SCCA Solo D Street discussion

[cmiovino]

I just jumped to 35/33 mid-event, during a points event because of how crappy I felt the lower pressures were. Zero testing. It's always hard to 100% confirm if there's mechanically more grip unless you're doing skidpad testing, but confidence and feel-wise, it at least allowed me to hold speed more, which netted better times.

35/35 would probably give a hair more rotation, which would ultimately be quicker for a lot of people. I prefer a car that understeers a bit more, probably because I ran a WRX for years before this.

[MacSpeed]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeMike

Just for fun, one day at the end of the event, or during fun runs if your region does them...try cranking it up to 35/35 for a run after running all day at the lower pressures. I'd be interested in your feedback!

Mike

I started there actually because that's what I ran on my GS Si. Kept going down and car kept getting better and temps more even.

I've jumped ship to STR either way.

[kraftyone]

Anyone running whiteline 20mm front bar and koni yellows? Thoughts on performance. Trying to decide if I want to build for DS or spend the money and move to STX

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[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by kraftyone

Trying to decide if I want to build for DS or spend the money and move to STX

My only comment on the Whiteline bar is from my research, I found a few posts of Whiteline bars specifically contacting the front control arms. Could have been the endlinks they were using, but it was always a Whiteline bar.

STX vs DS, it really boils down to your goals and local region. If you're going to be happy coming in mid-pack in a highly competitive region, or possibly getting higher up in a less competitive region, a first gen (like I think yours is) is cool to run. Or if you're just in it for fun / experience. It's basically like playing a video game on hard mode when others are on easy mode.

But if you have a ton of CTRs and 2nd gens fully setup with decent or better drivers, good luck with a first gen anymore. STX is the ticket if you want to be competitive then.

I ran CS back in 2020, then DS in 2021 and 2022. Hoping to move to STX this year or the next due to the reasons above.

[kraftyone]

My local region is very competitive in DS. Most guys are running 22 twins and several of the guys run raw times that almost equal cars in STR. Myself I want to be competitive in what ever class I am in bit I also know with this being my first year the driver is holding the car back. Long term I would probably be closer to the top in STX.

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[foshjowler]

With the nationally competitive 2nd gen guys getting softer and softer front bars, I'm starting to wonder if the answer is a slightly stiffer rear bar, I'm thinking Whiteline 16mm, to kill the factory understeer of the car. I've been running 2-4 psi higher rear pressures, but that's been coming at the cost of being able to put power down. Maybe I'm overthinking things, but a little stiffer rear bar to help rotate the car and lower rear pressures to help put power down sounds like a good combo to me. Then the Koni fronts to maybe dial in the front in either direction. I'm not particularly willing to spend MCS money, so I've been waiting on the Konis.

[kraftyone]

I am struggling to decide which direction to go with my first gen car.

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[justinco]

Originally Posted by foshjowler

... to kill the factory understeer of the car...

Factory understeer? Must be a BRZ thing...GR86 rotates just fine from the factory...

[foshjowler]

Originally Posted by justinco

Factory understeer? Must be a BRZ thing...GR86 rotates just fine from the factory...

It's a mid-corner understeer, getting rotation on corner exit has never been the problem. The idea is that I can kill the mid-corner understeer with the sway bar, and lower the rear tire pressure to help put power down on exit.

[otter]

It's also surface dependent. I'm on Koni yellows, Karcepts v1 front bar on the softest setting, and 0 toe all around - I can get the car to rotate well and power out of corners without plowing when on low grip asphalt. Take the same setup to a high grip concrete site and the car just won't rotate except for a bit of lift-off rotation on corner entry. Eagerly awaiting the v2 bar.

[kraftyone]

Last autocross of the year fastest run of the day.

[foshjowler]

The NC Autocross Championship was this weekend. NCCAR is one of my favorite sites. Pavement is very grippy and it lends itself to fast, flowing courses. It was also the first event with the new rear bar. Ended up going with the Perrin 16mm and putting it in the softest position, 30% stiffer than stock. Dropped the rear pressures down 4 psi and raised the front 1, now running 35/32 F/R pressures. The car felt amazing, and did exactly what I wanted it to all day. Was super easy to help steer the car with the throttle through sweepers and it didn't seem to make the car worse in any way. I'm going to wait to make a final judgement once I've done a few events at sites with different pavement, but so far I'm super happy with the car.

Ended up 8th PAX on day one and 4th day two. Of course, the guy who won FTP by like a second was also in DS (I knew I wasn't beating him coming into the weekend), so only second in class, but I was closer to him than I have been in the past.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by foshjowler

With the nationally competitive 2nd gen guys getting softer and softer front bars, I'm starting to wonder if the answer is a slightly stiffer rear bar, I'm thinking Whiteline 16mm, to kill the factory understeer of the car. I've been running 2-4 psi higher rear pressures, but that's been coming at the cost of being able to put power down. Maybe I'm overthinking things, but a little stiffer rear bar to help rotate the car and lower rear pressures to help put power down sounds like a good combo to me. Then the Koni fronts to maybe dial in the front in either direction. I'm not particularly willing to spend MCS money, so I've been waiting on the Konis.

A stiffer rear will make it harder to put power down regardless of what you do with pressures. Bar changes are fundamentally a bigger adjustment than pressures.

It will also promote more inside rear wheel lift which will create problems with your diff, which only works if the inside wheel still has some traction available. If the inside gets lifted off the ground enough, a Torsen turns into an open diff.

You might be better off trying to drive around the understeer. That's part of the challenge of street class. If you want a perfect balance, come to STX where you can fix that properly.

[foshjowler]

Tire sizing question, does a 245/45-17 RE71RS fit without rubbing? I have 7mm spacers coming for stock offset wheels, but not positive I won't still have issues. My thought is I want the mph from the taller tire over a 245/40. The other option is 235/45 as I think the mph will offset any width disadvantage on many courses.