FRS fogs using BRZ stalk

[b$m1th91]

Ok so I got the harness in finally. The relay has a direct battery fused power lead(30), 87 has the fog light power lead going from relay to h11 sockets,86 has the ground from the fog lights to it and a ground for the relay(so it is the ground for the relay and also grounds fog lights), and the last port 85 has the button wire. The button has two wires which are combined into one that connects to the wire coming from relay 85(so 85 is the button on the relay),then there is a red wire with no fuse that ties into a power source such as the battery, and lastly there is a ground wire for the button.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by b$m1th91

Ok so I got the harness in finally. The relay has a direct battery fused power lead(30), 87 has the fog light power lead going from relay to h11 sockets,86 has the ground from the fog lights to it and a ground for the relay(so it is the ground for the relay and also grounds fog lights), and the last port 85 has the button wire. The button has two wires which are combined into one that connects to the wire coming from relay 85(so 85 is the button on the relay),then there is a red wire with no fuse that ties into a power source such as the battery, and lastly there is a ground wire for the button.

That ground wire on your switch is to provide ground for the switch's light.

[b$m1th91]

So I could tie the white wire into the ground correct?

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by b$m1th91

So what i am wondering from this diagram is, wouldn't there constantly be power running through the relay because the switch just grounds the circuit rather than provide the power source??

Google "BRZ Wiring Diagram". You will see that a lot of the systems (headlights, tail lights, horn, etc) are set up like that (Negative trigger). Power will not be "running" to the relay if the circuit is not complete. After reading the wiring diagram, you should have a better understanding.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by b$m1th91

So I could tie the white wire into the ground correct?

No.

That ground is NOT A SWITCHED GROUND. It is constant, to provide ground to the bulb inside your switch. If you tap that to the white wire, the indicator will light up regardless of the switch position.

[b$m1th91]

So I should tie the white wire to the switch wire running to the relay because there is no power there until I press the button

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by b$m1th91

So I should tie the white wire to the switch wire running to the relay because there is no power there until I press the button

No.

Since you insist on using your positive trigger diagram, you can't tap your positive switch wire to the white wire.

[camelflage]

[b$m1th91]

I finally had time to configure the relay diagram showing exactly how the harness i ordered is setup.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by b$m1th91

I finally had time to configure the relay diagram showing exactly how the harness i ordered is setup.

That diagram is FAIL You're feeding ground to both ends of the coil

I'm assuming your switch is a positive trigger. You can add a second relay to convert that trigger wire to negative.

85 and 30 to ground
86 to the trigger wire on the first relay
87 to the white wire pin 24

[bpracer]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

That diagram is FAIL You're feeding ground to both ends of the coil

I'm assuming your switch is a positive trigger. You can add a second relay to convert that trigger wire to negative.

85 and 30 to ground
86 to the trigger wire on the first relay
87 to the white wire pin 24

You sure??

He isn't using the stalk switch so I don't see why this won't work. I'm just basing this on the other diagrams that the pin out of the relay is correct. The ground in his switch is for switch illumination. He is using a positive trigger not a negative trigger.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by bpracer

You sure??

He isn't using the stalk switch so I don't see why this won't work. I'm just basing this on the other diagrams that the pin out of the relay is correct. The ground in his switch is for switch illumination. He is using a positive trigger not a negative trigger.

The last diagram he posted has the switch outputting a negative signal, and with 85 grounded, the coil won't be energized. However I'm assuming he just made a mistake and his switch is actually a positive trigger, so I pointed out that he could ad a second relay to convert that positive trigger to negative, allowing him to ground the white wire/pin 24

[bpracer]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

The last diagram he posted has the switch outputting a negative signal, and with 85 grounded, the coil won't be energized. However I'm assuming he just made a mistake and his switch is actually a positive trigger, so I pointed out that he could ad a second relay to convert that positive trigger to negative, allowing him to ground the white wire/pin 24

Ah yes, I see the ground path in his switch now. If that switch diagram is accurate it won't work. His switch must supply a 12 volt signal to the relay for the rest to work.

[b$m1th91]

The 12v dash illumination wire will actually be to a power source such as ignition switch. this is a positive output relay because terminal 87 the output terminal is the red or power wire to the fogs and is powered from direct battery current. The reason the ground from the fogs goes to the terminal is because rather than the fogs be grounded individually, they are grounded via the relay. Yes this is a positive trigger setup.

Note: I bought this harness, i did not make it and how the switch is internally wired may not look exactly like this diagram i got off the internet and edited to my setup.