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01-27-2014, 09:44 PM | #1 |
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Whiteline KCA416 or Crash Bolt for slotted upper strut?
I have the RCE Tarmac 0's and I had the Whiteline KCA416 16mm camber bolts before I put the coils on. With the top hole being slotted, will I be able to get more camber out of a 14mm crash bolt or with the 16mm eccentric bolt? My goal is -2 in the front with stock tops. Stock bolt is still in the lower hole with the Whiteline's in the upper.
I read mixed answers on another thread about the slotted upper holes. Just looking to see if anyone can clarify and if -2 is doable with bolts + slotted uppers. |
01-28-2014, 04:08 PM | #2 |
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Anyone happen to know the answer or is this a trial I'm going to have to figure out with crash bolts myself at an alignment shop?
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01-28-2014, 04:42 PM | #3 |
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01-28-2014, 05:02 PM | #4 | |
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01-28-2014, 07:48 PM | #5 |
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OEM quality = doesn't stretch, doesn't corrode easily and can be safely torqued much more.
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01-28-2014, 08:09 PM | #6 | |
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01-28-2014, 08:28 PM | #7 |
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I have the tarmac 0 with completely stock bolts/stock top hat and am able to get -2.0 degrees of camber out of it. I even provided the whiteline bolts to the alignment shop to install, but they didn't need it. I'm lowered about 1.5 inches.
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01-28-2014, 08:31 PM | #8 |
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The stock 16mm bolt on top? If that's the case, I'm selling the Whitelines. Not getting any slip with the lobe.
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01-28-2014, 08:33 PM | #9 |
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01-28-2014, 08:37 PM | #10 |
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Yeah, stock is 16mm. Might as well get some money for the whitelines! Had them before the slotted struts on the Tarmac 0's. Thanks man. I'm gonna push on that rotor and tighten up the stocks again. -2 should be reachable. I'm lowered about as much as you. Considering removing the helper spring to drop a tad more to close the small gap even more.
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01-28-2014, 08:48 PM | #11 | |
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01-28-2014, 08:53 PM | #12 |
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Stock top hats and crash bolts in the upper slot on my Tarmac 2s and I got -2.0 up front
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01-28-2014, 10:19 PM | #13 |
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01-28-2014, 11:14 PM | #14 | |
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@hanabie seems to have had success with eccentric bolts.
Quote:
I advise against OEM camber bolts in slotted holes. I torqued the 14mm camber bolt to 114 ft-lbs spec and it slipped in the slot to zero/positive camber as evidenced by the slide marks on the strut (ignore the bolt which I readjusted back to negative): Some people doubt I set it for negative camber in the first place and bolted it in for positive camber from the start. If so, how did those slide marks get there? Then there are people who doubt I bolted it to 114 ft-lbs, but I had to use a breaker bar to untorque the already slipped bolt because it was on so tight. Below, you can compare the mark left by my slipped 14mm camber bolt in the positive position with the mark left by 16mm stock bolt secured in the negative position. Those are "bite marks" from being properly torqued to 114 ft-lbs. Not just one but two, including the mark left by the slipped bolt at 114 ft-lbs. If my camber bolt slipped because I just hand snugged it the first time (I usually hand snug before I bust out my big ass torque wrench), then you wouldn't be seeing two bite marks. Just one.
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Last edited by switchlanez; 01-28-2014 at 11:30 PM. |
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