Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[LOLS2K]

@CSG Mike I'm pretty damn lazy, especially at 7 AM. You definitely answered my question! LOL

[GeorgeJFrick]

Just finished second season of track days/autox. Car is stock (zII* spec). Learned a lot.

Considering coilovers for next season, and while not really looking for a specific coil-over recommendation; I'm looking for information relevant to my goals.

Will I learn more by spending quality time with something like the KW variant 3's, where there is a lot I can adjust; or do you recommend a more entry level set where I'm dialing less and they are 'set' stiffer? I'm told the KW's are worth it for the warranty; but the Tein street flex are considerably more affordable. I've read a million threads about this and I don't have a clear answer when trying to balance durability, learning and investment.

If it helps, I started this season nose diving into corners, jacking the front about 3 psi higher than the rear. By the end of the season I was keeping all 4 tires at the same psi through the course.

I don't want to fall behind on learning to work directly with the suspension; while still focusing on earning seconds instead of buying them. I realize a set of springs may be a start, but again I'd like to start adjusting (even badly) and get that experience.

Would it be beneficial to get, for example; a set of RCE's and camber plates? Then I'd be lower and be able to work with the camber adjustment? How much is there to learn there when the money could be in the KWs?

tldr; What's the best suspension change to learn from; and if coil-overs are worth it; what coil-over do you recommend? My current choices are Feal 441, Tein SF, and KW V3.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by GeorgeJFrick

Just finished second season of track days/autox. Car is stock (zII* spec). Learned a lot.

Considering coilovers for next season, and while not really looking for a specific coil-over recommendation; I'm looking for information relevant to my goals.

Will I learn more by spending quality time with something like the KW variant 3's, where there is a lot I can adjust; or do you recommend a more entry level set where I'm dialing less and they are 'set' stiffer? I'm told the KW's are worth it for the warranty; but the Tein street flex are considerably more affordable. I've read a million threads about this and I don't have a clear answer when trying to balance durability, learning and investment.

If it helps, I started this season nose diving into corners, jacking the front about 3 psi higher than the rear. By the end of the season I was keeping all 4 tires at the same psi through the course.

I don't want to fall behind on learning to work directly with the suspension; while still focusing on earning seconds instead of buying them. I realize a set of springs may be a start, but again I'd like to start adjusting (even badly) and get that experience.

Would it be beneficial to get, for example; a set of RCE's and camber plates? Then I'd be lower and be able to work with the camber adjustment? How much is there to learn there when the money could be in the KWs?

tldr; What's the best suspension change to learn from; and if coil-overs are worth it; what coil-over do you recommend? My current choices are Feal 441, Tein SF, and KW V3.

It sounds like you want to learn.

I'm gonna say KW V3 with some stiffer rear springs, and/or a rear sway bar.

Let us know when you're ready.

[ka-t_240]

Well, my racing season has came to an end. I am one of those people that likes to spend time and experience observing the things my car does on track that I don't like and planning the best action to fix/improve those issues. I know have about 10 track days and 15 autox events under my belt in the car.


I have noticed at the last couple track days that I seem to be able to get my ABS to activate under straight line threshold breaking on the road course. It feels like front wheels only, but not sure how to tell for sure.


I read many many posts about the brake bias being horrible on these cars, is that the cause of my issue? Or do I have a setup/driver improvement oppertunity? I never really noticed this with the HP+ in my car, but I have also started to become much more comfortable with the car and starting to push it a bit further.


Suspension: RCE T2, RCE Sways, RLCA, subframe/diff bushings, perrin steering lockdown, and Grimmspeed Strut Bar.
Alignment: -2.6 Camber/0 Toe Front and -2.0 Camber/Slight Toe in rear
Brakes: DTC60 Pads(F/R) Centric Blank Rotors(F/R), Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace, Stainless Lines, RBF600 Fluid.
Wheels/Tires: 17x9 RPF1 and 245 RE-71R






What is everyone's thoughts?

[GeorgeJFrick]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It sounds like you want to learn.

I'm gonna say KW V3 with some stiffer rear springs, and/or a rear sway bar.

Let us know when you're ready.

Ok, so...

1) KW V3
2) Cusco Catch Can
3) Motul Maintenance Package (sport) (found on csg website).
4) SS Brake lines.

Is the catch can the best preventive/longevity change I can do? (I already have an ATI harmonic balancer going in). Or is there something more important to do in terms of preventing Catastrophic Hobby Termination?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Well, my racing season has came to an end. I am one of those people that likes to spend time and experience observing the things my car does on track that I don't like and planning the best action to fix/improve those issues. I know have about 10 track days and 15 autox events under my belt in the car.


I have noticed at the last couple track days that I seem to be able to get my ABS to activate under straight line threshold breaking on the road course. It feels like front wheels only, but not sure how to tell for sure.


I read many many posts about the brake bias being horrible on these cars, is that the cause of my issue? Or do I have a setup/driver improvement oppertunity? I never really noticed this with the HP+ in my car, but I have also started to become much more comfortable with the car and starting to push it a bit further.


Suspension: RCE T2, RCE Sways, RLCA, subframe/diff bushings, perrin steering lockdown, and Grimmspeed Strut Bar.
Alignment: -2.6 Camber/0 Toe Front and -2.0 Camber/Slight Toe in rear
Brakes: DTC60 Pads(F/R) Centric Blank Rotors(F/R), Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace, Stainless Lines, RBF600 Fluid.
Wheels/Tires: 17x9 RPF1 and 245 RE-71R






What is everyone's thoughts?

