Header info for a newbie

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

Both do not go to front pipe if I follow the morons idea. He plugs the before cat hole in the header, puts the before cat sensor in the after cat bung in header, and after cat sensor goes in fp

Sure, it could work with no cel but warranty is shot anyway.
So it comes back to "yeah, no" I wouldn't do it.

[Target70]

I am kind of curious now about o2 sensor location. On the stock manifold, I think the first sensor is only reading a single exhaust port. If you were to read a/f from the second port (the one after the collector in the OFH), being that it would be in stream of all 4 exhaust ports, would you get a more accurate reading?

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by Target70

I am kind of curious now about o2 sensor location. On the stock manifold, I think the first sensor is only reading a single exhaust port. If you were to read a/f from the second port (the one after the collector in the OFH), being that it would be in stream of all 4 exhaust ports, would you get a more accurate reading?

I think so, it's getting a reading from the entire motor instead of just one port.

I just spoke with the moron and he's still running strong at 6000 miles. He got a cel after 200 miles using a spacer.

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

I just spoke with the moron and he's still running strong at 6000 miles..

Define running strong? like a puerto rican's claim of 20HP peak increase on those power blocks?

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by s2d4

Define running strong? like a puerto rican's claim of 20HP peak increase on those power blocks?

Why are you pulling the race card? I'm white but just saying.

I meant running with no cel or any other issues, chief. This is my objective.

[Foobar]

I should point out that just because one person was successful for 6K miles with moving both sensors doesn't mean that you'll get the same results - which seems to be what you're trying to accomplish here. There are also people who have successfully eliminated CEL just using defoulers.

As soon as you mess with the O2 sensors, nothing is a guarantee, and basing all of this on the premise of retaining warranty is pointless - your aftermarket header is already a big red flag to any dealer that has to do engine work. If that's really the only concern, and the goal of the header is sound enhancement and not performance gain, then I'd just put the OFH on the car and be done with it. Whenever you have to get engine warranty work done, take it off and put the stock back on. Anything else is putting you in a position of getting a warranty denial.

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by s2d4

Define running strong? like a puerto rican's claim of 20HP peak increase on those power blocks?

Umm, there is really an Puerto Rican outfit which made those claims.

[GotBRZ1691]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

To an extent yes. I think they can more easily deny claims and deny many more things if the ECU is flashed versus just replacing the header.

Most dealerships are not going to know if the car has been flashed. And with the OFT you can flash back to the stock OEM factory equipped tune in ten minutes.

Don't mistake this as hating. I just don't understand completely. You are worried about your warranty and buy a part that is plainly visible and audible. You are messing around with Cats and O2 sensors.

You are gaining nothing from your header except noise, albeit a nice noice, I love rumbles too. You clearly voided parts of your warranty and are going to gain no horses and torques.

Get the OFT instead of Fing around with Cats and O2 sensors. The parts will be cheap but the shop will charge you labor priced at about 50 to 60 bucks an hour probably.

In my opinion buy the OFT and drop in filter. You will see gains closer to 20hps than 10hps. You new header will be functional. You can reflash back to stock tune in 5 minutes before going to the dealership. And the OFT can be used over and over again for any flash you want. Flash over to E85 if it is available and your car will haulllll

Just my two cents. Hope you consider them.

[B-R-Z]

Put on the header and be done with it he says. What about the CEL?

[GotBRZ1691]

What is the shops quote for the custom pipe you want with the sensor and what not?

If it doesn't work. They are going to have to modify it. And it still may not work. I ask a shop near me to install, just install a front / over pipe. It was about $140 to $180.

Just to have a CBE installed will cost about $100 +/-

[B-R-Z]

No custom pipe, thinking of having the bung added to factory front pipe.

[GotBRZ1691]

ok, that seems a lot more reasonable. Wish you luck with things. Keep your eyes open for a used unmated OFT for sale. Ive seen em go for 350-400. It will so be worth it. Especially if you have E85 near you, which I thought New Jersey had.

[B-R-Z]

Surprised I haven't gotten a cel yet, going on about 700 miles with header installed and nothing.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

Put on the header and be done with it he says. What about the CEL?

I say ignore it - anything else short of a tune to disable it is going to still void your warranty and potentially still throw a CEL.

What we're trying to tell you is that you've already messed with your warranty and federal emissions requirement by eliminating the stock header and catalytic converter. At this point, you might as well do it right and disable the check via a tune. While you're in there, you might as well get a tune specific for your header to maximize the benefit of it. Using a header without a proper tune just sounds like a bad idea to me. Moving your O2 sensors with additional bung/weld sounds like an even worse idea to me. When we consider that all of what you want to accomplish is based on the premise of retaining your warranty, then all of that accomplishes nothing, since your warranty has already flown south for the winter. A custom tune can be reversed back to stock if you're worried about that. An aftermarket header with repositioned O2 sensors? how are you planning on hiding that from a dealer when you need warranty work? You can't. You'll have to take it off anyway and go back to stock.

In any case, you seem dead set on moving the sensors, aside from the one guy you keep referring to, I don't see anyone else here who has experience with that.