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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 07-15-2013, 09:57 AM   #169
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Continuing to think on this. Is it possible he meant that cavitation at the impeller tips could cause the already evaporated mix to condense and come out of the air? I can see that happening.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:57 AM   #170
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Well I know the water mix is the portion that absorbs the heat and evaporates but the methanol portion caries into the intake runners providing (for a lack of a better term) an octane boost/more stable fuel mixture to prevent knocking (when running more timing). I think he was suggesting that some of the compression from the twin screws would cause some of the methanol to evaporate too. I didn't have an in-depth conversation with him unfortunately. I'm not an expert, just trying to learn what I can.
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:26 PM   #171
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Well I know the water mix is the portion that absorbs the heat and evaporates but the methanol portion caries into the intake runners providing (for a lack of a better term) an octane boost/more stable fuel mixture to prevent knocking (when running more timing). I think he was suggesting that some of the compression from the twin screws would cause some of the methanol to evaporate too. I didn't have an in-depth conversation with him unfortunately. I'm not an expert, just trying to learn what I can.
Well, the bmw guy is probably speaking towards the fact that you can spray 3-4x more water/meth if you spray before the supercharger vs. after.

This is because the surface area of the screws and the housing is quite large if you were to calculate it and they get first pass at the water/meth. They cool down which is what you want. The reason you spray more (than if you were spraying directly into the ports) is that you need to have excess water/meth make it to the combustion chamber. In this way you cool the sc and you cool the air going into the chambers. You also add octane to the air/fuel mixture allowing you to go more aggressive with the timing/boost.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:28 AM   #172
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Figured out the map switching issue tonight on the dyno. The rear defroster way of switching maps was not working properly. Both maps are working correctly now.

The previous graphs I showed a few days ago were actually with the ECU locked into the meth map. These runs showed an average of about 225 whp with the stock OP and DP.

Tonight, the 91 base map was enabled and tested. See chart below.

These below graphs are with OP and DP installed right before the runs. No tune adjustment so there could be a few more ponies in there. I also had the AC on by accident. LOL noobalert.

All runs were on the same dyno in similar conditions. The old meth injection plot I include below is on the same dyno run a few days ago.

Map 1: 91 pump
Map 2: 91 + Meth inj.






Map 2: Old Meth (before OP + DP)
Map 2: Meth (after OP + DP install)

You can see that just by installing OP + DP the top end has been free'd up. Looks like with the stock pipes/cat it was suffocating at the very top. Looks like a difference of about 10-15 whp and wtq in that area. Looking into a header next and then going for a tune up next to take full advantage of the increased flow.


Last edited by sw20kosh; 07-18-2013 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:46 AM   #173
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Nice BengaL btw
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:21 AM   #174
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Close. Savannah.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:07 AM   #175
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I also had the AC on by accident. LOL noobalert. Anyone know how much power the AC takes to run?
The AC declutches at WOT.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:41 AM   #176
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I think the header will make the most power gains, I plan to prove that this Saturday on the dyno.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:50 PM   #177
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Are our sleeves aluminum? If so ... I have some pics to share with all you water methane injections guys ... and they are not pretty. Water - methane eats aluminum. I build a turbo elise running WMI and after 6-7k miles, needed a new block due to pitting.

I have been modding my cars for 10-15 years ... I have done turbos and SC with many variations. In my experience, a SC with IC running 93 on a conservative tune is the only way to go for a TRUELY reliable daily driver.
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:17 AM   #178
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I don't know about water and methanol, but I know a guy who's run straight methanol as fuel in his aluminum block motorcycle as a daily for years with no issues. Methanol is hydrophobic and if left in the cylinders can cause corrosion.

Also, methane=/=methanol.

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Old 09-22-2013, 06:53 AM   #179
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sorry I did mean methanol.

My car was running fine as well. I had the famous value drop issue (retaining ring failure) and need to change the head ... what I found was badly pitted cylinder walls (corrosion) that would have eventually lead to power loss and eventual engine failure. Take a look at rick's turbo elise pics at link below

http://www.boefabrication.com/index....ks-turbo-elise

I easily spent 25k on modification.
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:14 PM   #180
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FA20 sleeves are iron, but the pistons are aluminum, as is the head. I've always been under the impression that if you drive easily for the last 5 minutes before shutting the car down, you wouldn't have any trouble with methanol because there wouldn't be any left in the combustion chamber.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:30 PM   #181
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Never seen pitting due to water/methanol.

Pitting is usually due to detonation/knock. Have seen countless torn apart engines with this issue.

As someone mentioned, the methanol is only sprayed when the engine is under boost. No methanol will be left in the engine when you shut the car off.
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