05-14-2018, 04:39 PM | #43 |
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If it an exceptional hot summer this year like when lived there in 2013, you'll definitely need the oil cooler.
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05-14-2018, 04:56 PM | #44 | |
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Definitely doing the oil cooler. |
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05-14-2018, 07:15 PM | #45 |
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I remember that summer well too.
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05-14-2018, 07:27 PM | #46 |
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Oil cooler has been ordered from CSG. Let's see if I can get it installed before my next track day. I might have to ping a few buddies with experience locally because I'd like to not mess up my bumper cover taking it off and on. I know there's some tricky clips taking it off that determine if it ever aligns right again.
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05-20-2018, 11:11 PM | #47 |
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Alright, I ordered a bunch of things last week and I'm anxiously waiting for everything to arrive because my next track day is on the 26th. I'd really like to get everything installed before I hit the track again, but I don't think it's going to happen so my girl may have to give me one more track performance without an oil cooler. Here's what I went ahead and ordered:
I've received the Stark transmission cooler, Samco radiator hoses, APR coolant plate, my AMSoil fluids, and all of the tools. I'm just waiting on the dual-rad and ATF to show up now. I'm hoping I can get everything in by Thursday night. Last edited by Tristor; 05-21-2018 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Just got my Stark Performance AT Cooler + Samco hoses in |
05-26-2018, 02:36 PM | #48 |
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Well I went to the track this morning, but high oil temps prevented me from completing a full session. I set up the dashboard on Harry’s LapTimer to give me orange when oil temp was over 250F, red when it was over 260F. I got 3 hot laps in after warmup before I hit 262F. I did a cooldown lap and parked it in the pits. After it fell to 190F I went back out and got only 4 more laps being gentle before it hit 259F. After discussion with my instructor and a review of my data logs we decided to call it quits. Without an oil cooler this car just cannot stand up to Texas summers.
Oil cooler shipped today after a few weeks back ordered and is arriving on Wednesday, but I’m going to be unable to install it for a month or go back to the track until July. I will be on hiatus in the meantime. Word to the wise, get an oil cooler if you plan to go on track. Last edited by Tristor; 05-27-2018 at 12:09 PM. |
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05-26-2018, 08:51 PM | #49 | |
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What was the ambient temp?
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05-26-2018, 10:08 PM | #50 |
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When I got to the track it was early, but my session wasn't starting until 10:30AM. By that time it had gotten to 92F outside, and by the end of the 3 laps it'd risen to 94F. By the time I left the track and headed home is was up to 95F. High today is 97F. Ambient last session was 82F and I peaked 258F on the oil temp, average of 256F. If I'd done ~30 laps like before, I probably would have seen peaks well into the 270s the way it was behaving, which is critical imo. I wasn't willing to risk a rod bearing failure. |
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05-27-2018, 11:28 AM | #51 |
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You're definitely going to need the oil cooler there for summer running. I'm going to have to keep this in mind if I start tracking mine.
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The Following User Says Thank You to nitro_alltrac For This Useful Post: | Tristor (05-27-2018) |
05-31-2018, 02:37 PM | #52 |
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Cool, my Jackson Racing Dual-Rad Oil Cooler arrived today and I inspected it. It looks really good, and I can't wait to install it. I've got to do some work travel first though, so I'm going on a short hiatus and then will get to wrenching when I return.
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07-02-2018, 03:47 PM | #53 |
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So those wondering where I went, I'm not dead. I was in Europe. I got to go to a cool car show in Prague, watch Le Mans in a bar with some other blokes who don't care about soccer, and other fun stuff. I'm back as of this weekend and I already got cracking on the car putting in a Perrin inlet tube.
It's going to be a multiple day job to get all the cooling mods done and a full fluid swap, so I'm hoping I can do it all this upcoming weekend to get myself back on track as soon as I can. Every day has been over 100F since I've been back, so the cooling mods are now critically essential. |
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07-23-2018, 11:09 PM | #54 |
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Hottest week of the year, and this is the week my housemate was out so I could use the whole garage. I started on Sunday and have been working on getting things installed. Decided to call it a night early today because I had a bit of a pickle that took an hour of cursing and the help of a neighbor to get out of, but I've got all the disassembly done and I'm ready to start putting in the dual-rad tomorrow afternoon and get everything back together. I'm somewhat short on garage time, so I'm not going to do the transmission cooler right now, just the dual rad and the upgraded radiator hoses and fluids. I'll do the transmission cooler at a later date, probably when I get a windshield washer relocation kit and some brake ducts for the other side. I'm making a list of things I wish I had that would have made this much faster/more efficient. #1 is getting some sort of lift or quickjack, doing jacks and stands takes forever.
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07-26-2018, 01:13 AM | #55 |
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Alright, all done and everything is back together. Just finished up a test drive and things are great. The engine oil cooler works like a champ and most importantly I have no leaks. Calling it a night. I'll post some pictures and what-not in the thread some time tomorrow with some more details.
