Has anyone had a warranty claim denied? Seized engine! Pics of teardown added 6/5

[Freude am Fahren]

I get the popping sound that everyone talks about with the detonation and seal failure, only thing is, I've only ever heard it when pulling away with light throttle, on my 1-2 shift, less than 3k or 4k RPM. And once on a downshift blip (probably 5k tops). It's not anywhere near repeatable enough to bring in, but I'm afraid I'm destroying my DI seals every once in a while.

[thill]

Originally Posted by Freude am Fahren

I get the popping sound that everyone talks about with the detonation and seal failure, only thing is, I've only ever heard it when pulling away with light throttle, on my 1-2 shift, less than 3k or 4k RPM. And once on a downshift blip (probably 5k tops). It's not anywhere near repeatable enough to bring in, but I'm afraid I'm destroying my DI seals every once in a while.

Go to your dealer and make sure you are on software version ZA1JA01C for your car. This should fix the DI issue. If your seals are already damaged, you will have to work with the dealer on that.

[Sellout]

That popping sound isn't the seals being destroyed. It happens after the seal is destroyed.

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by thill

Go to your dealer and make sure you are on software version ZA1JA01C for your car. This should fix the DI issue. If your seals are already damaged, you will have to work with the dealer on that.

this software is available in USA? for both Scion / Subaru?
how do we check what version of map currently have?

[thill]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

this software is available in USA? for both Scion / Subaru?
how do we check what version of map currently have?

Yes, I suspect most cars produced in 2013 already have the fix. Assuming you don't have a tool to pull ECU info, your dealer can check what version you are on, and can reflash you to the latest version. This thread has more info on page 18 as to what was fixed:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=40951&page=18

Cal Name: ZA1JA01G
Release Date: May 2013 (NOT IN UK MARKET - CONFIRMED BY TOYOTA GB JULY 2013)
Known Changes/Fixes: 1. Changes to transient spark control to resolve failing (direct) fuel injector seals caused by excessive detonation when changing gear at high engine speed (above 5200rpm).

Note the cal name in the US ends in a "C". G is for Europe. So you want the dealer to ensure you have cal file ZA1JA01C in the States.

We have had one US BRZ owner confirm his car has the latest cal file and his car was built in Feb 2013. The South African TSB seems to point to cars produced after Jan 2013 should have the fix.

[jjaisli]

Originally Posted by Sellout

That popping sound isn't the seals being destroyed. It happens after the seal is destroyed.

Yes, and from what I understand, once the seals are destroyed, it will be very obvious and happen ALL the time, not just once in a while.

[Freude am Fahren]

I've gotten it probably 4-5 times in the 5 months of ownership, and never under the WOT situation. Should I be worried about my seals yet you think? I wish there was an easy way to check them.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dwx

Chevy, Porsche, BMW all have denied plenty of warranty work due to track day mechanical failures. I know someone with a 2009 GT3 with a diff failure and Porsche wouldn't cover it since it happened at a track day. That car even comes with R Comps from the factory! I know another guy with a Grand Sport who had to pay something like 13K for a new engine because Chevy wouldn't cover it since it happened at a HPDE. With Ford, Chevy, etc. it really depends on the dealers you take it to. With smaller makes like Porsche, Subaru it all goes through regional people and it just doesn't sneak by.

Used Cayman S IMHO is like a ticking time bomb I still don't think you made the wrong decision. Although people put the 911 engines in the Cayman which would be a lot of fun.

That S2K vs. GT3 thread is funny. Who would pick a S2K over a GT3? I f I have the money to buy a GT3 I probably have the money to maintain and fix it.

The GT3 has some serious issues from the factory, which need to be addressed before being able to be pushed to the level the s2k guys over in that forum want to drive at. Keep in mind that that thread is not from a regular s2ki subforum, but specifically the racing and competition subforum.

That subforum has bred multiple GT academy winners, and single handedly has more driving enthusiasts than this entire board combined... for now.

