CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Shankenstein]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

^Very well put, although I'm biased and would add Ohlins R&T to the ~$3k high quality (but simple single adjustable) coilover

Sorry fellows, I had it in there first... then rewrote the section. They're definitely one of my favorites in the field right now. Good tech, beautiful design, and they're friendly enough to let @Dezoris tour their facility. Mark and Turbowski should get back on the forums instead of producing epic review videos.

[churchx]

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

Mann Engineering attempted to do this with their staged suspension packages: LINK to Mann Eng
Generally speaking:
<$25 = camber bolts (Subaru or SPC)
<$75 = alignment
<$250 = strut tower bar (Grimmspeed, Whiteline, Cusco, etc)
<$300 = differential bushings/inserts + braces
<$500 = sway bars (Eibach, Strano, Whiteline, Hotchkis, Perrin)
<$750 = quality tires (RS-3, ZII, PSS, RE71R, etc)
<$1500 = springs/shocks (Bilstein/Koni + Swift, RCE, spring of choice)
<$1750 = differential (1.5 way OS Giken)
<$2000 = entry-level coilover (Bilstein B14, Fortune Auto 500, RCE Tarmac Zero, KW V1, ST Suspensions, Tein Flex series) + rear lower control arm (SPC, SPL, many others) + camber plate (if needed, HVT or Raceseng)
~$3000 = high-quality coilover (Ohlins R&T, RCE Tarmac II, KW V3, Tein SRC, MCS TT1, AST 4150, Mann Engineering)
unlimited = chassis bracing and bushings (front and rear subframe seems to be good targets)

Hmm, is this list meant as upper levels including lower ones, or one has to sum their prices? From prices it somewhat seems that it's later case.

Order of importance? (my opinion, which is likely wrong)
1) Camber, alignment, and tires
2) Springs/struts or Coilovers (depends on budget and driving style)
3) Sway bars
4) Bushings
5) Chassis bracing (including strut tower bar)
6) Differential

However wrong or not Mann's & yours is, they can help to start with suspension purchases for newbies, unlike most threads that review/write about single suspension component, or at most - few of same type, leaving out overall relative-inter-component importance/gain comparison.

[Shankenstein]

Originally Posted by churchx

Hmm, is this list meant as upper levels including lower ones, or one has to sum their prices? From prices it somewhat seems that it's later case.
However wrong or not Mann's & yours is, they can help to start with suspension purchases for newbies, unlike most threads that review/write about single suspension component, or at most - few of same type, leaving out overall relative-inter-component importance/gain comparison.

You'd have to sum the prices. I just pulled numbers from FT86SF and other sites, to give an approximate cost.

It's also worth noting that I intentionally avoided replacement toe links, A-arms, and other structural pieces. Once you are that deep into the rabbit hole of drift, track, stance, etc... you probably will know what parts are necessary for meeting your adjustability or weight targets.

[Figo]

I just installed the whiteline subframe and transmission bushing, as well as perrin shift insert.

I can heard noise from rear frame. Since I am not sure whether I started to hear it before or after installing these bushing, I am not sure whether it is how the bushing noise should be or not.

It actually sounds like someone is shaking an old metal bed. Or the sound from a typical old car's frame. When I park the car the get out of it, I can also hear the noise from rear frame once I get off the seat.

Anyone know whether it is a "normal noise" of these bushings?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Figo

I just installed the whiteline subframe and transmission bushing, as well as perrin shift insert.

I can heard noise from rear frame. Since I am not sure whether I started to hear it before or after installing these bushing, I am not sure whether it is how the bushing noise should be or not.

It actually sounds like someone is shaking an old metal bed. Or the sound from a typical old car's frame. When I park the car the get out of it, I can also hear the noise from rear frame once I get off the seat.

Anyone know whether it is a "normal noise" of these bushings?

That's not normal. Check to make sure you've got everything tightened back up.

