Another V8 Swap

[DustinS]

Of course I can't find the posts now, doesn't help photobucket pictures are broken, but Someone on here broke a few of them under the 600hp rating, and wasn't slammed. That being said, I haven't broken one yet and they aren't treated nicely.

[all4spl]

I'm also on air bags. so.....

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

The DSS axles are not that weak (At least from what I've seen from people who are on mild drops). People start snapping them because they're too low and the axle angle gets on the extreme side quickly on this cars. Anything below 1.5-2" drop is already putting a big strain on the axles.

Some local guys up here have had big QC issues with DSS axles... like 1/2"-3/4" difference in length on two axles ordered as a pair.

[DustinS]

The treaded portion was too long on my set. The notch where you are suppose to dent the axle nut was too far out. Need to go back through and check to make sure those are still tight.

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by DustinS

No A/C has been miserable.

Your post has really struck a chord with me. My car without AC wouldn't be a whole lot of fun to commute in. I was wondering if it might be possible to put some kind of a Frankenstein system together for a short term solution. Where a manual switch controlled 12v to the clutch and a trinary switch for high/low pressure and fan control. All this assumes the blower motor might still work via the OEM switches. Don’t know about the thermostat,,,, full cold work OK for me. Then there is idle control and high rev issues. Any thoughts???

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/738048-e38-c.html

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?46614-e38-A-C-Request

https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?8219-A-C-request-signal

[DustinS]

Doesn't help any if I don't have A/C lines haha!

Hopefully tossing the new gauges in after work, but choosing oil is one of the worst things to do. Especially when you feel you engine is on the rocks. Thinking another 0w-40 so I can compare oil pressure between gauges for now. Really need to order my some of the Joe Gibbs 5/30 Texas Speed Recommends.

[MRS-Colin]

Originally Posted by gtpvette

Your post has really struck a chord with me. My car without AC wouldn't be a whole lot of fun to commute in. I was wondering if it might be possible to put some kind of a Frankenstein system together for a short term solution. Where a manual switch controlled 12v to the clutch and a trinary switch for high/low pressure and fan control. All this assumes the blower motor might still work via the OEM switches. Don’t know about the thermostat,,,, full cold work OK for me. Then there is idle control and high rev issues. Any thoughts???

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/738048-e38-c.html

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?46614-e38-A-C-Request

https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?8219-A-C-request-signal

You could probably get away with making the high side switch be the path to ground for the relay coil. If the high pressure switch is "activated" meaning there is too high of pressure, the clutch would disengage. It might flip around a lot at the top as the system wouldn't let the system "pressure-down" a bit before reactivating the AC clutch.

[DustinS]

Gauges Came in. Not sure I like them as much as I was expecting. They will work though.



SpeedHut Sensor wiring was a lot heavier duty than the Tanabe.





So the bad news. Second oil change. I have been checking the oil level every once and awhile at the gas station with nothing looking wrong. Though When I drain the oil. I only get 3-4 quarts out on a 6 quart oil change. Not sure what the heck is going on there, but I will just keep a look out on the level more regularly. Wonder if a cam bearing is eating oil or something.



So new oil Pressure Gauge in. Oil Pressure all fixed!!... Not. Old Pressure gauge read the same. Oil is about 45psi cold. Once over 190 it idles around 20psi. Somewhat cold oil pressure gets to about 52 psi as RPMs rise and drops to low 40s. Once the RPMs drop it jumps back up into the 50s and then continues to come down. I'll throw a go pro on see if I can get a good video of it. Got the oil above 200 and went to do a pull to see what the pressure gauge read. went to about 6000 RPM. Oil never went above 45psi.... Definitely think I have an issue.

Edit: Called Texas-Speed. They told me it was fine and to run a 10w-40 oil.

[cf6mech]

Guess either im a relic or just plain hardcore but ive been commuting to work both this summer and last summer without A/C in Texas, and in the hottest part of the day as I work second shift.

[all4spl]

Sounds like cam bearing. Same EXACT thing my engine did same pressure and everything. No abnormal noises, took it apart and the bearing was half way out and hitting the cam lobe.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by all4spl

Sounds like cam bearing. Same EXACT thing my engine did same pressure and everything. No abnormal noises, took it apart and the bearing was half way out and hitting the cam lobe.

Yeah. I am going to see if I can get some time at my friends shop to check the cam bearings. Using the lift and drop the front subframe to check bearings as well.

[DustinS]

That Oil Pressure though...

[cf6mech]

Dustin, actually thats really not that bad for that temperature.....thats pretty hot for just sitting there idling....with out going over your whole thread, I need to ask if you have an oil cooler....if not get one....mines no where near that high even with it today at 100° on the way to work.

[wooly35]

I'm not running an oil cooler and my oil pressure at hot idle is around 30psi. Although I don't have my temp gauge in yet, so I cant really compare just yet. An oil cooler is always a good thing to have in 100+ heat outside tho. lol