Car Sluggish After Engine Oil Change

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Jviveros2

Have several questions to answer to.

This isn't my first time doing an oil change on the car on my own, maybe my fourth.

I checked the dipstick when I did 5.5 quarts and it read right at the max level. I really don't remember why I used to do 6 before and it worked fine.

Some classification on the issue. I drove it around again yesterday and it's not just that it "stays" at the Rev. The pattern is shift up, revs go up by about 1-2k for 2 or 3 seconds, then they come down to what it should be and the car drives normally until I shift again.

Half quart one way or another isn't a problem. Unlike a conventional inline-four, the oil takes a while to dribble into the pan. Wait an extra long time before checking the dipstick. I think the owner's manual recommends five minutes.


If I read correctly, it sounds like your clutch may be slipping. Let's clarify that.

[Jviveros2]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Half quart one way or another isn't a problem. Unlike a conventional inline-four, the oil takes a while to dribble into the pan. Wait an extra long time before checking the dipstick. I think the owner's manual recommends five minutes.


If I read correctly, it sounds like your clutch may be slipping. Let's clarify that.

Yeah after narrowing down the symptoms it kinda seems it might be that. I'm a new manual driver so I'm sure I blew through that clutch way ahead of it's expected life

Any ideas on cost to repair?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Jviveros2

Yeah after narrowing down the symptoms it kinda seems it might be that. I'm a new manual driver so I'm sure I blew through that clutch way ahead of it's expected life

Any ideas on cost to repair?

As many of these threads that I've seen, I never paid attention to the cost. I've always done it myself. It should be a couple hundred for the parts and a few hours labor. It's one of the easiest ones out there to replace. Others will chime in with their experiences.


This is a good opportunity to learn how to upshift properly for long clutch life. The difference is easy to feel with a worn clutch. Work on timing your throttle application so you apply it immediately after your clutch is fully engaged. It's a common bad habit to step on the gas a tiny bit too soon. The sloppy clutch pedal on this car exacerbates the issue and is the main contributor to unnecessary clutch wear.

[EAGLE5]

700-1200 I think is a reasonable range for a new clutch and related work. More for a dealer. Less for an indie.

[Jviveros2]

Assuming it is the clutch that needs to be replaced, how many miles is it safe to drive it? I have a 100 round trip to work but I carpool so I can have someone else drive while I get the car fixed

[EAGLE5]

It will work until it doesn't work. You may also damage some extra parts and have it cost more to repair. It could also leave you stranded in a dangerous situation. There is no set miles. You could be one engagement away from permanent damage, it could already be damaged, or you could have plenty of time.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Jviveros2

Have several questions to answer to.

This isn't my first time doing an oil change on the car on my own, maybe my fourth.

I checked the dipstick when I did 5.5 quarts and it read right at the max level. I really don't remember why I used to do 6 before and it worked fine.

Some classification on the issue. I drove it around again yesterday and it's not just that it "stays" at the Rev. The pattern is shift up, revs go up by about 1-2k for 2 or 3 seconds, then they come down to what it should be and the car drives normally until I shift again.

Many ideas, none in order.

All these new cars have computers in them, have you tried pulling the battery for 15 minutes to force the car to re-learn how to run?

Rev's shouldn't be increasing during clutch-in moments, a bad clutch generally is less grabby, you'd notice the revs falling slower if you popped the clutch from gear to gear...

Have you checked your floor mats?

I'm also wondering about your technique. You shouldn't be on the gas in an upshift until the clutch is fully released, is that when the revs climb?

[qqzj]

Originally Posted by soundman98

You shouldn't be on the gas in an upshift until the clutch is fully released, is that when the revs climb?

According to my experience with the car in its stock form, one should apply gas a tiny bit earlier before clutch is fully released for up-shifting. Of course, if you can upshift really quickly, that is another story.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Jviveros2

Assuming it is the clutch that needs to be replaced, how many miles is it safe to drive it? I have a 100 round trip to work but I carpool so I can have someone else drive while I get the car fixed

You may wish to try this.

Warm up the engine, set the emergency brake, put the car in second gear, slowly let up on the clutch. If the engine is killed right away, you are most likely good for another trip to work and back. If the engine wants to keep running, I suggest you car pool it till you get the clutch fixed.


humfrz

[Flarpswitch]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Gad, you must be old -


humfrz

Old? Here is a little perspective that makes me feel old: When I was a kid there was an OLD lady in our apartment building that remembered the Lincoln assassination. I owned a 1959 Austin Mini 850 that, from unverified evidence, was the very first Mini imported into the US. My other Mini, an Austin Cooper S could outrun a Porsche in the turns. Another old favorite was my Austin-Healy Mk I Sprite (Bug-Eye). All my stuff was second hand, but new to me. I worked on the Datsun 240Z back when they were introduced. My BRZ is just like old times, without the puddle of oil in the driveway.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by qqzj

According to my experience with the car in its stock form, one should apply gas a tiny bit earlier before clutch is fully released for up-shifting. Of course, if you can upshift really quickly, that is another story.

"Stylistic Differences"

Unless I'm either trying to chirp the tires, or hitting an on ramp, i almost always sort of 'delay clutch out' where i hold the clutch in for an extra second to allow the revs to match before i clutch out in an upshift. But i do it mostly because i like the sound of freefalling revs...

In this case though, I'm trying to understand how the OP drives, as the impression of this thread is that the car is pseudo-rev-matching/rev-bumping by itself on upshifts in the time between letting off, clutch-in, shifting, and then clutch-out, which would be a weird engine management issue. Which is where my floor mat question came from.

[Jviveros2]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

700-1200 I think is a reasonable range for a new clutch and related work. More for a dealer. Less for an indie.

Yeah the dealership thought 2000 would be their price. I think it might end up being a worn clutch. I'm taking it to another shop Thursday to see what they say by driving it around and not just take my unexpert opinion.