Oil coolers for DD/HDPE cars...

[ZionsWrath]

OP, I live in the Northeast and initially my BRZ was my daily. Once I put AP racing brakes and Jackson racing oil cooler, and some suspension parts I realized it was just not feasible as a daily driver.


With the oil cooler it never got up to temp on the street unless I drove it really hard. And it would cool off so fast even if I did. I would drive one gear lower than normal just to keep RPM up and some heat in the oil. And running A/C in the summer also blew air over my cooler and cooled oil. Even with a cardboard over it was still running low temps on the street.


Anyway, I was lucky enough to have a second car so I just retired the BRZ from DD use and only used it if I wanted to go for spirited drives and track days.


I looked into, but never did, some people put a valve in line with the oil cooler and can block off flow that way when they don't want to use it. Also Jackson racing came out with the radiator+oil cooler combo later on which I think would have been better for my useage. That is probably something you should look into. And maybe a grill block if you see really low temps.

[prandelia]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

Based on what I've seen in my data logs, this seems like an ideal setup for a pure track car.

Even with 93/100 octane mix and a conservative tune, I was still seeing moderate detonation in 80-100F ambient temps, especially once IATs crested 100 F. Slightly rich AFR will help a bit with this

Keeping oil temps as low as possible is important for pressure reasons. I would think sub-230 should really be the goal, with maybe mid/high 230's as maybe a single max data point in the hottest ambient temps.

A 5-50 weight oil would help with pressure and works if the car is only driven on track. For a car that sees street usage, will have to balance cold start wear vs. track pressures.

I'd like to know what they did for header setup and heat shielding to prevent the coil packs from nuking? Did you hear anything along those lines?

I have no clue how you can drive this car for 25 hours without getting misfires. My AFR's aren't too outrageous, and on E85 is about 108 Octane. Perhaps my misfires are a function of still being too aggressive on the tune for power. My car is a super-sprint car, so need every last pony I can get.....hmmmm

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by TommyW

From the Toyota Endurance team Re longevity on the track

Oil cooler
100 Octane
5-50
Conservative AFR
Oil temp sub 240

Their E2/ST4 spec sheet looked like they dyno'd at @ 193whp. I may have referenced the wrong one but it looks like that's what they reported. It's difficult to believe they're running on 100 Octane. Did you assume this or did they state this? The reason for my inquiry is:

My T4 car has a 55mm restrictor plate on stock engine with an OEM header (no cat) and it very safely made 188whp on 92 octane. Without the restrictor I would easily make 195+ on pump gas with a safe tune for endurance racing. It seems like a waste of money to run 100 octane ($13/gallon) if making the same power you would on pump gas.

The only thing I can think of that would justify the 4x extra fuel cost is that they tuned lean for economy like 13.5:1. Considering how cold it was there and they were still close to 240f with a cooler suggests they were running lean because on a 90+ day I run 240-250f oil temps while in a draft but with 12.5:1 afr. I definitely would like to know more. <240f temps with 50wt oil must have had plenty of oil pressure for sure, >10psi/1k rpms I imagine.

Originally Posted by prandelia

I'd like to know what they did for header setup and heat shielding to prevent the coil packs from nuking? Did you hear anything along those lines?

I have no clue how you can drive this car for 25 hours without getting misfires. My AFR's aren't too outrageous, and on E85 is about 108 Octane. Perhaps my misfires are a function of still being too aggressive on the tune for power. My car is a super-sprint car, so need every last pony I can get.....hmmmm

My first thought was how they can drive this car for this long without cooking the diff fluid. Then I remembered how cold it is a thunderhill in December and the fact it rained for 10+ hours of that race.

With that being said, they may have done what I did on my 2013 FRS - change out the harness and coil packs to 2015 parts. I also have heat shields in place. While the car is in motion there's little heat soak on those coils due to how much air is flowing through the engine bay (and how cold that air was). The heat soak that's the most harmful is when the car is parked; when cars with headers (no shields) are run hard on a hot day then parked with the hood closed. After I come off track I leave the fans running for 10 minutes and pop the hood as well.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Their E2/ST4 spec sheet looked like they dyno'd at @ 193whp. I may have referenced the wrong one but it looks like that's what they reported. It's difficult to believe they're running on 100 Octane. Did you assume this or did they state this?






.

