Direct Injector Seal Installation | Video and Issues

[TEWwild]

Originally Posted by akiranakayama

Stroke of genius, really. Nice and thanks! But what is that purple implement you are using? I'm assuming it's made of plastic?

And then what did you do to push it off the spindle and onto the injector shaft itself? Continued with the drill?

It is a piece of a plastic 5 gallon bucket lid that was laying around in the garage at the time. Once it is on the tool it will just slide onto the injector.

[kimy2003]

Caution

• However you must do this job clean other wise it will not be perfect. Few sand particles you may have in the way may cause the leak on the seal itself or even go into your engine and i do not like the idea.
• When you are disconnecting the cables related to fuel keep a tissue below since fuel does evaporate but not so quick and puddles stays lot longer...

things to take out. in steps

• 2 bolts on each side for port injector cover 12mm
• 3 bolts on each side for intake manifold 12mm
• 2 vacuum 1 connector on top
• 1 vacuum 1 connector at bottom
• port injector fuel lines, they are simple clips you can loosen them with hand
• port injector connector 2 on each side
• intake hose and a vacuum line on the hose
• Throttle body 4 bolts 10mm, do not touch the valve in the middle.
• few cables ties and clips and other fuel lines may need to be undone to loosen intake manifold, keep every contact and holes CLEAN

Then you are done with intake manifold. just pull out there are cables holding it from coming off you just need to get them out of way.

1. Now cover your intake holes with some "CLEAN" cloth or tissue
2. Take 17mm wrench and loosen the DI fuel lines from both bank 1,2 then loosen the 3 bolts holding the fuel line down.
3. loosen the 2nd fuel line from pump to bank 1 then take them out, keep the contacts "CLEAN"
4. take some engine degreaser and try to clean around the DI as much as possible.
5. loosen 2 bolts on each side on the bank of DI.
6. gently pull and take caution of small plastic parts that may fall out from top of DI.
7. Most probably the DI rubber seal will it inside the bank, there was a plastic piece which stayed in the bank so you must get that one out.

I have replaced bare minimum parts for this job. only replaced DI top plastic stopper and bottom teflon seal. stopper plastic is tiny plastic which cost me about 18 dollar which i find really expensive for how it looks. and the teflon seal is probably the reason why you are doing this job to begin with.

How to install the seal. advise from manual and my own experience

• take the damaged seal (if its still there) from the DI out and clean the area.
• put the seal in the tool then use the drill trick to get it up(its in this thread)
• put the ring into the DI with wedged side up then apply drop of engine oil on the DI shaft then slide the ring to get oil at the inner column.
• put the tool on top gently slide down using the flat side of your nail evenly from all direction. before it falls into DI keep the ring up so that the seal doesnt fly down too much.
• REMOVE the top tool and create a block from the top using FLAT side of your nail and gently press on with the ring tool from the bottom against the teflon seal. go around evenly do not allow single side stretch.
• once the teflon seal is somewhat inside the ring tool start to use the edge of the DI and press on, try not to get any pinch on the teflon.
• Go around evenly and bring the ring tool up then stop when the teflon seal is right in the middle of the ring tool, wait for about half min.
• Then simply pull out the ring tool and work on your next DI.

inspect your DI hole and see if there are any dust or sand. use any method you have order to clean that out. i used both vacuum cleaner and tissue. then tried to use engine degreaser with tissue to get it really clean. Dirty DI hole WILL cause leak again.

place the DI on the hole with the bank DO NOT PUSH, put the screws for the bank and slowly tighten both the sides evenly, this will get you a gentle good push to the DI, my first few tries i had ruined seal from insert process which later i found out simply dirty DI holes may cause leaks... went through 11 seals to learn the right way.

DI fuel lines. the contacts are just simple wedges. They do not have any seal material. since its metal to metal contact sealing pressured fuel this is prone to leak. however you may reuse and feel safe about it if you can tighten to right torque and keep the contacts free of dust or sand.

resemble everything as close to torque spec then inspect every vacuum and connectors. the injector module and the bracket must be fully bolted on other wise the injector module does not work and car will simply not start.

Edit:
Symptom i had is random misfire. I was getting misfire through out besides the higher RPM. Also when engine heats up my car wasnt misfiring. I first suspected coil and plugs, which i changed them both and symptom did get better but was still there. So suspected a cylinder compression leak. Decided to work on DI seal just to rule out the fault but when i was done with DI seal job the engine was repaired and runs perfect.

[juliog]

Originally Posted by kimy2003

when i was done with DI seal job the engine was repaired and runs perfect.

What model year was your car? 2013, 2014...? Mileage? Car tracked?

[kimy2003]

Originally Posted by juliog

What model year was your car? 2013, 2014...? Mileage? Car tracked?

my car is always tracked, drifted, autocrossed.
happend when i passed 100k km exactly, i wonder if that was planned from toyota...
2013 model

[Sleepless]

2014, 25K miles, tracked heavily, added JRSC at 22K

[sosick]

After turbo install my car sounds like a diesel. I dont think its my port injectors. Because i can hear those too. But my car drives fine. Here is a video.

Any thoughts? Btw i have fic 1100cc injectors

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by sosick

After turbo install my car sounds like a diesel. I dont think its my port injectors. Because i can hear those too. But my car drives fine. Here is a video.

Any thoughts? Btw i have fic 1100cc injectors

Not the DI seals; those you hear at high RPM or under load.

[sosick]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

Not the DI seals; those you hear at high RPM or under load.

Ok i only hear this at idle and goes away with throttle/load

[h8ful6]

should be a sticky

[sw22]

Does anyone have this tool for sale?

It apparently takes 2-3 weeks to get one from any retailer and I already have my injectors apart.

Thank you

[In1t]

Oh, so now it's my turn to have all the fun. Do you guys reckon fuel pipes replacement is absolutely necessary? Just wondering if anyone replaced the seal with minimum other parts (only gaskets and o-rings)

[kevin.nguyen]

Originally Posted by In1t

Oh, so now it's my turn to have all the fun. Do you guys reckon fuel pipes replacement is absolutely necessary? Just wondering if anyone replaced the seal with minimum other parts (only gaskets and o-rings)

Does anyone have the answer to this?

[In1t]

Originally Posted by kevin.nguyen

Does anyone have the answer to this?

I do - the answer is no. At least I didn't replace mine and it's all good. Just make sure you torque the lines properly and you'll be fine.

[ermax]

I just finished a rebuild of my engine and while I was at it I did my DI seals. I have a hook up at a Toyota dealer who lent me the dealers seal tool. When I picked it up I was surprised to find it wasn't the tool referenced in the service manual. It had the part number "49 D013 1A0". Turns out this is the tool Mazda references in their manuals. Come to find out the Skyactiv-G 2.0 has the same DIs as the Twins but with a different spray pattern.

This tool is way better than the Toyota tool. It has a tool for sliding the new seal down the cone while keeping it nice and square. I was able to do all 4 seals in about 10mins and didn't destroy a single seal. They also when back into the heads nicely. So if anyone is in the market to buy a seal tool I would get this one before going with the Toyota tool. Oh one other feature this tool has that the Toyota tool does not is it has an indentation on the side of it (not show in my pictures) for installing the new stopper rings (the little plastic ring on the input side). My old used rings popped on and off easily but brand new ones took a lot of force to snap on so it was handy to have this tool for doing that.





Reading through this thread I only saw a Toyota part number for the seals. Here are the numbers for both Toyota and Subaru.

Toyota: SU00300322
Subaru: 16608JB000