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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 10-11-2018, 11:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by venturaII View Post
If you have time to put gas in your car, you can check tire pressure. It's literally a 3 minute job. Sorry for your wife's troubles and I wish her the best, but saying you haven't had time to check tire pressure at all in the last few weeks since having them rotated is a bit of a stretch. Hell - in the time it took to start/reply to this thread, you could've done it. It goes right along with making sure you still have oil in the motor, and it's a fundamental piece of info needed to diagnose your complaint.
Very happy to have read your wonderful comment. Maybe you do not work and have time, maybe you do but regardless, your comment was excellent and really helped a lot.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:37 AM   #16
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Very happy to have read your wonderful comment. Maybe you do not work and have time, maybe you do but regardless, your comment was excellent and really helped a lot.

My pleasure. Your effort into providing basic info is equally impressive.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:37 AM   #17
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I agree with everyone that I need to check my tire pressure. Regardless, last time the PSI was 40, I did not have this issue. Is it possible I waited to long to rotate the tires and it screwed up the belts inside the tire?
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:41 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
Its possible to rub depending on ride height. Look for marks or spots rubbed clean in the fender area

Do they show any weird wear? Or are one half significantly more worn then the other?

You could always change them back and see if it fixes itself.
The tires I have on now do not rub. I was asking about using a larger tire if I need to replace my current ones. The current tire I use leaves the edge of the rim exposed.

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Edit: The car is stock height
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:44 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riftur View Post
I agree with everyone that I need to check my tire pressure. Regardless, last time the PSI was 40, I did not have this issue. Is it possible I waited to long to rotate the tires and it screwed up the belts inside the tire?

Is it possible? Sure, but it's unlikely.


Tire rotation is around evening out wear because the stresses on each tire are slightly different, which means the wear on each tire is slightly different. Evening out wear helps improve tire lifespan.


But unless you have evidence of uneven wear, I wouldn't suspect that first. Pressures could cause odd behavior even if the wear is even.


I'd recommend you do the following:


1) Check your tire pressure in all 4 tires


2) If necessary, set it to 35psi cold pressure (as recommended in your door card)


3) Jack up your car, secure it on jack stands, and take off one of your wheels so that you can examine the tread with a tread-depth gauge. You can take tread depth readings in a straight line perpendicular to the wheel face, which will let you see if the wear is even on the inside, center, and outside tread.


4) If you removed a wheel, make sure to properly torque your lug nuts to spec using a torque wrench (89 lb/ft)
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:48 AM   #20
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Regarding tire size... what size are your wheels? Diameter, width, offset?


If they're 17x7 or 17x7.5 you can run 215 or 225 section width tires, if they're 17x8 or 17x8.5 you can run 225 or 235 section width tires, if they're 17x8.5 to 17x9.5 you can run 245 section width tires...


Offset + width determine if they'll rub


On the stock wheels (17x7 ET48) you should be running 215/45/17 tires, of which there are absolutely tons of options.


I would recommend buying high quality tires... don't cheap out on tires, they're perhaps the most important thing on your vehicle to maintain beyond basic oil change intervals and brake service.



EDIT: Let me be clear, if I was on a very limited budget I'd emphasize doing other maintenance work myself so I can afford high quality tires and installation at a tire shop over pretty much any other thing I could do to my car. It's that important, and is not even specific to this platform. You can buy 6x1quart cases of Mobil 1 at Costco or Sam's Club for under $30 and an oil filter at any parts store for less than $6. Doing it yourself, then is less than $40 for a high quality synthetic oil. By the same token any parts store will sell brake pads which are serviceable for less than $50 for a pair. The labor on these sorts of jobs is what is expensive, and is worth doing yourself if you are budget limited so you can afford to buy quality tires.


Personally, brand does matter when it comes to tires, not for scene points but because at the end of the day it's not brakes that stop your car, it's the tires, it's not your suspension that gets you through a turn or an evasive manuever or determines performance when it's raining or snowing, it's your tires. The tires are the most important part of a car after the engine, because that's all that holding you to the ground. I would only trust tires from Toyo, Yokohama, Michelin, Continental, Bridgestone, or Kumho personally. There may be other acceptable brands, but whatever the cheapest option at Walmart or your local Discount Tire is, that's not what I'd put on my car. Don't bet your life on Chinese rubber.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:51 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Riftur View Post
I am thinking I waited to long to have the tires rotated which messed up the tire if thats possible.
Not possible. Rotation is IMO optional, and is only to even out wear because fronts and rears wear at a different rate.

If you do it at the right time, only should have to rotate tires *once* in their lifetime. Basically, when the *average* front and rear wear is halfway to the indicators, rotate.

One thing that occurs to me: If pressures are different between left and right rear tires, the diff will act funny and you'll get a slight pull on accel and on decel. So, again, check pressures before you decide anything is really wrong with the tires.