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07-27-2018, 11:33 AM | #56 |
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Alright, so I'm a day late and a dollar short. That's been happening a lot lately. So without further ado, here's the install photos I took and a bit about where I messed up along the way.
What I was installing: * Jackson Racing Dual-Rad Oil Cooler * Samco Radiator Hoses * Perrin Inlet Hose * APR Carbon Fiber Cooling Plate Tools I ended up buying during install: * Hose Clamp Pliers * 27mm deep socket NON IMPACT * 27mm combination wrench (didn't use this) * Aviation straight snips * A set of hose picks * A better floor jack * A replacement 10mm socket for the one I dropped that landed on my garage floor but I don't know where it went * A long tipped funnel for oil Parts I ended up buying during install: * Replacement hose clamps for those that came with the Perrin Inlet Tube, because they were too small :/ * Constant pressure hose clamps for radiator hose to replace stock spring-type hose clamps * Teflon/PTFE thread tape (can never find the roll) * Subaru Part# 72441SA000 heater cock because I broke it like an idiot Overall Impressions of the Install: Honestly, this was super time-consuming, but that was because I was working slow and it was the hottest week on record in San Antonio this week, hitting 110F one day. I could only stand being outside for 4-5 hours a day, and a few hours in the evening. You will be taking apart almost the entire front end of your vehicle as part of this install, but most of it is just 10mm bolts and pop clips, so it's not that big of a deal. Out of everything I did, there were only 2 hard parts, getting the new Jackson Racing Dual-Rad properly into place by routing the -10AN fitting at the top around the AC condenser piping, and dealing with the fucking hose clamps that the factory puts on. I now officially hate those things. Other than that, the install was pretty straightforward. The instructions shipped with the unit were nearly perfect, only failing to mention a few gotchas along the way that I figured out without too much worry. Things would have gone more smoothly on reassembly if I'd taken more and better pictures, because after 4 days of working on it in the Texas heat my brain was a bit addled and I had to disassemble and reassemble some of the front parts multiple times to remember what order everything went back in. Don't do what I did and strip the heads out of on the heater cock that acts as an air bleeder for the coolant system. Learn from my mistake, only cycle the air bleeder to the coolant system a couple of times and then just run the engine with the radiator cap off to let the rest of the air out. The radiator filler neck is the highest point in the system so air will come out there, if necessary you can raise the front of the vehicle higher with jackstands by one notch compared to the rear to help. Alright, now on to a ton of pictures with short captions: First you get your bumper off, and drain your engine oil Then drain your coolant Then remove the air intake system Then remove the factory radiator This is the huge amount of plastic components that get taken out that have to go back in, plus the one metal component as the radiator support bracket These you will learn to hate as I do, the factory spring-type hose clamps These constant pressure hose clamps are awesome, and provide constant pressure at all points just like the factory clamps but can be loosened and held loose so you can move them with your fingers and only tighten once they're in position Next you're going to get your Jackson Racing Dual-Rad into place. This is going to be a bit challenging because you need to get this -10AN fitting on the top through the A/C piping to the condenser and bend the piping gently with your fingers around it so it doesn't touch and stays in place. See how the A/C pipe has been bent Once you've done that your Jackson-Racing Dual-Rad radiator is in place Now you start putting everything else back together. You're going to soon realize that everything does and will fit, but it's a tight fit all the way. Almost there The lower radiator hose MUST use the factory spring-type hose clamps on both the radiator and engine side in order to clearance correctly. You also must ensure that the hose clamps are clocked to the correct position Even though the radiator is larger, on the other side there's still plenty of space because it uses more of the bumper well but leaves the engine bay space roughly the same overall Once you get the airbox in, you'll see what sort of tight fit there is there. Also a very tight fit around the oil cap. I ended up having to reclock the sandwich plate and -10AN fittings on it after I realized my airbox wouldn't fit, then reclocking again with the airbox in place once I realized I couldn't open the oil cap all the way to get oil into place. Fun story, none of my 5 funnels would fit and I had to go buy a long-tipped funnel to get oil into it With the airbox in and the Perrin Inlet Hose attached you'll see that you need to clock it to avoid interference with the belt. It's very tight fit as well. You can see where I didn't use the factory hose clamps on the top part You've got everything in the engine bay. Phew! That was a tight fit. Now it's time to fill it with fluids, get all the air out, and leak test. If that goes well you can put the front end back together. Bumper going back on All done except to put wheels on it and lower it back to the ground for a test drive. Remember to torque your lug nuts properly! I didn't take too many pictures, I was too busy trying to get it done over the course of 4 days in the Texas heat. Hope you enjoyed the update. Now for a light cruise on Saturday and to schedule my next track day. So far, I've beat on it a bit yesterday to test it out and the oil cooler works AWESOME. Even after aggressive driving followed by standstill traffic, the temps never got above 200F for the oil or 210F for the coolant in 103F weather. Under hard driving I'd see oil temps spike up to 200F, but pull down quickly, it's trying hard to keep oil right around 185-190F. I can't wait to pull data logs after a full track day. |
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