10-18-2018, 02:07 PM | #127 |
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It can never cool the oil below your coolant temps (so on track, 200f maybe? and it will never get even close to that). In a way, that style of cooler is really more of an "oil warmer" for cold-weather climates, as it gets your oil up to temperature faster. But there's no way it can cool enough for serious track use.
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10-18-2018, 08:01 PM | #128 | |
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10-18-2018, 08:49 PM | #129 |
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Examples?
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Drive upgrades. Don't buy them.
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10-18-2018, 08:59 PM | #130 | |
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I've read that the stand alone oil cooler is "better" but haven't seen any evidence as to why. I've also read people praising the JR combo, so, yeah... |
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10-18-2018, 10:33 PM | #131 | |
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Cooling efficiency depends on a couple of factors and the biggies are 1. surface area and 2. temperature differences between the hot and cold places. Both the coolant and the oil share responsibility for cooling the engine, so with the heat exchanger you're dumping the cooling responsibility of the oil into the coolant and if you don't increase the efficiency of your radiator (make it bigger, add more fins, etc) you'll just max out the radiator faster under heavy load. Water/coolant can retain lots of heat but that's a double edged sword, and once you've started to boil your coolant you're going to have a bad day. If you go with the heat exchanger, you'll need to upgrade your radiator and fans to see any significant benefits at the track. With an air to oil OC, you've added extra surface area to cool stuff off and since the oil is hotter than the coolant, more heat is shed with the same radiator area (one of the reasons why OC's are smaller than radiators). The oil also retains less heat than water/coolant and changes temperature faster (lower specific heat and density). Adding a "normal" oil cooler is all you have to do to get the desired benefits. Both strategies can be viable as long as you are aware of your needs and the limitations of whichever you choose. If you don't want or need to upgrade your radiator, the air to oil coolers are the way to go; however, if you are in the process of replacing or upgrading your radiator anyway you could get away with a Forester type heat exchanger (the heat exchangers also help heat cold oil up to operating temps faster, whereas the other type will increase the warm up times). |
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10-18-2018, 11:00 PM | #132 | |
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I have the JR Dual-Rad, and it's awesome. But I think you're misunderstanding how it works. It is not an oil to water cooler in the traditional sense. Also, important to note that the oil temp reading using the OEM sensor is /after/ the cooler, not before the cooler, because the cooler runs off a sandwich plate. So, yeah, it's totally possible to see 200F on track with an oil cooler, but that is it's temp after cooling, it's peak temp (pre-cooling) is probably 50-80F higher than that. |
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10-19-2018, 04:00 AM | #133 |
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10-19-2018, 12:01 PM | #134 |
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Just checked those out. They have a combined one that uses one coolant feed to handle two separate oil cooler circuits so you can run a single unit in an out of the way place and cool engine oil and transmission fluid. That's /highly/ interesting to me, although I think I've already solved my cooling problems. |
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10-19-2018, 12:19 PM | #135 | |
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10-19-2018, 02:28 PM | #137 | |
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and edit: for DD, my air-to-oil OC keeps things around 180 in the summer, and dangerously low in the winter. i usually tie some cardboard over the rad to keep things warmer. |
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10-20-2018, 01:24 PM | #138 | ||
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10-20-2018, 01:24 PM | #139 |
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Funny to think of GM ownership being so costly.
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10-20-2018, 02:32 PM | #140 |
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Every water cooled Porsche as far as I know. You don't see them cooking their oil at the track!
The physics works in favor of water-to-oil coolers due to the way higher density of water compared to air.
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