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Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps. |
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10-06-2015, 05:16 PM | #15 |
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Love how you documented your build and your thought process(so I know you are not made of money or an idiot either). My main concern is the weight and balance of the car..do you have any numbers or thoughts on that?
Great job!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Swift For This Useful Post: | Manji (10-11-2015) |
10-06-2015, 08:19 PM | #16 | |
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Re:balance. I've got an idea of where it's sitting but want to wait till I've corner weighed it. Problem is, I've since moved out of the city into a regional area, and the local tyre places don't have what I need. Tempted to buy some corner scales for myself just seems a waste when I'm just doing it for one weigh. I intend on going back to the city for Xmas and then I can take it back to the place I weighed it when it was stock. Based on weighing the components that went in and out, I reckon I've picked up about the same weight as a stock 86 with a FI kit. My box weighs more, but its a shit ton stronger. But I've also got lighter brakes and front wheels. I could've not put in air con, but I wanted it. (I think I'm the only motor swap that has all OEM features working, aids/cruise/PS/AC etc etc) When I weighed it bone stock (I have the base model with 16" wheels etc) it was 1198kg with a quarter tank. Say 1180kg without fuel. I'm fairly confident I'm in the 1220-1250kg bracket now. Balance I don't suspect to have moved a great deal. Larger box and axles etc. Even if it has say 20-30kg heavier over the front axle than it was, it would be a better driver than I to feel it. And if I was that worried about 20-30kg then I could stand to loose 20kg myself. Ha ha. Truth be told it handled like a dog in the video I posted the other day. The spring rate is too firm, going to go softer. The dampers I didnt even check their setting. And what I think was having the most effect, the swaybars are still sitting in my garage. |
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10-06-2015, 08:21 PM | #17 |
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I was looking at you pics again and I may have missed if you mentioned it, but did you keep the OEM power steering? In one of your pics I saw a container at the front of the engine driver's side (?) that reminded me of a power steering reservoir?
Also, really to bad your tuner is not making that wiring harness for sale. I'd think there would be a nice market for it. I'm seriously considering following your path once I finish my graduate program. |
10-06-2015, 08:44 PM | #18 | |
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10-06-2015, 09:19 PM | #19 |
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Ah, thanks. It's the 5th pic after your alignment specs sheet pic on your FB page.
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10-06-2015, 09:32 PM | #20 |
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10-06-2015, 10:36 PM | #21 |
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That makes sense. I was curious about the engine bay color difference, but thought it was a mock up setup.
I saw your dyno of this block and remember reading somewhere this block was good for 300-330 NA whp? That dyno showed 230 whp. If it's not proprietary, what's your plan to getting to 300? |
10-06-2015, 10:52 PM | #22 |
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Sounds incredible, very well done!
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10-06-2015, 11:03 PM | #23 | |
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Here's a comparison dyno between the two. Sorry don't have a better copy, was just a screen shot from a phone. Tells a few stories. Numbers aside, you can see the gains are significant. Look at the power I have at 3200rpm, pretty much peak fa20 power. Problem with chasing a peak hp number (I'm not, I always wanted driveability) is that you need revs. HP is torque times revs. Hard to make one without the other etc. To make say 100 more whp, it just needs to rev more. Head work and cam work etc. We measured this the other week and looks as if could only get about another 8 degrees of duration in the cams before fouling, hardly worth it. So that means would have to do a different piston design to do headwork that would be worth it. So now its a $15k exercise, which ruins the whole point of using the 1uz in the first place. Its a different car to drive now. Where as it used to be like a sewing machine, keep revs high or else, now I don't have to wait for the power, its there in the revs where you spend 98% of driving. Sure I'd love it to rev to 8000rpm and make 400whp but then it wont be as smooth down low. More so, it'll cost far too much money. It would be cheaper to turbo it (if chasing a number), but that seems like such a waste with regards to the headers. Here's a local guy's 1uz turbo setup. vs his previous worked sr20 setup. You can see the huge differnce in torque, but the hp doesn't show anywhere near the same, because different rev ranges. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Manji For This Useful Post: | CxG (10-09-2015) |
10-08-2015, 10:50 AM | #24 |
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awesome work man keep it up. Do you know how much heavier that 1uz is than the fa20? did it throw off the handling of the car or is it barely noticeable
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10-08-2015, 03:17 PM | #25 |
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It handled like a dog last time I drove it, but I'm putting that down to the fact the swaybars weren't in. I want to get them in and see how it feels.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Manji For This Useful Post: | CxG (10-09-2015) |
10-08-2015, 05:34 PM | #26 |
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So it would be reasonable to say, outside of cams, your current power level is about capped without getting into an expensive build (NA or FI) for your motor?
If so, does this make the new positive displacement blowers (edlebrock, Harrop) look like a reasonable alternative cost/performance wise? |
10-08-2015, 07:59 PM | #27 | |
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