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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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07-11-2014, 12:14 AM | #1 |
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Perrin Reverse Lockout Ring Installation and Review!
Howdy Ladies and Gentlemen!
The following is my Installation guide and Review of the Perrin Reverse Lockout Ring! This will be a pretty short install and review as this is not a difficult or complex install. The Prep! The kit comes with Instructions, Grease and of course the Lockout Ring. The Tools you will need are:
The Installation! The installation of this Lockout Ring is very simple and not difficult at all. On my usual difficulty scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being stupid easy and 5 being stupid hard. I give this install a 1.5 and only because the final adjustment of the ring is a bit of a pain, but I will get to that later. Start by removing the Shift knob by turning Counter-Clockwise (or Anti-Clockwise for you Europeans out there.) Remove the shifter boot and surrounding bezel. I find the easiest way to do this is to dig my fingers in under the edge of the shift boot and pulling up. Unplug the mode switches and toss the whole thing in your backseat for now. Place your transmission in a REVERSE gear...this will make a later step easier. DO NOT take the vehicle out of reverse gear during the installation! Take your 3/32" punch and put it in the hole in the front of the stock lockout ring and up against the roll pin. Take your mallet and hit the punch towards the front of the car. You are trying to push out the roll pin through the hole and out the front side of the lockout ring. This step takes a discerning amount of force. You need to hit it pretty hard to get it to move, but you run the risk of missing and smashing your dash with a large mallet. Keep hitting the punch until the roll pin has ether fallen out the other side or your punch bottoms out. If your punch isn't long enough to punch the pin completely out the other side then punch it as far as you can and take a pair of pliers and twist and pull the roll pin completely out the other side. Remove the old lockout ring and clean all the old grease off the shift lever! Put on rubber gloves and grab the packet of grease supplied with the new lockout ring. Put that shit on your finger and spread it all over the plastic part of the shifter shaft, be liberal. (Oh yes...rub that shaft) Next do the exact same thing but rub it all over the inside of the Perrin Reverse Lockout Ring especially where the rubber o-rings are but be careful not to displace the o-rings. Then slide the ring over the shaft. (God I can't stop with the innuendo's) The next part is a bit tricky but I found the easiest way to do this was the following. I couldn't take pictures of part of it because I didn't have enough hands. Take a paperclip and bend it, then place it in the back side of the lockout ring to align the hole in the lockout ring with the hole in the reverse lockout cable inside the shifter. Then take the roll pin you removed previously and place it in the hole in the front of the lockout ring and tap the roll pin into the hole as far as you can. Until you run the risk of marring the surface of your lockout ring, this should be far enough to engage the reverse lockout cable on the inside of the shifter. Take your 3/32" punch and then punch the roll pin in the rest of the way until it's basically in the very middle of the lockout ring. You may now take your vehicle out of reverse Now you need to adjust the position of the roll pin. I found a carpenters hammer worked better for this because it's smaller. The amount of force needed to insert the roll pin cause the reverse lockout cable in the shifter to bind from rubbing. Take your 3/32" punch and place it in the back side of the shifter, then tap the roll pin back the other way a few times, take your time and do it slowly. If you go to much you risk making the cable bind in the other direction. Check to see if the lockout ring still binds after each set of taps, if it doesn't you're good if it does, keep tapping and checking until it doesn't. Once you have done this, reinstall your shifter boot and bezel, don't forget to reconnect your mode switches. Reinstall your shifter knob. You're done!! Huzzah! Now revel in your massive life achievements! The Review!! The manufacturing quality of the lockout ring is superb, it's smooth, there are no surface defects and the finish is impeccable. Unfortunately however the engineering of the piece is a little lacking, the lockout ring's tolerances on the shaft of the shifter are a little tight, and even with proper adjustment the lockout ring doesn't quite slide as smoothly as it should up