Wheel stud replacement

[mwjcyber]

@Dave-ROR @bpracer

Is the axel a standard thread, where counter-clockwise loosens the nut? Also I found the 1 1/4 socket a better fit than the 32mm, which is weird given our car is metric.

Have to say, putting longer studs to accommodate my 10mm spacers is a lot more work than I had anticipated. Thank you for the detailed write-ups, you've helped me immensely.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman

How much longer over stock are the arp studs?

How big of a spacer can you run with the new wheel studs? I know people say 3-5mm max on the stock ones. I'm curious if something like a 15mm would be possible on the longer studs.

Forgot about this thread.

I've only run 10mm spacers, but there's a ton of stud leftover still. I'd guess 20? Haven't tried it though.

Originally Posted by kurbkilla

Dave, what spacers did you end up getting and what was the front brake kit you were going to have with the stock wheels?

Cheap Project Kics 10mm. I run the Essex Sprint front brake kit. It's a track oriented setup. 10mm with those brakes barely clear the AP calipers. I run extended studs anyways, I've found them to be far more durable (ARPs at least) when changing wheels/tires after a track day when everything is still blazing hot. We use the ARPs on the race car also and remove wheels when the brakes are still 1,000+ degrees. Changing pads when they are hot enough to melt gloves sucks

Originally Posted by mwjcyber

@Dave-ROR @bpracer

Is the axel a standard thread, where counter-clockwise loosens the nut? Also I found the 1 1/4 socket a better fit than the 32mm, which is weird given our car is metric.

Have to say, putting longer studs to accommodate my 10mm spacers is a lot more work than I had anticipated. Thank you for the detailed write-ups, you've helped me immensely.

Standard CCW to loosen and CW to tighten. 1/14" is 31.75MM so that makes sense. I actually use a 1 1/4" as well since I never remember to bring my 32mm with me.

For the front axle it's really easy, the rears are easy too, just more crap to deal with.

[buddy32]

Same here! Thanks @Dave-ROR. Just did the AP Sprint on the fronts last weekend with the extended studs and used this walkthrough.

[TylerLieberman]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Forgot about this thread.

I've only run 10mm spacers, but there's a ton of stud leftover still. I'd guess 20? Haven't tried it though.



Cheap Project Kics 10mm. I run the Essex Sprint front brake kit. It's a track oriented setup. 10mm with those brakes barely clear the AP calipers. I run extended studs anyways, I've found them to be far more durable (ARPs at least) when changing wheels/tires after a track day when everything is still blazing hot. We use the ARPs on the race car also and remove wheels when the brakes are still 1,000+ degrees. Changing pads when they are hot enough to melt gloves sucks



Standard CCW to loosen and CW to tighten. 1/14" is 31.75MM so that makes sense. I actually use a 1 1/4" as well since I never remember to bring my 32mm with me.

For the front axle it's really easy, the rears are easy too, just more crap to deal with.

Haha, I already got them on the car. 15mm spacers and still needed extended lugs. It's all good. I imagine I could get another 10-15mm on there if needed but that pushing it a tad bit.

[Ryaquinn]

I'm using Ichiba 20mm slipon up front. Still plenty of room with the ARP studs for lugs.


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[SubBrZ]

Just did mine rear studs. Didn't have to remove the hub but I'm also not going with longer studs. Just have to rotate the hub and hammer the studs out.

[Fizz]

I'm planning of upgrading my wheels studs to stronger one's since I remove the wheels quite often. Anyway I would like to know:

a) what is the length of the stock studs? (i already know it's M12x1.25)
b) does ARP have any shorter studs for Subaru?
c) will the Nismo 50/60mm (M12x1.25 with 14.3 knurl diameter) fit?

I want a stronger stud but don't like going too long (i.e. ARP 3"), and a number of Subaru guys have recommended going for Nismo studs as they come in shorter lengths.

[FR-S Matt]

Did one stud this past weekend as a shop overtorqued one of my Ray's lug nuts and I sheared off my wheel hub bolt inside the lugnut. Took a hammer, knocked the old one out. Bought a new one at auto zone for 2.69 and used the washer method to hand tighten the wheel stud in. I have a ghetto lugnut in place while I had to order an ENTIRE set of Ray's to just have replacements available.... Not too happy about that. This is why I need to pay attention to any alignment shop with air tools working on my car.

[sshole]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

This is why I need to pay attention to any shop with air tools working on my car.

Fixed that for you.

I took my car to a non-dealership once (Goodyear tire store to get new tires mounted on stock wheels). Never again. They managed to shear off 6 studs with an air impact gun even after I explicitly told the service writer "NO AIR GUN! NO IMPACT GUN! Anything not a hand tool does not touch my car." and he agreed, but failed to tell the technician.

Edit: Forgot to add that I really appreciate threads like this. I used the information presented in here to fix the huge fuckup that Goodyear gave back to me.

[Fizz]

Is it necessary to get a wheel alignment done if you remove the hubs for stud install?

Would you recommend putting thread lock on the hub/knuckle bolts? What about the axle nut?

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Fizz

Is it necessary to get a wheel alignment done if you remove the hubs for stud install?

Would you recommend putting thread lock on the hub/knuckle bolts? What about the axle nut?

I don't do any of that.. suspension bolts are not being touched for the hubs, and I just torque them. I don't recall the service manual suggesting that they have thread lock on any of them.

Axle nut gets staked in.

[Fizz]

Ok I just ordered some Nismo 50mm studs as I wanted a stronger stud with just enough extension to run a 5mm spacer. Plus I am also hoping that I'll be able to fit these studs without removing the rear axle nut and hub...since they're only a tad longer than stock.

I'll update again once installed.

[Fizz]

Finally got around to install my Nismo studs. The fronts were very easy, I just hammered the old one's out and used the nut and washer method to install new studs. As you can see they're only 10mm longer than stock studs, which is more than sufficient for spacers up to that thick. Even without the spacers on I was able to use my Leggdura 35mm nuts with space to spare....no need to run ugly open ended nuts.

I haven't done the rears yet because they wouldn't fit without removing the hub...and i was too lazy to do all that. Will do the rears next weekend.

Anyway these wheel studs are perfect for those who want something stronger than OEM but without having extra long studs sticking out.

[Fizz]

So I removed the rear hubs to install my Nismo studs....and after all that hard work I realised that the new stud will easily fit without removing the hubs. Doh!!!

So guys, if you're installing these Nismo 50mm studs on the rear, all you need to do is remove rotors and hammer out the old stud. Also used an impact wrench with washers to fit the new studs make installation a breeze. Few zaps and new studs are secured!