Quote:
Question, I have Rays Gram Lights 57xtreme's 17 inch. The current tires I have do not fit perfectly (245/40-17).
Will a slightly larger tire rub when I turn the steering wheel?
Looks like a good fit to me. 245/40-17 on 17x9? Legit...
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:55 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Tristor View Post
Is it possible? Sure, but it's unlikely.


Tire rotation is around evening out wear because the stresses on each tire are slightly different, which means the wear on each tire is slightly different. Evening out wear helps improve tire lifespan.


But unless you have evidence of uneven wear, I wouldn't suspect that first. Pressures could cause odd behavior even if the wear is even.


I'd recommend you do the following:


1) Check your tire pressure in all 4 tires


2) If necessary, set it to 35psi cold pressure (as recommended in your door card)


3) Jack up your car, secure it on jack stands, and take off one of your wheels so that you can examine the tread with a tread-depth gauge. You can take tread depth readings in a straight line perpendicular to the wheel face, which will let you see if the wear is even on the inside, center, and outside tread.


4) If you removed a wheel, make sure to properly torque your lug nuts to spec using a torque wrench (89 lb/ft)
Thank you for giving me actual advice and not "You did not check you tire pressure!"

So I just checked the pressure on my tires and they were all 35-37. They are all now at 35 PSI.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:57 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Tristor View Post
Regarding tire size... what size are your wheels? Diameter, width, offset?


If they're 17x7 or 17x7.5 you can run 215 or 225 section width tires, if they're 17x8 or 17x8.5 you can run 225 or 235 section width tires, if they're 17x8.5 to 17x9.5 you can run 245 section width tires...


Offset + width determine if they'll rub


On the stock wheels (17x7 ET48) you should be running 215/45/17 tires, of which there are absolutely tons of options.


I would recommend buying high quality tires... don't cheap out on tires, they're perhaps the most important thing on your vehicle to maintain beyond basic oil change intervals and brake service.



EDIT: Let me be clear, if I was on a very limited budget I'd emphasize doing other maintenance work myself so I can afford high quality tires and installation at a tire shop over pretty much any other thing I could do to my car. It's that important, and is not even specific to this platform. You can buy 6x1quart cases of Mobil 1 at Costco or Sam's Club for under $30 and an oil filter at any parts store for less than $6. Doing it yourself, then is less than $40 for a high quality synthetic oil. By the same token any parts store will sell brake pads which are serviceable for less than $50 for a pair. The labor on these sorts of jobs is what is expensive, and is worth doing yourself if you are budget limited so you can afford to buy quality tires.


Personally, brand does matter when it comes to tires, not for scene points but because at the end of the day it's not brakes that stop your car, it's the tires, it's not your suspension that gets you through a turn or an evasive manuever or determines performance when it's raining or snowing, it's your tires. The tires are the most important part of a car after the engine, because that's all that holding you to the ground. I would only trust tires from Toyo, Yokohama, Michelin, Continental, Bridgestone, or Kumho personally. There may be other acceptable brands, but whatever the cheapest option at Walmart or your local Discount Tire is, that's not what I'd put on my car. Don't bet your life on Chinese rubber.

Rays Gram Lights 57Xtreme
17x9 +40
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:00 PM   #24
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I forgot how nice people are on this site when you ask a question. Fun times. lol
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:07 PM   #25
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On 17x9 wheels you should be running 245/40/17 tires. Different make/models of tires are slightly different measured width on rim even with the same rated section width, but they shouldn't rub. Some 245s do rub on stock suspension, but most don't. If you can add some mild negative camber it'll prevent any rubbing though. +38-+40 ET is fine for that width of wheel though, so you should be fine.

@Leonardo may have better advice, he's a tire-sizing guru.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:31 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Riftur View Post
The tires I have on now do not rub. I was asking about using a larger tire if I need to replace my current ones. The current tire I use leaves the edge of the rim exposed.

Attachment 171498

Edit: The car is stock height
Check to see if the fronts have significantly less tread then the rears. You said it had been a while before rotating so it's possible. Multiple users on the forum (myself included) have had issues with TC when replacing only 2 tires. We think the difference may screw with the electronics somehow.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:42 PM   #27
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Thanks for the vote of confidence! @Tristor


OP, Rotating your tires is not needed. I was staggered for a few years and never rotated mine. My alignment was good, so my tire wear was very even.

In my honest & humble opinion, you have inexpensive all season tires that are better suited for a non-performance car.

I would suggest getting a quality 300 UTQG tire. (280-320 UTQG is a great compromise between stickiness and tire life)

Or, if you must have A/S tires, get Michelin A/S3 tires.

You will be able to tell the difference. Better tires improve: handling, braking, road noise, comfort, preciseness of steering, cornering confidence, and generally look better. ( not that looking better is very important)

245/40/17 fits great on a 17x9 +40. Though, your tire will be close to the spring perch in the front if you lower your car with springs.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:42 PM   #28
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They are all facing the right direction.
So, are they directional?

How were they rotated (front to rear or crossed)?


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