and down. The bevel on the bottom of the ring is also too small, the shift boot is constantly sliding downwards and falling off the lockout ring, to the point of I have given up on fixing it. However my biggest disappointment was the reuse of the stock roll pin. I personally think it was a huge mistake on Perrin's behalf to reuse the stock roll pin, especially because before I installed the Perrin Lockout Ring on my car I had installed the RacesEng lockout ring on a friends car. The RacesEng lockout ring does away with the stock roll pin and uses a 3mm Allen Bolt which threads into the lockout ring. It requires no adjustment to prevent binding and the install takes far less than half the time of pounding the roll pin back in and adjusting as the Perrin does. The Conclusion! The install was pretty easy like I said, I give it a 1.5 on the difficulty scale. The trickiest part being adjusting the roll pin after hammering it back in. This is an easy mod that anyone can do after a quick and cheap run to Harbor Freight if you don't have the right tools. Unfortunately other parts of the ring do not score highly on my ranking. The actual fitment is lacking, the ring is too tight on the shaft and even when properly greased doesn't slide smoothly. The bevel on the bottom of the ring meant to hold the boot is too short and too small. It doesn't hold up the boot like it should and unfortunately the boot slips down over the bevel constantly resulting in a look that is unfinished and lazy. The roll pin, it is the bane of my existence. As if getting it out wasn't nerve wracking enough, getting it back in is even worse and more of a pain in the ass than removing it. Perrin should have taken the time to come up with an easier solution like RacesEng did. The real killer however when you account for all these things is the price. The Perrin Lockout Ring is $99, and while the manufacturing on the ring itself certainly holds up to the price. The engineering does not, especially when you consider the Perrin Ring is $20 MORE than the RacesEng ring which is priced at $79. The RacesEng ring slides smoothly on the shifter shaft, the bevel on the bottom holds the shifter boot securely and it uses an allen bolt to install onto the shifter which is 100 times easier that trying to slam the stock roll pin back in. So in conclusion, it pains me but unfortunately I cannot rate the Perrin Lockout Ring very highly. I have to give it a 2.5 out of 5 on my rating scale because unfortunately it doesn't live up to the high standards I hold Perrin to. The finish is perfect, but the fitment and installation are not up to par. Spend $20 less and get the RacesEng Lockout Ring. Thanks for reading! -Trev A.K.A Sony P.S. Look out for my Perrin Oil Cooler Kit review coming soon!
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07-11-2014, 08:37 AM | #2 |
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$100!!??!? What does this thing do?
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07-11-2014, 08:53 AM | #3 |
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07-11-2014, 09:58 AM | #4 |
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It's just an interior cosmetic modification. It replaces the ugly plastic lockout ring with a CNC Machined Billet Aluminum piece. The lockout ring on MT cars allows you to select reverse gear when you pull up on it.
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07-11-2014, 10:42 AM | #5 |
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I am aware of the function this serves, I touch my 'ugly plastic lockout ring' everyday, I am in disbelief that someone would pay $100 for a piece that is heavier, has a big company logo on it and doesn't match the interior colors.
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07-11-2014, 11:01 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
I have a lot of Perrin parts on my car and the stock piece doesn't feel very substantial so I swapped it out. I bought it at the same time I bought my Perrin Oil Cooler and $100 isn't all that terribly much to me (I realize that is a somewhat pompous thing to say,) but I expected the quality of the piece to be better than it was. In all honesty, it's billet aluminum so it's really not any heavier than the stock piece. Plus more weight is actually an advantage on the shift lever as it allows more smooth and easier shifts, otherwise why would everyone be installing heavier shift knobs? Ether way it's not your place to tell other people how to spend their money. So unless you have constructive criticism or a real question about the piece instead of just defaming my personal taste in aftermarket parts, why don't you just show yourself out of my thread and leave space for people who actually have legitimate comments and questions.
