Troubleshooting a Leak with OFT

[Jasonb]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

MAD GAINZ


MAF Scale Before
Attachment 167555

MAF Scale After
Attachment 167556


My car is so fast now.

???

[Lakitu]

lol I'm just joking.

[Jasonb]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

lol I'm just joking.

Ok. A properly scaled MAF isn't really going to add power. I guess it possibly could if the improper scaling is making the open loop portion run overly rich or overly lean, but I don't think the point is to add power. A properly scaled MAF should just make the car run better and be smoother overall. I noticed on one of my failed attempts I made it worse somehow and the car would feel a bit jerky when the trims would go from one end to the other. Meanwhile on my last attempt where my fuel trims are within +/-3 it feels much smoother overall.

[Lakitu]

Originally Posted by Jasonb

Ok. A properly scaled MAF isn't really going to add power. I guess it possibly could if the improper scaling is making the open loop portion run overly rich or overly lean, but I don't think the point is to add power. A properly scaled MAF should just make the car run better and be smoother overall. I noticed on one of my failed attempts I made it worse somehow and the car would feel a bit jerky when the trims would go from one end to the other. Meanwhile on my last attempt where my fuel trims are within +/-3 it feels much smoother overall.

Yeah, I chickened out. Consulted Shiv for some feedback first before I do anything. I don't really know what I'm doing lol. But thankfully I don't have any of the noticeable symptoms of a poor MAF scaling as you described. Glad it worked out for you though.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

I don't have any of the noticeable symptoms of a poor MAF scaling as you described.

.....

Originally Posted by Lakitu

It's the same symptoms all over again that I've seen a few times before whenever I mess with the ECU. The car feels sluggish and just literally struggling to move.

[Jasonb]

Your symptom is that your LTFT is in the double digits....

[Lakitu]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

.....

Ah, forgot to mention that those symptoms that could actually be felt while driving are gone completely. The visual LTFT symptoms are what remains to be fixed. Always happens to my car after re-flashing the ECU, it's most likely unrelated to the fuel trim issue and I probably shouldn't have mentioned it lol. It fixes itself after driving a few miles, as Shiv recommended via email.

[churchx]

Lakitu: maybe what you are experiencing is "dead pedal" problem, when after reflashing throttle pedal needs to learn it's travel, or LTFT fuel trims, which need to be learned driving a while in closed loop?
For dead pedal fix after flash turn key off, then to accessory mode, wait 30sec, turn key off, then to accessory, wait 30sec, turn key off, then turn engine on & let idle for 1 minute.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

Ah, forgot to mention that those symptoms that could actually be felt while driving are gone completely.

Because the trims have adjusted so the fueling isn't totally off as they would be when the LTFT is 0 after a reflash. Poor driveability is due to not doing the pedal/throttle calibration and/or due to fueling error.

[Lakitu]

Well, I think I found the issue. The throttle body is open from the bottom at all times. Currently with the car off, I can push it closed from the top, but it just goes right back to open when I let go. From all the pictures of oem and aftermarket tb's, they are always completely closed. I hope there is a way to adjust this...

[Jasonb]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

Well, I think I found the issue. The throttle body is open from the bottom at all times. Currently with the car off, I can push it closed from the top, but it just goes right back to open when I let go. From all the pictures of oem and aftermarket tb's, they are always completely closed. I hope there is a way to adjust this...

Just remove it. Run it wide open all the time.

[Lakitu]

Originally Posted by Jasonb

Just remove it. Run it wide open all the time.

HAHA!!

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

Well, I think I found the issue. The throttle body is open from the bottom at all times. Currently with the car off, I can push it closed from the top, but it just goes right back to open when I let go. From all the pictures of oem and aftermarket tb's, they are always completely closed. I hope there is a way to adjust this...

turn car on engine off ue something to hold accelerator pedal to floor full open.


Throttle plate should be 100% open now


clean any carbon/soot buildup of throttle plate and throttle body with cleaner


Remove device holding accelerator full open. operate throttle a few times.


turn car off and remove battery terminal for few minutes theis will reset ecu and force throttle learn.


reconnect battery turn ignition on operate throttle a few times hopefully happy days. If not throttle body may have problem or throttle pedal sensor/actuator

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by Lakitu

HAHA!!

Get us another datalog after the intake modifications, your AFRS look fine so I don't think this is o2 or exhaust related but it would still be useful to use the high temp rtv around the exhaust.

It seems intake related as when you go on the throttle it drops to -2.x