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Old 07-25-2012, 01:49 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Snaps View Post
Wrong... A pulley can still be unbalanced without the shape of the material being the cause. Think of the reason you get a wheel balanced when you change tyres - it's to make sure the whole wheel is balanced around the central axis. A poorly balanced wheel can shudder and vibrate while driving, it can also reduce the life of things like wheel bearings and suspension bushes as a result... However, due to the relatively small inertia of the pulley compared to the crank, and the fact that the pulley is probably not far out of balance in the first place, it shouldn't matter.
Let me amend my statement: people should stop talking about crank pulley balance. Nearly every time a person uses crank pulley and balance in the same sentence they are referring to a harmonic dampener, not to the actual balance around the central axis.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by sportsguy83 View Post
Perrin's instructions call for oiling it.
Then we have no problem.

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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Let me amend my statement: people should stop talking about crank pulley balance. Nearly every time a person uses crank pulley and balance in the same sentence they are referring to a harmonic dampener, not to the actual balance around the central axis.
It was really just to clear it up for anyone unsure about this kind of stuff. I didn't mean to come off as aggressive, if I did - I'm only trying to make sure noone does any damage to themselves or their brand new car! I know there are a lot of people on these forums that have very little mechanical knowledge or experience, and so making sure everyone is using correct terminology, and that everything is explained well (as with this DIY), along with giving good information, is important to keep everyone safe...
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:40 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Jayde View Post
Wow, compared to my friend's Si that we'll be changing that crank pulley on, this is a breeze! Thanks for the write up!
Ugh, don't remind me. The crank, alternator, and idler pulleys were royal pains. That crank bolt was FIERCE, I think I suffered some permanent hearing damage from hearing that damn thing pop off. I think I tried putting it in 6th on the Si and didn't have any better luck. I do know I ended up with a cat-claw in the flywheel to get it to bust.

I can imagine it already, "hey man, want to help me do the crank pulley in THIS car?" "Oh no, not again..." "No, really, it's a lot easier I promise!"
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:58 AM   #26
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lol... edit your post where you quoted the WHHOLE thing.. and remove the images so this is readable.
done

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Old 07-25-2012, 03:11 AM   #27
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What i use at work is a chain wrench and you can find them at your local parts store (for any one having problems taking the crank bolt off)

Recommend placing a old belt or rubber hose around the journals of the pulley to protect it from damage.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #28
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I saw in the Perrin instructions that it should be torqued to the same value you posted, however the manual says 14.5lbs-ft , then tighten an additional 90*. Anyone know which to go with? I assume turning it an additional 90* brings the force to nearly the same amount, but....

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I suspect they are virtually equivalent. Or at least I hope so. Not all torque wrenches go up to 90 lbs-ft. For instance the one I have only goes to 80 lbs-ft. So what I'm going to do is dial it in to 14.5 lbs-ft and then do another 90 degree turn as the manual states. I will be doing this install sometime this week. I'll post if I have issues.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:26 AM   #29
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When doing mine the other day, the part that the pulley rides on came out. Let me tell you, it was a bitch to put back. there is a notch on the back of it that needs to be lined up, and has no wiggle room. Once it slides out a 1/2", then you got a problem. Be very careful to make sure this doesn't happen.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:37 PM   #30
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Well done!
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:45 PM   #31
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Did you get that from TiTAN by any chance?

I sent him my money but later found that he got banned which would explain the lack of communication from a otherwise really quick to respond vendor.

have any contact info I could use?
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:27 PM   #32
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anyone in socal that has done this mod that can helped me do mine???its been a month since i received my pulley i already try 3 times to take off the stock pulley but i cant.the stock pulley keeps rotating everytime id try get it loose.ive done everything right,car in 6th gear,ebrake,brakes but the stock pulley rotates so i cant get it loose helpppppp
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:52 PM   #33
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anyone in socal that has done this mod that can helped me do mine???its been a month since i received my pulley i already try 3 times to take off the stock pulley but i cant.the stock pulley keeps rotating everytime id try get it loose.ive done everything right,car in 6th gear,ebrake,brakes but the stock pulley rotates so i cant get it loose helpppppp
I spent about two hours trying to loosen the stock pulley. My mistake was, I was not setting the e-brake hard ebough and the crank kept rotating. Also, use a long breaker bar, set that e-brake very firm and 6th gear and turn it. It will work.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:58 PM   #34
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anyone in socal that has done this mod that can helped me do mine???its been a month since i received my pulley i already try 3 times to take off the stock pulley but i cant.the stock pulley keeps rotating everytime id try get it loose.ive done everything right,car in 6th gear,ebrake,brakes but the stock pulley rotates so i cant get it loose helpppppp
im in cerritos, just installed mine last night.