[drewbot]

Yes not normal. Mine whines but no metal bed noises

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by Figo

It actually sounds like someone is shaking an old metal bed. Or the sound from a typical old car's frame. When I park the car the get out of it, I can also hear the noise from rear frame once I get off the seat.

Anyone know whether it is a "normal noise" of these bushings?

That sounds like you might not have fully / properly tightened the sub-frame bolts.

When you put them back in were you careful to not cross-thread them and were they torqued to the correct settings?

[Figo]

Originally Posted by jvincent

That sounds like you might not have fully / properly tightened the sub-frame bolts.

When you put them back in were you careful to not cross-thread them and were they torqued to the correct settings?

Originally Posted by drewbot

Yes not normal. Mine whines but no metal bed noises

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Calum

That's not normal. Check to make sure you've got everything tightened back up.

Thank you guys.

It is possible to be the sound of endlink? I drop my car on KW V3.

Its a typical metal bed sound. And when I got out off the car, I felt like I was getting off an old metal bed.

[jvincent]

Were you dropped on the V3s before you installed the sub-frame bushings?

If it's an endlink you should be able to see the mark where it hits or if you like on the ground when somebody gets into the car you should be able to see it.

Actually, that's a good idea. Slide under the car and have somebody get in and out. If the noise happens all the time you should be able to localize it.

[Figo]

Originally Posted by jvincent

Were you dropped on the V3s before you installed the sub-frame bushings?

If it's an endlink you should be able to see the mark where it hits or if you like on the ground when somebody gets into the car you should be able to see it.

Actually, that's a good idea. Slide under the car and have somebody get in and out. If the noise happens all the time you should be able to localize it.

I just tried to get in and out but can not hear it. Seems like it only can be heared after I drive for a while and get out of the car, or sometimes at low speed. I will take off the rear wheel and jack up the hub to see whether I can hear it or not..

[D18]

definitely sounds like an end link thats loose. Ever since installing my swaybars a few months ago, I find I get a thumping sound from under the car every 4 weeks or so, and I have to crawl under to retighten an end link. They aren't very loose either, so check carefully, I look for a washer that I can move up and down a bit to identify the loose culprit.

[FISHBURGLAR]

I have kwv3 and will be installing them soon. i will be using gruppe N front top hats with camber bolts for camber adjustment. but for the rears i bought the whiteline adjustable bushing. i will be doing all the install myself besides the bushing. problem is no one is willing to put them in and align the rear camber. and the only ones who are willing are charging me way too much and i must leave my car for a day or two.

my car is a DD with alot of spirited driving. im looking for a 1.25-1.5 inch drop. im thinking of around 2 degree camber in the front and 1.7 in the rear. will SPC lower control arms give me what im looking for? or will i throw out my rear geometry and better i pay for the bushing install?

i want to do everything right the first time around. THank you!

[Racecomp Engineering]

There's gotta be a better shop in your area. Or make the drive to Jersey to AZP Installs.

Another alternative if you're somewhat handy is to remove the upper control arm yourself and bring that to a shop to install the bushing.

The SPC lower control arms will likely give you what you're looking for but I do like the firmer bushing in the UCA.

- Andy

[dp1]

Originally Posted by FISHBURGLAR

I have kwv3 and will be installing them soon. i will be using gruppe N front top hats with camber bolts for camber adjustment. but for the rears i bought the whiteline adjustable bushing. i will be doing all the install myself besides the bushing. problem is no one is willing to put them in and align the rear camber. and the only ones who are willing are charging me way too much and i must leave my car for a day or two.

my car is a DD with alot of spirited driving. im looking for a 1.25-1.5 inch drop. im thinking of around 2 degree camber in the front and 1.7 in the rear. will SPC lower control arms give me what im looking for? or will i throw out my rear geometry and better i pay for the bushing install?

i want to do everything right the first time around. THank you!

If you're still looking into shops, these are not on or very close to LI but I am in south Westchester and I've had great experiences with EFI Logics in CT and Moto-East in PA, also heard good things about AZP and know the owner from HPDE events.