NorCal (Bay Area) OFF-TOPIC Chat Thread

[PMok]

LOL just think of the Titanium name as a marketing gimmick... just like with the Ford cars that come with a Titanium trim package, you certainly don't expect them to be made from titanium either.

But I believe the SPL LCAs to be a high quality part, and hopefully not the issue. And knowing the condition of those roads on Mines and Del Puerto Cyn ... yeah get your alignment checked.

[Clipdat]

I don't think there's any traction issue, they are extremely sticky and don't really ever slip/spin.

They are directional, so I believe I would have to unmount remount to flip them.

I have not rotated them, but it seems pointless to at this point.

Originally Posted by driggity

Do you have a traction issue on corner exit that results in spinning the rear tires? Considering how much of your driving is on backroads and with your alignment seeing that uneven of wear is weird. Do the RE-71s have a dedicated inside and outside or can you flip them on the wheels? May need to rotate front to rear more often too.

I will have the car aligned when I get new tires put on.

Originally Posted by PMok

But I believe the SPL LCAs to be a high quality part, and hopefully not the issue. And knowing the condition of those roads on Mines and Del Puerto Cyn ... yeah get your alignment checked.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by driggity

Do the RE-71s have a dedicated inside and outside or can you flip them on the wheels? May need to rotate front to rear more often too.

You can flip 'em, but these are so close to being done I wouldn't waste the money on tire dismount/remount.

Rotating front/rear should help a bit, one of the reasons I bought and enjoy this car is the square wheel/tire setup. It was a head trip to see how many people want a staggered setup on this thing.

stance man, it just doesn't seem worth it

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

What in the actual fuck?

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

The outside half still has visible tread pattern.

The fronts seem to be wearing fairly uniform and aren't at the wear bars yet, albeit with the outside edge getting bubbly/tacky from excessive heat buildup.

To me, it just looks like too agressive of a rear camber/toe setting for the type of driving you do. No fault to you, the components or the person who did the alignment, just the one who suggested the settings lol. I would just take this as feedback, decrease camber, maybe zero out toe, get new tires and move on.

[Clipdat]

Toe was set to zero front and rear, but it may have slipped in the rear.

Rear camber was set to -1.4. Is there any benefit of having negative camber in the rear for performance driving?

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

To me, it just looks like too agressive of a rear camber/toe setting for the type of driving you do. No fault to you, the components or the person who did the alignment, just the one who suggested the settings lol. I would just take this as feedback, decrease camber, maybe zero out toe, get new tires and move on.

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

What in the actual fuck?

[Clipdat]

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Toe was set to zero front and rear, but it may have slipped in the rear.

Rear camber was set to -1.4. Is there any benefit of having negative camber in the rear for performance driving?

Hmmm -1.4 deg doesn't sound so agressive (spec is -1.2 +/- 0.75). The two times I've had my toe go out of whack, they were uneven from side to side. Is the wear symetrical ie same on both sides?

My layman understanding of camber for performance driving is that it increases the contact patch during cornering. So my guess would be having more camber in the rear (relative to the front) would lead to more understeer, you want to limit it to improve rotation.

[Clipdat]

The wear is symmetrical in that in that both rear tires' inner half is gone.

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Hmmm -1.4 deg doesn't sound so agressive (spec is -1.2 +/- 0.75). The two times I've had my toe go out of whack, they were uneven from side to side. Is the wear symetrical ie same on both sides?

My layman understanding of camber for performance driving is that it increases the contact patch during cornering. So my guess would be having more camber in the rear (relative to the front) would lead to more understeer, you want to limit it to improve rotation.

[PMok]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

The wear is symmetrical in that in that both rear tires' inner half is gone.

yeah that's why I thought it's not toe, it's excessive negative camber. If they check alignment and find nothing wrong with toe, you should probably dial it down to -1.0 or around there.

Based on the amount of miles you put on the car, it's still more highway miles going to and from the Mines route, than the driving you do on Mines, that leads to the accelerated wear. I would say show the wear to the alignment shop now, see what they suggest, and rotate the rears to the fronts. They will last longer up there and you can monitor the rear for further wear.

[Clipdat]

Thanks, I'll ask Gary at Elite for advice on what to do.

I hesitate to go make the trip to Elite just for an alignment and pay for rotation just to get 2 or 3 more Mines runs out of these tires.

Originally Posted by PMok

yeah that's why I thought it's not toe, it's excessive negative camber. If they check alignment and find nothing wrong with toe, you should probably dial it down to -1.0 or around there.

Based on the amount of miles you put on the car, it's still more highway miles going to and from the Mines route, than the driving you do on Mines, that leads to the accelerated wear. I would say show the wear to the alignment shop now, see what they suggest, and rotate the rears to the fronts. They will last longer up there and you can monitor the rear for further wear.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Thanks, I'll ask Gary at Elite for advice on what to do.

I hesitate to go make the trip to Elite just for an alignment and pay for rotation just to get 2 or 3 more Mines runs out of these tires.

idk if the alignment is performed now and there's nothing out of whack then you shouldn't need an adjustment when the new tires go on, at most throw it on the rack to double check which should be cheaper than a full adjustment.

[Clipdat]

Yeah, true.

Need to either figure out the logistics of getting to Burlingame on a weekday or find someone local to help me do a rotation.

Originally Posted by strat61caster

idk if the alignment is performed now and there's nothing out of whack then you shouldn't need an adjustment when the new tires go on, at most throw it on the rack to double check which should be cheaper than a full adjustment.