though it wasnt easy, i was able to do it in under 30 min.

I usually gets home around 8, let me know if you want to bring your car by.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:59 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by sportsguy83 View Post
I spent about two hours trying to loosen the stock pulley. My mistake was, I was not setting the e-brake hard ebough and the crank kept rotating. Also, use a long breaker bar, set that e-brake very firm and 6th gear and turn it. It will work.
like i said im doin everything right.but my stock pulley rotates way too much idk why
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:38 PM   #36
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How long is the breaker bar you are using?
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:12 PM   #37
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I did mine the other day. The vast majority of what I did was the same as the OP's. The biggest difference though is that I didn't need to remove the filter box or sensor, only the intake tube.

My list of tools was sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, and 22mm. Also a ratchet, short extension, and a breaker bar. You may also need needle nose pliers to remove the PCV tube from the intake tube. Oh, and of course a small amount of oil.
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:59 AM   #38
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Also, make sure the O ring doesn't slip off.
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:45 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Enigmus View Post


Get some motor oil and grease up the threads and flat surface of the bolt head before inserting back into the pulley.
Great DIY! I wonder if you could use anti-sieze on the crank pulley bolt instead of motor oil. [Speaking here from the land of road salt and sand.]
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:14 PM   #40
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like i said im doin everything right.but my stock pulley rotates way too much idk why
I had this problem as well. There's a simple solution that should solve your problems.

-Put the car in neutral
-Put the beaker bar with socket on the pulley
-Move the breaker bar as far CLOCKWISE as it will go
-Put the car in sixth
-Pull the breaker bar COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and you should have enough room to break the bolt loose even with the play in sixth

Good luck.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:37 PM   #41
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How long is the breaker bar you are using?
we tried 24" breaker (the longest avaliable at autozone). no help. he and i were going at it for at least an hour.

we think the problem is something his friend did to the car during his first attempt.

we crank the bolt so hard that the car even rotate while the bolt just stay dead on.

as a last resort, we even spray some WD40 on the bolt head flange hoping it would loosen it up... no luck.

im now thinking perhaps kroil might help...
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:40 PM   #42
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I had this problem as well. There's a simple solution that should solve your problems.

-Put the car in neutral
-Put the beaker bar with socket on the pulley
-Move the breaker bar as far CLOCKWISE as it will go
-Put the car in sixth
-Pull the breaker bar COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and you should have enough room to break the bolt loose even with the play in sixth

Good luck.

we tried something similar, like releasing the break and let the car roll for a bit in 6 to get a good grip... no luck... perhaps your methond is better and worth a try.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:42 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by wu_dot_com View Post
we tried 24" breaker (the longest avaliable at autozone). no help. he and i were going at it for at least an hour.

we think the problem is something his friend did to the car during his first attempt.

we crank the bolt so hard that the car even rotate while the bolt just stay dead on.

as a last resort, we even spray some WD40 on the bolt head flange hoping it would loosen it up... no luck.

im now thinking perhaps kroil might help...
WOW! Hope you get it done man! I went 2 hours on it LOL.... Got fed up and pulled the e-brake REALLY hard, and that was it... The car was moving a bit and pulling the e-brake hard was what made it for me... Good luck and report back when you finally pull through.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:44 PM   #44
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WOW! Hope you get it done man! I went 2 hours on it LOL.... Got fed up and pulled the e-brake REALLY hard, and that was it... The car was moving a bit and pulling the e-brake hard was what made it for me... Good luck and report back when you finally pull through.
Ya we have applied in excess of over 120 ft lb of torque on that bolt. That didn't even move one bit
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