06-05-2022, 12:23 PM | #11159 |
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06-05-2022, 12:29 PM | #11160 |
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06-05-2022, 02:11 PM | #11161 |
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For the PowerSonics I use PSH-12180NB-FR for the big batteries. Two for boost and one for the starter battery.
And PS-1290F2 for the small batteries. Two for boost. But I've also used SigmasTek SP12-18 for the big batteries and SP12-9 for the small ones. Or MightyMax ML 18-12 for the big batteries. I've had my kit for a long time, so I've been through many batteries. I usually get them from Amazon. All the small batteries are the same 12 volt 9 amp/hours. The PSH-12180NB-FR is 12 volt 21 amp/hour. The other big batteries are 12 volt 18 amp/hour. I haven't really noticed any difference between the two. It still has plenty enough power to start the car (in Florida). If I lived up north I'd use the 21 amp for the starter battery. Hooking up the 1.5 pack is a lot trickier and more dangerous than the later kits. But the batteries are a lot cheaper. Make sure you have the 1.5 tray before you order any of these. The 1.5 tray has the slide-on tabs on the top hold down block for smaller batteries. And you need to tape the two small batteries end to end. You might have the "original tray" but the 1.5 is the very first attempt. Rob modified the tray to use more user friendly batteries after maybe the tenth kit sold. I can take pictures if you want. Last edited by WNDSRFR; 06-05-2022 at 02:32 PM. |
06-05-2022, 05:04 PM | #11162 | |
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06-06-2022, 09:28 AM | #11163 |
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The main difference between the 1.5 and 2.5, besides the size, is the terminals on the battery. My big batteries have a through hole terminal about #10 size. I have to drill them out to make them fit the harness. The small batteries have a slide on tab. I suppose you could rig something up to use the big batteries but it would be a pita. You would probably be better off to just replace the batteries you have. Or try to find a 1.5 tray.
Looks like with the 2.5 setup you only have 19 amp/hr@24 volts for boost. The 1.5 gives you 27 amp/hr minimum. And yeah, whenever you change the batteries, disconnect the negative first. Then disconnect the controller wiring. You might even want to tape up your wrench with electrical tape. I've shot some pretty impressive arcs more than once. Good luck. |
06-06-2022, 11:22 AM | #11164 | |
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06-11-2022, 02:02 PM | #11165 |
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It's alive
It was the batteries. I put two new ones in today and it works fine again. I hope to take it out after dark when I can read the meter to see what the voltage is doing. I don't think that solenoid tubing is leaking, but I'll probably go after it one of these days just to be safe. Looks like the best method is to unbolt it from the rear and push it out the front for access.
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06-11-2022, 09:34 PM | #11166 |
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This might be a long shot but does anyone have an extra wiring harness they'd be willing to sell? This is the harness that plugs into the controller (6 colorful wires) and into the original foot pedal/on-off switch. It is basically two aux cables the eventually merge into a 6 wire plug.
I took my car to the dealership for the valve spring recall and they messed up the cable management and one of my wires was resting on metal and it partially melted. Harness image1 and image2 The other option would be to cut and solder this part. Is the wire just 3 smaller wires underneath the black rubber? edit: bought a kit and gonna try to solder this tomorrow as plan A.
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Last edited by l0aded; 06-11-2022 at 10:07 PM. |
06-13-2022, 01:16 PM | #11167 |
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Trickle charger
I want to hard-wire one to my starter battery but I'm concerned about those two small wires running from the + and - posts to the controller. I don't know if they send or receive current, and what might happen if they receive the charge. I think it's more likely they receive current, but I can't be sure. They would also be receiving the charge with the ignition off and that's another unknown. Do any wiring diagrams for these things exist? Mine is version 2.5.
I want to put an OBD reader on it, and though it sleeps, it still pulls a little current so will probably need a trickle charger. Has anyone done this and gotten away with it? |
06-13-2022, 02:19 PM | #11168 |
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Just hook it up the way you normally would. Connect the - charger lead to the - terminal and the + charger lead to the + terminal. Your starter battery will remain charged along with the ECS batteries.
The way the batteries are connected is they are all connected in parallel to the alternator (12 v) to charge them all. The ESC batteries are connected in series (24 v) for the blower. Unfortunately you got your ESC running at about the worst time possible. The price of gas is now $5.50 and the temperature is over 90 degrees. You'll notice that the ESC works much better in cooler temps. |
The Following User Says Thank You to WNDSRFR For This Useful Post: | Qwimby1 (06-13-2022) |
06-13-2022, 02:44 PM | #11169 | |
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06-19-2022, 03:38 PM | #11170 |
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ESC throttle management
A normal supercharger produces linear boost, but the ESC is switch-on, switch-off. It seems to me that it requires a bit different driving technique. That's the way I've approached it so far. Seems like dumping full boost (albeit only 5') on a slow-revving engine could put a lot of stress on the internals. Of course it doesn't take long to reach 3k and up, so I've been metering the throttle till it spools up. Does this make sense, or am I off base?
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06-19-2022, 04:06 PM | #11171 | |
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06-20-2022, 09:39 AM | #11172 |
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I'm not concerned about power output here. My concern is about possible stressing of engine internals by going to a high boost (again albeit only 5 pounds) at low RPMs. If you floor it off the line with the ESC, you're producing maximum boost from about 1500 RPM. Seems to me that's not a good idea but I welcome other opinions.
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