PERRIN PSRS P.S.R.S. offset PICTURES

[gmookher]

'nother item that I will put on soon
This is a replacement for the jumbo rear bushing in the lower front control arm. Even when replaced by a polyurethane unit - this jumbo bushing has so much flex that it allows caster and toe changes under hard acceleration, braking, and cornering. This does not yield the most stable feeling front end in the world. The Perrin PSRS replaces this bushing with an aluminum housing holding a spherical bearing. That means NO flexing of this suspension mount and therefore no changes in toe or caster under any sort of pressures. . .

The PSRS is available in two versions. The "stock" version which is a direct replacement of the stock bushing that does not change the static suspension geometry - just keeps it from flexing and changing under load. The second version uses an offset bushing that adds more caster to the front end for better turn-in response. this corrects caster change from lowering or coilovers.

[Huehuecoyotl]

So I finally got around to installing these, you need to use a press, so off to the shop I go.

Pretty tight, had to bust out the BFH.

There is the issue of me being a complete dumass with the ball joint fork, and nicking, ok, ripping, the rubber boot, so BE CAREFUL, I got one side off fine, and then had to kick myself for this stupidity.


Off to the dealer to score a new ball joint, as it appears my ripped boot isnt sold separate:
20206CA000=SU00300358= 43330K & 43340A, both scion p/n are the same Subie part, should be under $30-$40

Track specific Alignment & Driving review to follow as soon as I correct my mistake!

[Touge Monster]

Let me know how you like em I was thinking about getting these or just waiting for a full front lca replacement.

[GC_Adam]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

There is the issue of me being a complete dumass with the ball joint fork, and nicking, ok, ripping, the rubber boot, so BE CAREFUL, I got one side off fine, and then had to kick myself for this stupidity.

Off to the dealer to score a new ball joint, as it appears my ripped boot isnt sold separate:
20206CA000=SU00300358= 43330K & 43340A, both scion p/n are the same Subie part, should be under $30-$40

You can pick up generic ball joint/tie rod end boots boots from most speed shops. The most common would be made by Energy Suspension.

[Huehuecoyotl]

nah,thanks tho Adam, at $23 for a new one from subaru, I'm ready to rock-n-roll!

[Huehuecoyotl]

got my ball joint, d'oh! for sure be careful when using the prong tool to take the oe apart, the oe balll joints are new, not the same as whats on any other imprezza or wrx, and the boots are indeed delicate compared to last years- call it weight savings perhaps?

here is my alignment after PSRS installation as well as adding the GC camber hats(and coilovers!), both before and after snaps have PSRS installed, didnt get to shoot a snap of it before, but my caster was around 6.3 after lowering on oe LCA bushes

some tweaking of ride height took place on the rack too, if you look closely at the printout you see it on the rear end

my local shop with a press took under a half hour to press them in, clocked with 'out' markings towards the spindles and with writing visible when lying on your back under the car

I was surprised how symmetrically the rear end cambered up using *just* the H&R bolts Chris at Perrin sold me, feels like I can save a bunch of money I would have otherwise spent on rear lower camber links. -2.0 rear camber is a hair more more than I wanted (for the highway driving I do a half degree less would have been fine), but just fine for track. I can dial it down if it presents a problem, dont have camber kit installed yet in the back end. What do you all think, do I need it for track use?

Front is toed out 1/32 or 0.1 degree.
rear is toed in 1/32 or 0.1 degree

On the front end, the reading on driver was 2.5L with me in the car, it sat 2.4L+R on both sides equal without me in it. I'm good with it, sure it can be fine tuned but I was there a while.

This is about the limit using the GC camber plates alone i can go another .2 if that on both sides before they are max'd out, I can gain even more to get to -3.0 each side if I put back my WL camber bolts but I think this should be okay for road and track up front where it is.

I will get some pics of the car with the new tires up on my build thread

steering is noticeably more precise, especially under hard braking, there is more feedback from the steering and front end in general. Not annoyingly so, but there is sensation where there wasnt. I like them. Thanks @PERRIN

[OmarGC]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

I was surprised how symmetrically the rear end cambered up using *just* the H&R bolts Chris at Perrin sold me, feels like I can save a bunch of money I would have otherwise spent on rear lower camber links. -2.0 rear camber is a hair more more than I wanted (for the highway driving I do a half degree less would have been fine), but just fine for track. I can dial it down if it presents a problem, dont have camber kit installed yet in the back end. What do you all think, do I need it for track

Had no idea you could run camber bolts in the rear.... How much adjustment do you have and what's the part number for the bolts?

[Huehuecoyotl]

Originally Posted by OmarGC

Had no idea you could run camber bolts in the rear.... How much adjustment do you have and what's the part number for the bolts?

Perrins got them for sale in stock, iirc they were TC114's. there is a wonky spacer you end up using but it locks down just fine.

They are a lobed eccentric you can run in the innermost LCA hole to gain some control over rear camber. I can dial it back too, really didnt mess with it this round, if tire wear presents an issue I will scale it back, I suppose theres a half degree of adjustment there all in all. Not bad for easy and cheap, huh! Mad thanks to Perrin, good look on this!

Omar, your suspension isnt too shabby either, tho I am not 100% dialed in on rear spring rate, its VERY promising so far, and I am admittedly not easy to please, and make a generally whiney and finicky customer!

[OmarGC]

Spoke with Chris and he said the 112's are the ones I should need and they'll have to be modified to work and I should be able to get 2 degrees of adjustment out of em

[Huehuecoyotl]

Originally Posted by OmarGC

Spoke with Chris and he said the 112's are the ones I should need and they'll have to be modified to work and I should be able to get 2 degrees of adjustment out of em

yeah, maybe those were it then, I wasnt sure of the p/n, and yup, maybe its more adjustment than I initially thought-,and yes there was some grinding needed to make it all fit, but nothing nutty, or memorable really, for that matter. It seems to be good for me so far, just for the guys who are doing this 1st time, make sure you set and lock things down at ride height for bushing health when installing these bolts.

[PERRIN_Chris]

Hey guys, just want to clarify on the rear camber bolts. H&R makes two camber bolts that can fit in the rear of our cars. The TC 112 bolts will fit in the lower mounts, which are easy to get to, but they have to be modified to fit. H&R doesn't recommend doing this, because it could affect the strength of the bolt. Using these alone will be able to get most customers to around -1.5 camber.
@OmarGC I was wrong about +-2 degrees, it's a lot less than that, sorry! More like +-.5 or so.

The TC 114 will fit in the upper control arm connections, but they are really hard to get to, and are very difficult to install.

Hope that helps you guys!

[enjoyminutemaid]

Originally Posted by PERRIN_Chris

Hey guys, just want to clarify on the rear camber bolts. H&R makes two camber bolts that can fit in the rear of our cars. The TC 112 bolts will fit in the lower mounts, which are easy to get to, but they have to be modified to fit...

Are there instructions anywhere about how the bolts need to be modified to fit?

[PERRIN_Chris]

We don't have any instructions, but you can PM me with your email and I can send you a picture of what needs to be done to the bolt to make it work.

[Kiwi]

Does the extra caster make the wheel heavier? And how much more steering feedback would you say it gives if stock is a 5 on a scale of 1(less)-10(more).