Mike's 2022 BRZ

[ayau]

can you tell if engine is knocking with California 91? try putting 1-3 gallons of e85 to see if it knocks less? also curious if air/fuel runs in full time closed loop. would make adding e85 on factory tune a lot safer.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Still on the factory oil heat exchanger

Zero additional cooldown needed.

Sweet! Thanks for confirming.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Still on factory oil.

Yolo

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd need to hire a CANBUS expert to sniff and identify the relevant channels

If you plan to go to NorCal any time soon, I have 90% confidence I can do this part pretty quickly, for free

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

If you plan to go to NorCal any time soon, I have 90% confidence I can do this part pretty quickly, for free

It would literally take me more time to drive up to Norcal than to sniff the CANBUS myself. The resource that is lacking here, is time.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Only temp, and it's one bar that reads from 120F to 340F, so the resolution is quite garbage. Once we have a digital reading to equate to positions on the bar, it'll be more useful, but at the moment, nothing.

Are you saying this mode with a digital oil temp display on the left is not available on your 2022 BRZ?



It is like that in TheStraightPipes [1, at 8:06], SavageGeese [2, at 3:09] and Throttle House [3, at 4:07] reviews of GR 86.

[CSG Mike]

I've literally not even had time to RTFM. It's still in its packaging, shrink wrapped, in the glove compartment.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I've literally not even had time to RTFM. It's still in its packaging, shrink wrapped, in the glove compartment.

I can tell you that mode is NOT mentioned in the owner's manual for the BRZ.
(I just saved your time! )

But it only took me 1 minute to scroll through all the screens of gauge cluster when I checked the car out at the local dealership.
I just forgot to check the oil temp gauge specifically

[glamcem]

I wonder if that oil temp is the actual oil temp (tapped or put sensor that gets the reading) or a calculated/BS one based on an algorithm that uses the coolant temps it's really good if it's an actual one. I wonder how the track oil temps will be and if that OEM oil filter helps any (doubt it) as long as the oils are stable below (~240F) it should be fine I think .

I don't remember at what temperature the previous BRZ/GT86s start pulling the timing at..if the computer doesn't read the oil temps maybe it was based on Coolant Temps

[Butterballz]

I would love to see some oil pressure readings in the future.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I don't remember at what temperature the previous BRZ/GT86s start pulling the timing at..if the computer doesn't read the oil temps maybe it was based on Coolant Temps

I don't think it pulls much if any, here are my laps from 2nd afternoon session Oct 9 at New Hampshire Motor Speedway (South Oval config), 2nd lap (1st after outlap) (red) vs. 6th lap (green). Oil temp gradually gets up to ~272 indicated by lap 5 and never goes up from there. As you can see top speeds and acceleration are not reduced despite much higher oil temps. Lap 6 this session was my fastest lap of the weekend.
No way oil temps are based on coolant temps as my coolant temp always stabilizes quickly (225F I think?) and never moves from there, even while oil temp climbs up to 272F indicated (max 275F from datalogs)

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I wonder if that oil temp is the actual oil temp (tapped or put sensor that gets the reading) or a calculated/BS one based on an algorithm that uses the coolant temps
[...]
I don't remember at what temperature the previous BRZ/GT86s start pulling the timing at..if the computer doesn't read the oil temps maybe it was based on Coolant Temps

What makes you think it is/was calculated?
FA20 had an oil temp sensor, so should FA24.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by ZDan

No way oil temps are based on coolant temps as my coolant temp always stabilizes quickly (225F I think?) and never moves from there, even while oil temp climbs up to 272F indicated (max 275F from datalogs)

These engines are running too hot by the factory. Older engines had lower coolant temps, but they changed it for engine efficiency and fuel consumption. Not many people are using a lower temp thermostat here, but it helps on keeping temperatures down including the oil temps. Maybe it is a good idea for the new engine too.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

These engines are running too hot by the factory. Older engines had lower coolant temps, but they changed it for engine efficiency and fuel consumption. Not many people are using a lower temp thermostat here, but it helps on keeping temperatures down including the oil temps. Maybe it is a good idea for the new engine too.

If they were designed to run that hot, they’re not running too hot. Most OEM turbo DI cars run 250F nominal oil temp, reaching 300F in short intervals. Manufacturers have been doing this for over 15 years and it’s fine. You just need good oil.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

If they were designed to run that hot, they’re not running too hot. Most OEM turbo DI cars run 250F nominal oil temp, reaching 300F in short intervals. Manufacturers have been doing this for over 15 years and it’s fine. You just need good oil.

They started running them hotter around 2008. The older 2008 to 2010 engines (EJ255) had major knock issues due to trying to meet exhaust emissions on an engine block that was designed in the early 1990's, hence why they developed the FB20 and FB25. FA20 in our cars is a descendant of the FB20.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

These engines are running too hot by the factory.

???
Coolant temp goes to (I think) 225F and stays there, on the hottest days at the track. Oil temp goes to 272F and stays there. Neither creeps up and goes into runaway overheating. 225F isn't "too hot" for coolant, and 275F isn't "too hot" for decent 5w30 synthetic.