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07-11-2014, 02:30 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I offered both criticism and asked questions....so no harm there. As for the color match, yes the new ring is 'BLACK' and the interior is a very very dark grey, see below: I appreciate the time you took to do this review, my only bash was on the product. If you enjoy it, thats all that matters. Thank you for the review as this is a product I would skip over with 100 bucks in hand, I would lean more towards their exhaust or intake (which I think you did a decent review of). Take care - from a fellow New Englander |
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07-11-2014, 06:54 PM | #8 |
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Sony,
Thanks for your honest reviews, as always. We designed the reverse lockout to be tight on the shaft on purpose, with the two O rings, our reverse lockout will never rattle. With the included lube, it will operate smoothly, but will require a tiny bit more effort to move than the factory lockout, but it shouldn't be too hard. This is the first time I've heard that the lockout isn't holding the boot correctly, you have the stock boot right? Maybe your boot got stretched out somehow? We decided to re use the factory roll pin for a few reasons. The roll pin is designed to be re used, and with the right tools, it is easy to re install to the reverse lockout. It might take a little longer to punch a pin in, but normally it would take a few minutes to get right, compared to maybe a minute if it was a threaded screw. All you should need to do is push the pin in a little before putting it on the shifter, then when it's on, line it up and you're done after pushing it in all the way. We can do the install here in less than 10 minutes. Another reason was because we wanted to keep the overall shape of the reverse lockout similar to our STI version. We had to make the top lip a little thicker for the roll pin hole in the BRZ. But to make it work with a threaded screw, we would have had to make it even thicker, or extended the top and made the rest of it shorter, so it wouldn't fit your fingers very well. Finally, It makes the finish smoother having the roll pin. Without having an allen head or screw, there's nothing to catch your fingers on. I hope that helps explain why we designed the reverse lockout the way we did. If anyone has any questions, let me know. |
07-12-2014, 12:11 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
The shaft fitment I am not too worried about, I just wish it was slightly looser so it slid more easily. Not so much that it rattled but just a couple more thousandths so that it would slide without being so stiff. I do however appreciate that this ring has o-rings and will never rattle. I do have the stock boot, it shouldn't be stretched out as I've always been super careful when removing it. This never happened with the stock reverse ring so I cannot tell the cause for sure but the stock ring has a much larger bevel on the bottom of it so I think it has something to do with that. I believe a few other people have posted the same issue on the forums but I am not sure I will have to search. The roll pin... I hate to keep bringing up competitors but it's the only example I have. RacesEng's allen head screw recesses into the back of their Reverse Ring so there is nothing sticking out and there is no hole at all in the front. The screw is tiny and is not much larger than the roll pin. In fact I believe you guys could easily find a headless allen screw that would suit the job even better. A small but long grub/set screw would do the job perfectly. In all honesty I just really hate that roll pin. -Sony
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07-12-2014, 03:05 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ghlight=rattle |
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07-12-2014, 08:15 PM | #12 |
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Nice review but I don't really see the point of spending 100 bucks on that... The stock one works fine for me anyways... Does it feel better in your hands?
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07-13-2014, 10:37 AM | #13 |
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It does, it's a far more substantial piece and it doesn't rattle. It's also smoother and looks nicer in my opinion.
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07-14-2014, 06:36 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Sony, The O rings will break in, after a little while, it'll get a little better. For the boot, again, that is really strange, I told Jeff about it, and he'll look into it. The bevel on our reverse lockout shouldn't really be much different than the factory one. For the pin, we probably could make it work with an allen, but we'd have to change the design of it, which would make the shape much different than the shape it is now, making the spot where your fingers go smaller, which would kind of pinch them when you're using it. We've though about it though, for sure! Our STI reverse lockout has a screw, because it can fit in the top portion because the way the reverse lockout fits on the factory shifter, and it's out of the way. In the BRZ, the whole reverse lockout sits lower, so the thread would have to go through the top ring for us to keep the same shape, so we'd have to make that part a little fatter for it to get right. But in the end, the pin is just something you will have to deal with just during the install, and it may take a few minutes longer, but at least you have to do it just once! |
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