DIY - Swap clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line for improved feel and control

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Calum

Hey guys, I saw someone reference this thread the other day and came looking. I think I've read everything but I've got a couple questions.

First though, anyone looking for the part might want to check rockauto.com. The prices discussed here seem amazing, but they would be basically impossible where I'm at. So rockauto.com is for those in area like me, not you guys in the US.

My question is why not remove the bolts before you remove the line? Of course you'll have to loosen the bango bolt slightly before you remove the bolts, but you might save some mess and some fluid this way.

Agree but it's all part of trying to KISS for the noobs. I thought about it but wanted to use the least number of words and steps possible. Def. kept it in mind as plan-B until I saw how little it already leaks. Really, next to nothing.

I also figured there is less chance of spillage if the main port is plugged before moving it.

Originally Posted by Calum

My other question was, has anyone tried bleeding the system by manually manipulating the piston on the slave... Yes I know how that sounds... But that's how I've bleed other clutch systems in the past, just hold it lower than the master and stroke it until you get all the air out.

I've done the same but don't recommend it for a first-timer. It's possible to give the master cylinder an air embolism with one quick dumbshit move. I think this would be just like running it dry.

[JB86'd]

So a thought I had while performing this mod, was concerning the bolt that connects the banjo fitting to the cylinder. It has a hole running through the threads which presumably needs to line up perfectly once tightened down. Do the threads on the bolt itself ensure this? What if you were to over-torque the bolt? Or am I wrong in assuming it needs to line up perfectly?

[Ozzman]

Originally Posted by JB86'd

So a thought I had while performing this mod, was concerning the bolt that connects the banjo fitting to the cylinder. It has a hole running through the threads which presumably needs to line up perfectly once tightened down. Do the threads on the bolt itself ensure this? What if you were to over-torque the bolt? Or am I wrong in assuming it needs to line up perfectly?

No they don't need to line up perfectly, the banjo fitting has channels cut inside to make sure it doesn't matter.

[Ultramaroon]

That was a good question so I dug up an example. Sometimes the groove is cut into the bolt. I haven't seen much of that. Most fittings are like this, where there's a cavity cut inside the fitting.

[Tcoat]

I want to do this mod but my car is an auto. Do I need any special parts?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I want to do this mod but my car is an auto. Do I need any special parts?

That depends. You should be ok if your car is at the stock ride height. If you're lowered and you drive on bad roads you will need special parts.

[Marx]

Thanks for the guide, this was super easy to follow - I think the trip to Autozone to pick up the part took longer than the actual swap did. I took out the clutch return spring a little while ago but I got used to the additional stiffness from that within a day. I'm super pleased with how the pedal feels with both mods done.

[Jonesy86]

All the Thanks goes to @Ultramaroon, for helping me do this to my car! The clutch is much more to my liking!

[cdrazic93]

what, no short guy tips? pft. some DIY thread. mods lets get this shut down, bein all tall-people biased n crap.

[JB86'd]

I was thinking today, and when bleeding the clutch, the first couple releases clearly spit out some air that I could hear and see. After that, the next few releases were smooth and just solid fluid coming out. Does that mean there is no air left in the system, or is it possible for there to be air further down the line? Clutch operation feels fine but just want to be sure I bled it all the way.

[Koa]

Originally Posted by JB86'd

I was thinking today, and when bleeding the clutch, the first couple releases clearly spit out some air that I could hear and see. After that, the next few releases were smooth and just solid fluid coming out. Does that mean there is no air left in the system, or is it possible for there to be air further down the line? Clutch operation feels fine but just want to be sure I bled it all the way.

If it's solid fluid coming out, and the reservoir is between the low and full line, then the clutch is bled

[Ultramaroon]

+1^ although it doesn't hurt to keep going as long as you watch the fluid level in the reservoir.

When we did @Jonesy86's last Tuesday I was amazed at how long it took to work out all the air. Definitely more than a few cycles but his clutch fluid looked contaminated. There may have been something else going on with his. I'll be checking it again this weekend.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

what, no short guy tips? pft. some DIY thread. mods lets get this shut down, bein all tall-people biased n crap.

Oops, my bad. For the short folks
http://www.target.com/p/fantasy-fiel...prodSlot=_1_24

[JB86'd]

@Ultramaroon @Koa I wasn't sure so I actually bled it on two seperate days and the fluid was solid the second time around, probly did 6 cycles the first day then 4 more to be sure a few days later. Thanks for the reassurance!