Another V8 Swap

[GrabTheWheel]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Nice find! This will be helpful.



Something close to a Setrab Series 9 34 Row most likely.

Car is 99% Street Driven (Currently my DD besides when Ice/Snow is on the ground, or if I feel like driving the miata). The other 1% is autox (which the car group I am apart of puts on outside of local SCCA events) and backroad runs . Eventually a few trips to hallett will occur when I can get the car squared away. My car is the definition of "Track Inspired build" as it's not feasible to make it to the track yet.

I don't really ever plan to run slicks but I am aware of oiling issues. One of the reasons my first engine only lasted 8k miles. TSP assures me I don't have anything to worry about (As does a local drag car builder), but if I didn't, the first engine wouldn't have failed. Will eventually go Dry Sump when the funds become available.

Well, I'll be putting all of the oil pressure precautionary measures through their paces as I opted to go with AC over dry sump for the time being. I'll let you know if the improved racing pan can really handle the claimed 1.4 lateral G's. Also added the Melling oil pump and the machine shop that built the motor says they were able to make it so the heads drain back to the pan better during cornering.

My next step if need be is to add Accusump. Eventually I will convert to a dry sump setup but in the meantime I'll be keeping a very close eye on my oil pressure gauge!

[DustinS]

Oil Pan arrived. Just need to get the oil filter relocation kit and should be set.

[Zer0]

Looks good.

[DustinS]

Finally sold my calipers. Looking at ordering oil filter relocation stuff and maybe some tubing to try my hand at a set of headers.

Trying to decide between 3/4-16 in vs 1 1/2-12 oil filter/filter mount

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Finally sold my calipers. Looking at ordering oil filter relocation stuff and maybe some tubing to try my hand at a set of headers.

I made a set for my GTM as they weren't available at the time. Wasn't too bad a project,,, although I think the FRS might be tougher. When I say made, I cut and fitted the tubes then tacked them. Sent the separate tubes out for TIG welds,, them assembled and tacked together with flanges and collectors and sent out for final TIG welds. Then out for JetHot coating.
I will say that I mostly used 'Miscellaneous Bends' from Schoenfeld Headers which was just a bunch of left over bends. All mild steel,,, maybe stainless would of been a better choice though.


Seeing your fab skills,,, I don't think you'd have a problem with it.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by gtpvette

I made a set for my GTM as they weren't available at the time. Wasn't too bad a project,,, although I think the FRS might be tougher. When I say made, I cut and fitted the tubes then tacked them. Sent the separate tubes out for TIG welds,, them assembled and tacked together with flanges and collectors and sent out for final TIG welds. Then out for JetHot coating.
I will say that I mostly used 'Miscellaneous Bends' from Schoenfeld Headers which was just a bunch of left over bends. All mild steel,,, maybe stainless would of been a better choice though.


Seeing your fab skills,,, I don't think you'd have a problem with it.

I have thought about just using the Schoenfeld Misc. Bends even though they are Mild steel. I would get them coated and hope it lasts a decent amount. That would let me get an idea of everything I need, anything I want to change, and if I want to change the size at all. Mild steel should last a good while. Just won't look as pretty in a few years if the coating fails. It's $180 for 36" of bends, should be enough.

[DustinS]

Completely forgot, but Yesterday was the two year anniversary of the Blown FA20. I had the FA20 taken out and torn down the next day. Need that kind of motivation now. Just too fun to drive.

[DustinS]

Engine is ready to come out. Ran out of time last night.



I don't think my current catch can is enough. Going to try and figure out another solution before the engine goes back in (which I hope to be next week)



This shows more build up and the flakes of nylon or whatever is woven around the trickflow hose. Super cheap and has actually worn off. Will be replacing with vibrant hose. The fibers are just from taking the intake off, they weren't actually being sucked into the intake while running.



Trans leak is still as bad as before. Plan is to try and remove just the tail housing and reseal, worst case I send it to someone to have diagnosed.



Wasn't going to do a whole lot while engine was out, but things keep popping into my head. Improved Racing Crank Scraper/Windage tray, as well as Energy Suspension full bushing kit, and Whiteline offset front control arm bushing have been added. Hopefully get everything in before next weekend.

[DustinS]

It's out:





Leak is isolated to this side:



I am pretty sure I took a picture of this last time the engine was out, but they aren't getting any better.



Along with the oil filter relocation stuff and the crank scraper, I ordered a Fluidampr Crank Pulley to replace my Powerbond unit.

[DustinS]

1st of a couple packages arrived





Fluidampr to replace my Powerbond Crank Pulley. -4an hose to replace the cheap and failing trick flow hose on my steam port kit, and -10 an hose/fitting for my oil filter relocation kit. The oil filter mount, Crank Scraper, and some gauge fittings are coming straight from Improved Racing but havn't been shipped yet, hopefully it's not too long a wait. I was hoping to have this back up and running this coming weekend.

[DustinS]

Well.



Part of me says put it together and run it this season and see what it looks like next winter. Part of me says do bearing now.

I am going to pull a main cap and see what the bearing looks like. I will decide from there.



BTR gaskets came in:

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by DustinS

I ordered a Fluidampr Crank Pulley to replace my Powerbond unit.

LS engine builders usually choose ATI over Fluidampr. I had to go with Fludiampr for my FA20 as well but I didn't have a choice. May I ask why did you prefer Fluidampr over ATI for your LS?

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by mrg666

LS engine builders usually choose ATI over Fluidampr. I had to go with Fludiampr for my FA20 as well but I didn't have a choice. May I ask why did you prefer Fluidampr over ATI for your LS?

Fluidampr dampens over a wide range (all) of RPMs because of the way it’s constructed/designed. The ATI is designed around only a few different rpm/harmonic/vibration ranges. The ATI also needs rebuilt as the rubber will degrade just like the factory dampener. Fluidampr won’t ever need rebuilt.

That is at least what I have found in my research, so the better choice was the fluidampr IMO.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Fluidampr dampens over a wide range (all) of RPMs because of the way it’s constructed/designed. The ATI is designed around only a few different rpm/harmonic/vibration ranges. The ATI also needs rebuilt as the rubber will degrade just like the factory dampener. Fluidampr won’t ever need rebuilt.

That is at least what I have found in my research, so the better choice was the fluidampr IMO.

My reason for not choosing ATI for FA20 was that it was underdriving 10% (which is not okay with supercharger) and extending about an inch. Thanks for pointing out other advantages of Fluidampr. But one disadvantage of Fluidampr is that mine squeeks in the winter at very cold temperatures.