projekt zeal86 (build thread)

[zeal86]

Here is another photoshop of what my plans are for my new look. It is definitely a race and aggressive look... because of that, I'm leaning towards the rbv1 style wing.

I want to implement a plexi-glass or lexan window into my diffuser to show off my suspension components and exhaust. I'm also planning on adding rear canards that connect to my extended rear diffuser. The diffuser itself will be made of aluminum and ABS.

I'm also painting the chassis behind the beam brace black and the beam brace mounts Beatrush gold.

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[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by zeal86

To seal this area I'm thinking about temporarily securing the overfender to the body then lining the inside of the overfender with tape and/or plastic then spraying expanding foam into the gap.

Then I will remove the fender and sand, fiber glass, and bondo the foam. It should have the perfect shape to seal off the gap. I'll then run sealant along the edge where the foam meets the inside of the overfender.

Finally I'll prep, mask off, and spray the wheel wells with a textured undercoat.

Just be careful if you haven’t used that foam before. It is strong stuff. As it dries, if it can’t expand into open space then it starts to push on itself then it may bow the fender. It may be best to do a spray in the depths of the crack, allow it to expand fully then try to do a second bead then a third and so on, slowly building up layers. Sanding after is good, but you don’t want it to deform the fender in the process, messing up the shape underneath and possibly misshaping the fender permanently.

[zeal86]

I got some things done today...

I finished welding the driver side rear quarter... no pics though... still ugly as fuck... lol I had to go back to .035 which is for a bigger gauge metal than what I'm welding because although the .025 made for a better looking weld, I needed argon gas at those settings. I misread the chart... newbie mistake. It wasn't creating enough heat without the argon gas to penetrate the metal.

Anyway, I didn't finish but I started my glaze coat on the passenger rear quarter...

Mocked this up... I think I'll cut the lip in order to mate up with the bumper extensions instead of the other way around. I want to preserve the long edge on the bumper extensions.





I also cleaned up my work area... the dust was starting to get to me...



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[zeal86]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Just be careful if you haven’t used that foam before. It is strong stuff. As it dries, if it can’t expand into open space then it starts to push on itself then it may bow the fender. It may be best to do a spray in the depths of the crack, allow it to expand fully then try to do a second bead then a third and so on, slowly building up layers. Sanding after is good, but you don’t want it to deform the fender in the process, messing up the shape underneath and possibly misshaping the fender permanently.

Thanks for looking out man 👍 If I do the foam thing I will have the inside of the fender buffered with plastic or something removable plus when doing this... I planned on holding the fender on with Clecos. That way I can remove and make adjustments to the foam... get it right then reinstall the fenders.

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[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by zeal86

I got some things done today...

I finished welding the driver side rear quarter... no pics though... still ugly as fuck... lol I had to go back to .035 which is for a bigger gauge metal than what I'm welding because although the .025 made for a better looking weld, I needed argon gas at those settings. I misread the chart... newbie mistake. It wasn't creating enough heat without the argon gas to penetrate the metal.

What shielding gas are you using?

[zeal86]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

What shielding gas are you using?

I wasn't using any gas... I'm borrowing a welder so I'm working with what I have.

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[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by zeal86

I wasn't using any gas... I'm borrowing a welder so I'm working with what I have.

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I hear ya. I hope they don’t look like this:





If you have pores then the welds will likely fail. Shielding gas (argon, co2 for MIG welding mild steel) is what prevents oxygen in the air from reacting to molted steel that causes pores, making the steel brittle. This can happen even in spot welds, but maybe if you just did spot welds and jumped around a lot (not doing them side by side) you will be fine.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by zeal86

Thanks for looking out man If I do the foam thing I will have the inside of the fender buffered with plastic or something removable plus when doing this... I planned on holding the fender on with Clecos. That way I can remove and make adjustments to the foam... get it right then reinstall the fenders.

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I dunno about other foams, but Great Stuff will stay liquid if you apply too much at once. I used it as fill for my rear seat delete and hit several big cavities filled with liquid goo when I went to trim it. I think if I worked one layer at a time and let it cure, I wouldn't have had that issue. Or maybe there was some other unknown problem causing this symptom

[An Amish Woman]

Originally Posted by zeal86

I want to implement a plexi-glass or lexan window into my diffuser to show off my suspension components and exhaust. I'm also planning on adding rear canards that connect to my extended rear diffuser. The diffuser itself will be made of aluminum and ABS.

I'm also painting the chassis behind the beam brace black and the beam brace mounts Beatrush gold.

Interested to see how this will turn out. I like when people add windows on things you cant normally see into

[zeal86]

Originally Posted by An Amish Woman

Interested to see how this will turn out. I like when people add windows on things you cant normally see into

Thanks! I have high hopes for the design! I keep it too detailed down there to not show it off... not to mention that my suspension work is a huge part of my build. No other 86 I've seen at any shows in Texas has that much going on down below... lol

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[zeal86]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

I dunno about other foams, but Great Stuff will stay liquid if you apply too much at once. I used it as fill for my rear seat delete and hit several big cavities filled with liquid goo when I went to trim it. I think if I worked one layer at a time and let it cure, I wouldn't have had that issue. Or maybe there was some other unknown problem causing this symptom

I have an alternative idea that will probably work better than the foam method... I'll try to illustrate it instead of describing it soon.

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[zeal86]

I ordered more supplies today to clean up the area around the rear quarters and to bond my panels. I'm going to just finish glazing the areas then rattle can primer, paint and clear the area up to the outward facing edges. The part of the edge that begins to taper and face down I will spray with 3M undercoat.

I will scuff up and prepare the wheel wells for 3M undercoat as well. So I'm real close to beginning my final fitments before bonding and molding panels!

I need to start looking for a shop with a reputation for killer paint jobs. Hopefully I can pull a sponsorship from whoever paints my 86 and get the cost down.

I wanted to save money and rebuild some Work or SSR 3 piece wheels but finding some at the right price, bolt pattern, and big brake friendly has been difficult. I'll most likely end up buying new so I'll probably go with my number 1 choice Work Wheels L1 3P in gloss black with polished lips and gold pierce bolts. My number 2 choice are SSR Professors S1 3P.

Also, if things work out... I'll be switching to a covered trailer... a 8.5'x24'...I may even go 28'.

stay tuned...

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[zeal86]

I still need to apply 3M undercoat but for now... here are two pics of some white primer I applied.

I didn't try to make it over-the-top perfect since it won't be seen and because the undercoat will mask alot.





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[zeal86]

I masked off everything last night...I applied the 3M undercoat (08881) this morning.

Looks awesome!







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