With the bold part in mind, I'd recommend investing in a datalogging system over the winter. You'll be able to see exactly what's happening with your braking issue for example.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by GeorgeJFrick

Ok, so...

1) KW V3
2) Cusco Catch Can
3) Motul Maintenance Package (sport) (found on csg website).
4) SS Brake lines.

Is the catch can the best preventive/longevity change I can do? (I already have an ATI harmonic balancer going in). Or is there something more important to do in terms of preventing Catastrophic Hobby Termination?

Just curious...why do you have KW V3 in your list and not RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers? You seem like you're familiar with RCE products and a track day guy.

You can PM me if you have any questions about them.

- Andrew

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Well, my racing season has came to an end. I am one of those people that likes to spend time and experience observing the things my car does on track that I don't like and planning the best action to fix/improve those issues. I know have about 10 track days and 15 autox events under my belt in the car.


I have noticed at the last couple track days that I seem to be able to get my ABS to activate under straight line threshold breaking on the road course. It feels like front wheels only, but not sure how to tell for sure.


I read many many posts about the brake bias being horrible on these cars, is that the cause of my issue? Or do I have a setup/driver improvement oppertunity? I never really noticed this with the HP+ in my car, but I have also started to become much more comfortable with the car and starting to push it a bit further.


Suspension: RCE T2, RCE Sways, RLCA, subframe/diff bushings, perrin steering lockdown, and Grimmspeed Strut Bar.
Alignment: -2.6 Camber/0 Toe Front and -2.0 Camber/Slight Toe in rear
Brakes: DTC60 Pads(F/R) Centric Blank Rotors(F/R), Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace, Stainless Lines, RBF600 Fluid.
Wheels/Tires: 17x9 RPF1 and 245 RE-71R






What is everyone's thoughts?

Are you pedal dancing? How long are your brake pads lasting yuo?

[GeorgeJFrick]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Just curious...why do you have KW V3 in your list and not RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers? You seem like you're familiar with RCE products and a track day guy.

You can PM me if you have any questions about them.

- Andrew

Unfortunately I don't have a good answer for you. It looks like with adjustable top hats I'm spending $2800.00 either way. That's the majority of an entire years' race budget for me (I'm no baller). You make a good point in regards to doing further research (I looked at RCE springs and your RCE Lite package, but not your coil-overs).

Looking back, I shouldn't have mentioned RCE, I should have just said "springs and top hats", as the brand mentioning may have affected CSG Mike's recommendation.

I don't have enough information to make a decision to even get the KWs at this point. I'd probably have to go with no top hats (which makes me lean back towards the Teins, but then I have all experts telling me KW v3).

My apologies; this wasn't meant to really be about brands, but an approach to learning suspension tuning. It sounds like its on me to make these decisions, but it feels like there is a chasm between beginner and intermediate. The original question was about choosing an upgrade for systematically exploring ways across.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by GeorgeJFrick

Unfortunately I don't have a good answer for you. It looks like with adjustable top hats I'm spending $2800.00 either way. That's the majority of an entire years' race budget for me (I'm no baller). You make a good point in regards to doing further research (I looked at RCE springs and your RCE Lite package, but not your coil-overs).

Looking back, I shouldn't have mentioned RCE, I should have just said "springs and top hats", as the brand mentioning may have affected CSG Mike's recommendation.

I don't have enough information to make a decision to even get the KWs at this point. I'd probably have to go with no top hats (which makes me lean back towards the Teins, but then I have all experts telling me KW v3).

My apologies; this wasn't meant to really be about brands, but an approach to learning suspension tuning. It sounds like its on me to make these decisions, but it feels like there is a chasm between beginner and intermediate. The original question was about choosing an upgrade for systematically exploring ways across.

Gotcha...no worries at all and thanks for the feedback!

I think you're going about things the right way. Going from beginner to intermediate is a great time to stop and think about pathways and the direction you want to go with your car. Research time for sure. Take your time. There's lots of knowledgeable suspension and track guys and girls on here who'd be glad to help.

- andrew

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are you pedal dancing? How long are your brake pads lasting yuo?

-Not Doing the Dance.


- Pad Life -
HP+: 10k Street, I am guessing 15 days of autox, and 6.5 hpde days. Fronts have 30% left and rears had about half.
DTC60: Will be removed this week. They have 3.5 HPDE Days, 2k street miles, 6 autox events. Not sure on how much pad is left, haven't had them out since 2 events ago when they looked to be almost new.




I will see the "nanny" turn on once or twice a session.

[EAGLE5]

Can pulling a fuse disable the ABS without making the car go into some kind of limp mode? If so, which one? I tried pulling the ABS fuse once before, and the car did not like it at all. Even the steering had issues.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

With the bold part in mind, I'd recommend investing in a datalogging system over the winter. You'll be able to see exactly what's happening with your braking issue for example.

- Andrew

What system are you thinking? Most of my friends use Traqmates. Working with Myles on the suspension setup over the last 2 years has done nothing but improve the car. Now I just need to buy some scales.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

What system are you thinking? Most of my friends use Traqmates. Working with Myles on the suspension setup over the last 2 years has done nothing but improve the car. Now I just need to buy some scales.

We like the AIM Solo DL; the OBD2 interface on newer cars is KEY to dissecting what's going on.

They're in-stock and ready to go.