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06-13-2018, 09:54 AM | #29 |
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Sounds like early 2018 build dates?
Mine was built in March, no issues so far with 5500 miles on it. (yes, I do a lot of driving. Thank goodness, as I love being in it.)
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06-13-2018, 10:26 AM | #30 |
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It’ll be fine. This isn’t a common thing.
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06-13-2018, 12:13 PM | #31 |
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There's more info at this thread, and I posted some details of what the dealer did in my case:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=115951&page=8 |
The Following User Says Thank You to 86prime For This Useful Post: | Clutch (06-13-2018) |
06-13-2018, 12:52 PM | #32 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Just in a rough statistical sense the amount of people that have been affected by this is quite notable when you consider how small the sample group is. 3-4 cases already? Is this a foregone conclusion for early MY18 vehicle manufacture dates? Hauling the engine out of a brand new car to fix a defect that should have NEVER come out of the factory is a major issue! That wouldn't cotton with me! I would not be happy with that fix at all. Too many other issues could be injected into the car, just by taking the engine in and out. One guy had a P219a issue, they did the fix (TSB 01-177-16) and he got the car back with clutch issues, he then had to fight that. All this is not what I bought a new car for, I don't care how good it handles. Now I have to seriously think about the major investment in aftermarket equipment that I just made in this vehicle if it's going to sh*t a code that means the engine needs to be dropped. So, instead of looking at enjoying a boosted vehicle the only thing I can look forward to is if and when it is going to sh*t that code. How am I going to get out of FI purchase? Knew I shouldn't have done it. I have an old OBD Scanner in the garage. I may have seen the check engine light on for a second, but who knows. If it trapped a P0300 or P219a code, I am seriously pissed! Addendum: No codes yet. Can't have any fun! F-Bomb! I hope TylerLieberman is correct, but right now I have no confidence. Last edited by firekat; 06-13-2018 at 04:20 PM. |
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06-14-2018, 12:52 PM | #33 | |
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Keep your maintenance documents in order and stay alert to any signs of failure (codes, really odd noises, weird behavior) and react if (it ever) has this problem. |
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06-15-2018, 02:23 PM | #34 |
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@firekat is this a timebomb?? If the valves clearance are too tight then the issue will appear sooner rather than later. This isn't something that will occur in 6 months unless you drive 2 miles a day.
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06-15-2018, 02:33 PM | #35 |
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Glad you got everything sorted out, That 7 year 100,000k warranty is nice. I paid like 2500 for mine to be covered for 5 year/60000k... >..> Which i don't have no more cuz i drove the car like i stole it 20k a year...
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The Following User Says Thank You to chaoskaze For This Useful Post: | Clutch (06-15-2018) |
02-15-2019, 09:55 AM | #36 |
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Had the same issue with my 2017 brz. First CEL came out with less than 500 miles and gone through the same repairs as the op. Unfortunately the CEL illuminates again after 2 months from the last repair. (Car has 10k miles now)
This got me thinking that as of now, subaru doesn’t have a permanent fix for this issue yet. |
02-25-2019, 09:35 AM | #37 | |
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I do hope you were joking, and and that you wouldn’t seriously consider just passing the problem onto another unsuspecting member of our 86 owners community? Personally I couldn’t live with myself doing that to someone else, especially when it is the dealer’s problem to sort out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02-25-2019, 11:59 AM | #38 | |
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First off, I doubt that I would trade a car in over a P0300 code. I really don't know why I said that. As I mentioned, my Saturn has done this (P0300) twice and I figured it just hiccupped, so I erased the code and kept on keeping on. Even if I decided to "trade it in", that doesn't necessarily mean it would be bought by a "unsuspecting member of our 86 owners community". Trading in implies that it would be sold to a dealer. That is quite admirable of you, not wanting to sell a car with a problem, without enlightening to buyer of the problem - humfrz |
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02-25-2019, 01:07 PM | #39 |
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Brand New 2018 BRZ - Check Engine Light at 85 Miles
Thank you for the warm welcome humfrz.
I wasn’t trying to pass judgement as such, just thought you probably didn’t mean it and it just wasn’t clear from what you said. Such is communication by text alone. I’ve never heard of a Saturn before, is it an American model? I’ve had the CEL come on a couple of tunes right after starting it up when it’s been very cold (hovering just below freezing) but if only flickered in and disappeared so I assumed it was the cold weather. Since having a Cobra decat sports exhaust and an HKS s/c fitted I always start the engine and give it at least 60 secs running before I start off. I used to do it when I rode motorcycles as well and find it’s good practice to let the oil circulate and pressures build up before putting any load on the engine. I just take the time to make sure my phone is connected properly and get music paying through my Apple CarPlay so it’s an easy routine to get into. It also means that I don’t end up half way down the road only to find that I need to mess with my mobile, meaning I end up tempted to try and start doing things with my phone while driving. Good luck with yours, and I hope you don’t see any more errors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02-25-2019, 02:16 PM | #40 |
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Saturn was GMs version of Scion with Toyota.
They're out of business now as well. One of the biggest selling points for Saturn was an automatic transmission that could be towed behind huge motorhomes for the snowbird set. My folks had one they towed back and forth to Arizona and points beyond. Totally unimpressive as drivers cars, but adequate for people moving.
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02-25-2019, 02:40 PM | #41 | |
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I had an 1994 SC for a couple of years, wouldn't say it was a driver's car, but it wasn't awful. It also had a "useless" back seat similar to the FRS. Plus it had pop-up headlights and a spoiler, so sports car....
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