To reiterate my conversation

From the Toyota Endurance team Re longevity on the track

Oil cooler
100 Octane
5-50
Conservative AFR
Oil temp sub 240

So no, this wasn't an assumption. I'm sure there are several unmentioned factors however this was their response.

[prandelia]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Their E2/ST4 spec sheet looked like they dyno'd at @ 193whp. I may have referenced the wrong one but it looks like that's what they reported. It's difficult to believe they're running on 100 Octane. Did you assume this or did they state this? The reason for my inquiry is:

My T4 car has a 55mm restrictor plate on stock engine with an OEM header (no cat) and it very safely made 188whp on 92 octane. Without the restrictor I would easily make 195+ on pump gas with a safe tune for endurance racing. It seems like a waste of money to run 100 octane ($13/gallon) if making the same power you would on pump gas.

The only thing I can think of that would justify the 4x extra fuel cost is that they tuned lean for economy like 13.5:1. Considering how cold it was there and they were still close to 240f with a cooler suggests they were running lean because on a 90+ day I run 240-250f oil temps while in a draft but with 12.5:1 afr. I definitely would like to know more. <240f temps with 50wt oil must have had plenty of oil pressure for sure, >10psi/1k rpms I imagine.



My first thought was how they can drive this car for this long without cooking the diff fluid. Then I remembered how cold it is a thunderhill in December and the fact it rained for 10+ hours of that race.

With that being said, they may have done what I did on my 2013 FRS - change out the harness and coil packs to 2015 parts. I also have heat shields in place. While the car is in motion there's little heat soak on those coils due to how much air is flowing through the engine bay (and how cold that air was). The heat soak that's the most harmful is when the car is parked; when cars with headers (no shields) are run hard on a hot day then parked with the hood closed. After I come off track I leave the fans running for 10 minutes and pop the hood as well.

I dunno, maybe it was using gutted stock cats or other stock exhaust parts. I only make 200WHP on E85, with all the "best" supposed mods, ACE, etc. etc., but we told the tuner to shoot for highest power with safe setup. My dyno was with 5W40, and suspect the 5W50 costs maybe a tiny bit of HP, compared to what a lot of street/DE guys use for max HP dyno runs.

Good to know. Well, I just found out that my '15 actually was the early model that had the "old" '13-14 setup. I thought all '15 models were updated. I was wrong, they were not. So I am now going to upgrade to the "new" harness and coils, and add a bunch of heat shielding (headers are already dual ceramic coated).

Also got my track-box so I can flip on peddle dance mode and fans with a switch, something I haven't been able to do until now.

Yeah, thought about adding a diff cooler too, but I'm running at most three 15-20 min sprint races/sessions a day, with a bigger cover (about .75L extra fluid), so that should be fine for 4-6 track days before needing to be changed, and that's the heavy duty 80W250 Giken fluid. I'm interested to see what it looks like after about 5-6 days on track.

[Petah78]

Thank you for the excellent info. I only intend to track my car 3-4 times a year and each outing with 60-70 actual on track miles. I think I will run a X-40W oil and just go from there.

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

OP, I live in the Northeast and initially my BRZ was my daily. Once I put AP racing brakes and Jackson racing oil cooler, and some suspension parts I realized it was just not feasible as a daily driver.


With the oil cooler it never got up to temp on the street unless I drove it really hard. And it would cool off so fast even if I did. I would drive one gear lower than normal just to keep RPM up and some heat in the oil. And running A/C in the summer also blew air over my cooler and cooled oil. Even with a cardboard over it was still running low temps on the street.
G

Anyway, I was lucky enough to have a second car so I just retired the BRZ from DD use and only used it if I wanted to go for spirited drives and track days.


I looked into, but never did, some people put a valve in line with the oil cooler and can block off flow that way when they don't want to use it. Also Jackson racing came out with the radiator+oil cooler combo later on which I think would have been better for my useage. That is probably something you should look into. And maybe a grill block if you see really low temps.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Milhouse86

Coming from the I blew my engine category, I ran the Motul 0w20 everyone recommend. I had 0 track experience. 3 days out over 2 months and I blew it up at Gingermen raceway. 76 degree day, topped out at 86 mph in the big 180 left hand sweeper on the back half of the track. Started making noise and then lit up like a Christmas tree and shut down.



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Proper oil pan that is baffle will help and is needed for a dedicated track car.

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