Also, a lot of them have DEEP pockets, and still choose not to track a GT3 when they daily drive similarly expensive cars.

I may have a slight s2k bias.

Originally Posted by robispec

And AP1 s2ks threw valve retainers handle just plain EVIL...and went threw 4 major revisions..befor morphing into the AP2 and then more fixes till the finally brought out the CR model after EIGHT years of customer testing got the bugs out....

Lets not forget the Cyl 4 oil starvation on the early AP1... although, to be fair, you have to be trying to redline 6th gear for it to happen.

Oddly enough, I prefer the AP1 with bumpsteer correction.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Freude am Fahren

I get the popping sound that everyone talks about with the detonation and seal failure, only thing is, I've only ever heard it when pulling away with light throttle, on my 1-2 shift, less than 3k or 4k RPM. And once on a downshift blip (probably 5k tops). It's not anywhere near repeatable enough to bring in, but I'm afraid I'm destroying my DI seals every once in a while.

Originally Posted by Sellout

That popping sound isn't the seals being destroyed. It happens after the seal is destroyed.

Here's your answer.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by robispec

And AP1 s2ks threw valve retainers

Mine were fine at 140k miles and 25 track days on the engine. I think this is primarily a mechanical overrev issue (i.e., driver error), but yeah, there should have been a little more margin designed in.

handle just plain EVIL...

AP1 rear toe change with bump was a dumb idea. It surprises me that the Japanese made this basic mistake over and over again (FC, early NSX, early 2nd gen MR2...). Rear toe moving around doesn't help anybody!

and went threw 4 major revisions..befor morphing into the AP2

Huh? What are these four MAJOR revisions and when did they happen? Clock in '01, glass rear window and minor spring/sway bar tweaks in '02, chrome trim around tails at the same time, as well as piston-oiling "banjo bolt" change (apparently not an issue on cars not driven at 150mph for extended periods), other *minor* changes, yeah, but I'm not aware of any MAJOR changes to the AP1 between '00 and '03.

and then more fixes till the finally brought out the CR model after EIGHT years of customer testing got the bugs out....

CR model reverted to AP1 steering ratio, so I guess they got that right from the get-go!

[WolfpackS2k]

Well this is weird. I replied to robispec's post 2-3 hours ago and addressed a lot of the stuff you two ^&^^ said. And yet...my post is apparently non-existant!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZDan

AP1 rear toe change with bump was a dumb idea. It surprises me that the Japanese made this basic mistake over and over again (FC, early NSX, early 2nd gen MR2...). Rear toe moving around doesn't help anybody!

I actually use bump-steer to my advantage... but it's not necessary if there's enough horsepower available. The s2k doesn't have enough horsepower :p

I do prefer having more bump-steer than what the AP2 has, but less than the AP1.


As for major changes... just springs, dampers, and sways between MY00-01 and MY02-03

See: http://clubhondaspirit.com/ftpforo/s...rings_rev1.pdf

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by WolfpackS2k

Well this is weird. I replied to robispec's post 2-3 hours ago and addressed a lot of the stuff you two ^&^^ said. And yet...my post is apparently non-existant!

Retype, retype!

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by thill

Yes, I suspect most cars produced in 2013 already have the fix. Assuming you don't have a tool to pull ECU info, your dealer can check what version you are on, and can reflash you to the latest version. This thread has more info on page 18 as to what was fixed:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=40951&page=18



Note the cal name in the US ends in a "C". G is for Europe. So you want the dealer to ensure you have cal file ZA1JA01C in the States.

We have had one US BRZ owner confirm his car has the latest cal file and his car was built in Feb 2013. The South African TSB seems to point to cars produced after Jan 2013 should have the fix.

this is very helpful info and i should stop by at nearby dealer and check
should sticky reflash / cal map info as well so other members can have most updated map from dealer.

I hope dealer is not stupid enough to understand what flash is