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01-22-2021, 09:38 PM | #15 | |
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So i tried unplugging maf sensor, got nothing. The ecu is well grounded. How do I check map sensor pressure? I’ve looked at a few ways to do it. Wasn’t sure if there was specific way on these cars. Once again one thing I get when cranking engine is it’ll backfire. I’m assuming maybe cause there being fuel and spark but car not starting |
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01-23-2021, 09:26 AM | #16 | |
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Are you certain that you have the coil packs wired correctly on each side of the engine and not have them reversed? You can swap the connectors between each set of coils on each side to test this. |
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01-23-2021, 10:33 AM | #17 | |
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Right! It does sound out of time but it’s all timed correctly followed the guide I mentioned. All my timing marks align correctly. I spun crank a bunch of times and my marks always align correctly never got off. As far as the coil packs I can try to swap them around but it seems the way my wiring harness comes down it’s almost not possible to put them In the wrong spot hahah anyways when I checked for spark I checked each coil pack and spark plug. Every single one of them was sparking when cranked and had metal touching it. Unless there’s a such thing as weak spark? I’m not sure at this rate |
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01-23-2021, 12:58 PM | #18 | |
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Okay we’re going to figure this out, but first let’s back up a bit. Answer these questions for me: You said you purchased this ‘13 FR-S. Are you the original owner from day one, or did you purchase it used from a dealer, auction, wrecking yard, private seller, etc.? Please specify where. |
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01-23-2021, 02:07 PM | #19 | |
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01-23-2021, 02:33 PM | #20 | |
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You bought it from someone that you knew, got it. Did you ever get to drive it or ride in it while she owned it? Were you the one that was driving it when the engine spun the bearing, or was she the one, or did you purchase the car from her as a project because it wasn't running? And not meaning to get personal here, (remember I'm just gathering information) are you and her still seeing each other and if not, are you two still on good terms? |
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01-23-2021, 03:16 PM | #21 | |
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Of course man! Just giving you some background on myself! Haha but yes the car was regularly maintained. I’ve rode with her few times the car was daily. Mainly highway miles. Car wasn’t dogged out. She got an oil change and then she was driving car started knocking and it was towed to dealership. They started it snd it was knocking told her needed engine replaced. Was out of her budget I then acquired car from her. Before this the car ran very good never had any issues that anyone was aware of. We are still on good terms |
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01-23-2021, 06:24 PM | #22 | |
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ok posdibly somthing mechanicall then |
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01-24-2021, 08:51 PM | #23 | |
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Okay, so we can safely say that it was completely stock when the engine developed the knock and that it did not have any modifications made to it, and then returned to stock before it was sold to you and that it does not have an aftermarket tune, and it wasn’t sold to you by a jaded ex-girlfriend who decided to sabotage the fuel system before selling her car to you, and who doesn’t also have a new beau who hates you who may have decided to sabotage it himself knowing that be can never be half the man her ex was. Got it. How long was the car sitting before you finally got it up and ready to start? Just thinking that possibly your fuel may have gone bad or has been contaminated or maybe something has plugged up the injectors. Are you sure you have the fuel lines connected in the engine bay properly (you don’t have the return line connected to the supply line and vice versa)? Perhaps it’s time for you to figure out how to start posting pictures here to give us some references to look at. |
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01-25-2021, 08:25 AM | #24 | |
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01-25-2021, 11:06 AM | #25 | |
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Okay, so fuel lines are correct but you're not sure if the fuel that was in the tank was still good. Normally, four months would be okay as long as your tank and lines were sealed and slightly pressurized so that air cannot infiltrate into the system and the fuel can't evaporate out. This is a stupid question: Did you prime the pump before trying to crank the engine? Here's my suggestion before you go any further: Disconnect your supply line in the engine bay and pump out what you can into a fuel container and set that aside. Then add a few gallons of fresh premium fuel, prime the pump by turning the key to the ON position then back to OFF about 10 times and then try starting again. Did you ever try swapping the low voltage sides of your ignition coils? How about your injector connectors, could they be accidentally swapped causing them to inject at the incorrect times? What gets me is that when you try spraying starting fluid in the intake, it doesn't even fire then, and you say you have good compression. If you have fuel, air, compression and spark then you should get an explosion. That's the four main requirements right there. It still sounds to me like your ignition timing is off as If you're firing on the exhaust stroke. |
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01-25-2021, 01:27 PM | #26 | |
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Op states he is positive he has fuel, Spark, Valve timing is correct. He has everything needed to run. there has to be something happening at the wrong time. I don’t remember when I did my flywheel but can you get that on 180 out? |
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01-25-2021, 08:24 PM | #27 | |
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Okay so tell me what y’all think. I took my air intake off the car and sprayed starter fluid at throttle body. Had my girlfriend crank the car and it literally shot fire straight out! Super wild! So I got to thinking is there anyway possible I put the heads on backwards??? Would that even work?? I followed this guide to the absolute T! https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...87902-5448.pdf Not once, not twice, but three times! I know there is no way in hell I installed it incorrectly unless I’m 360 out some how... but how would I even know I was 360 out?? I did timing and cranked the crank a million times never once got outta line or anything. So honestly could I have put the heads on wrong? Is that even possible?? Or am I just tripping?? What’s y’all’s input.... |
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01-25-2021, 08:57 PM | #28 | |
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Well, you wouldn’t ever be able to install the heads backwards seeing how your cam sprockets need to be towards the front of the engine, but I suppose it MIGHT be possible to swap the heads from passenger’s side to driver’s side, but I highly doubt that Subaru would engineer that possibility into the design. I.E. the bolt patterns simply wouldn’t allow for that to be possible and you would be using the intake ports as exhaust ports and vice versa. You probably wouldn’t even be able to bolt the intake and exhaust manifolds on in that case. Someone with experience pulling these engines and heads here should be able to verify this as I have not had to do this personally. You’re getting flames shooting out the intake like it’s trying to fire on the exhaust stroke. That’s the classic symptom with a distributor-style ignition system when the distributor is rotated 180 degrees out of sync or the wires are connected to the cap in the wrong order. Perhaps you’ve got your intake and exhaust cam sensors swapped? I’m running out of ideas. |
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