02-18-2016, 09:18 AM | #114 | |
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The big ticket connectors are the green ones, and the connector attached to the ignition surround from the odyssey. The Connectors and Pins are terribly expensive, but the crimper is $550. So grabbing them from the junkyard is a very good idea. I will have the list of where most of them can be found as soon as I refine it more, and get my swap finished. (Just waiting on Toyota at this point) Edit: Woo! Final part arrived Got a little concerned when I noticed the plug didn't look to fit the connector that is on all the other Servos: Happy to find it was one of the connectors That I did order correctly.
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02-20-2016, 12:42 AM | #115 |
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Holy crap this is a lot of work.....
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02-20-2016, 04:24 AM | #116 |
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No doubt, yet another pioneer bringing us closer to a solution (I want dual CC in my FR-S). I want it, no... I need it!
Keep up the progress!!
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02-22-2016, 09:45 AM | #117 |
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Glad I didn't post my Excel file. Ran into an issue with the pins I bought for the 24 pin connector.
The 16 pin and 24 pin connectors on the back of the Auto CC panel use different pins (by 0.2mm height). While I was searching I found it from the supplier in Japan. $5 for Connector/Pins +$10 shipping is better than $6 for just connector and $11 shipping from Toyota. I'll order it today and hopefully have it by next week. I HIGHLY recommend buying the crimping tool for these pins. After spending almost an hour trying to pin the 16 pin connector with a manual crimper (Because my ratcheting one wouldn't work) I was loosing my patience. Price is extremely reasonable if you have ever looked at buying a good Crimper. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-300-005-Ratcheted-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0050KDKUC"]Eclipse Terminal Crimper on Amazon[/ame] Edit: So I remember to grab this connector as well: 90980-10796
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02-22-2016, 07:03 PM | #118 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to phanguy For This Useful Post: | DustinS (02-22-2016) |
02-23-2016, 11:39 PM | #119 |
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Harness is almost finished. Just need to get the two connectors installed when they get here. I am hoping they come in by Friday so I can get everything in on Saturday. Going to put more time in to see if I can source the very few connectors I haven't found from Japan yet. I want to make a nice harness eventually. Edit: Crimper came in today, pins have a hard time staying straight while crimping. Really need to figure out why.
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02-26-2016, 01:43 PM | #121 |
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Well Good and Bad News:
Good News: Connector Order came in Bad New: The Connector/pins for the 24 pin connector on the HVAC Panel is incorrect. I *Might* be able to get the pins to work, no guarantee. So I am still looking for them. Really frustrated at this point. I have also been trying to track down the Resistor Connector from someone other than Toyota. It is used on a ton of Hondas but I cannot find any part number or anything, There is also no part number on the connector itself. Plan is to still get it in the car tomorrow, but that all comes down to the 24 Pin connector and how I determine how to continue. I thought about just "potting" the pins onto the HVAC and using a different connector, but that doesn't help anyone else with their swap. Edit: Pins that are needed: 025-AMP3-035056 Toyota Part Number: 82998-12870 Double Edit: Oh S***. May have found a local source for pins and connectors.
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02-27-2016, 03:15 AM | #122 |
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Dash Out, Harness Complete. Looking it over, it seems the Dash Bar has to come out for the HVAC Box to come out. Not something I am too keen on doing tomorrow. I will attempt the Dual Climate when the weather gets nicer. Single Climate for now
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02-27-2016, 03:06 PM | #123 |
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Everything in... and... Panel Doesn't turn on...
@Chaetagnath Did you leave any of the Manual Control things plugged in? Edit: Fixed the issue. I read the Blue Relay wrong and tapped the wrong wires. I also used the wrong wire on connector 12/13. After fixing those... IT WORKS!! now My only issue is when I turn my headlights on, the panel doesn't dim/turn the lights on. When I hit rear defrost, it tells the CC panel the headlight are on. So I need to figure that out. Edit. Okay. I tried Reading through the Wiring Diagram and I couldn't for the life of me figure out which is the Illumination wire and which is Defrost. Anyone Figure that out? Edit: Very Poor Picture - Not sure why it's so bad Edit: Another issue added. Heat Doesn't work. A/C works amazing, Heat not at all. If I put it on HI (HOT) and hit auto it turns A/C on... hmm
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02-28-2016, 12:47 AM | #124 |
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Holy crap.... Didn't know you had to take the interior that far apart....
You're a badass. |
02-28-2016, 09:58 AM | #125 | |
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It looks like the servos are not calibrated from the factory, I had to open up my Directional Servo and set the gear in the right position. I think My heat issue is my temp servo not being in the right place. I am going to remove it and set the temp to full hot and move the flap itself then reinstall. Fix #1: Heat Fixed. The Servo was binding somehow. Loosened it up, set it max hot and re-installed, took a few times to get it on right. Now on to figuring out the illumination wire I have crossed on the Defrost Wire. Fix #2: Thinking about it, the defrost button on manual is connected to Connector #2 (D22 Connector) so I figured my issue had to be with that one. I was right. Apparently staying up super late working on the harness was not such a great idea. I read the diagram wrong and tapped the wrong two pins on the connector. Not sure how I didn't blow anything up, but now it all works. Just have to put everything back in the car, and tuck the super long harness up under the dash in a safe place.
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02-28-2016, 02:47 PM | #126 | |
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really good job on this dude. i think a lot of people are really going to appreciate your work. for the whole hvac box... yeah you'll have to remove the whole damn bar. and you'll have to loosen the coils from the engine side. and it also involves having to dump and refill the a/c coolant as well... which is why i think single temp is the way to go. rudy told me that it should be possible to do the swap without having to touch the coils, but i found that to be impossible. one of my quirks of the system are that when i hit the off button, all the lights are actually still on and i'm able to still change the vents to front, lower, etc. i'm unsure if all of that is supposed to work normally like that since i always forget to ask someone with a brz to show me how it works normally. my second quirk is that my driver side vent still blows air when i tell it to only push air to the bottom. i'm not sure if it's a vent issue when i was messing inside the hvac box, or if that's normal? hopefully we get more people to chime in if they've done this and can answer those questions. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to phanguy For This Useful Post: | DustinS (02-28-2016) |
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