|
DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides For all DIYs. |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
08-13-2018, 06:14 PM | #85 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: Scion FR-S Series 10 #2462
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 871
Thanks: 3,029
Thanked 544 Times in 315 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Is the grease used just regular moly grease, or something proprietary? I know the little tube provided in the kit should be enough for all bushings, but just in case...
|
08-13-2018, 07:08 PM | #86 |
TRACKBREAD
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: 2013 BRZ
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,929
Thanks: 2,660
Thanked 4,024 Times in 1,895 Posts
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
|
08-13-2018, 08:33 PM | #87 | |
TRACKBREAD
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: 2013 BRZ
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,929
Thanks: 2,660
Thanked 4,024 Times in 1,895 Posts
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
DIY - Whiteline Rear Crossmember Mount Insert Bushings
Quote:
I used this, best stuff out there IMO: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN7B4I..._LmICBbCBJCYGS |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Yoshoobaroo For This Useful Post: | MJones_RB (08-13-2018) |
08-13-2018, 09:11 PM | #88 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Drives: 2016 Subaru BRZ
Location: Florida
Posts: 394
Thanks: 91
Thanked 195 Times in 115 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
https://www.amazon.com/LubriMatic-11.../dp/B000LNRY3M Get's the job done, doesn't cost much and is better than most everything else sold for automotive suspension. Quote:
|
||
The Following User Says Thank You to Trueweltall For This Useful Post: | MJones_RB (08-13-2018) |
04-11-2020, 03:31 AM | #89 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Drives: MY14 86 GTS Manual Velocity Orange
Location: Australia
Posts: 77
Thanks: 4
Thanked 49 Times in 26 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
did this upgrade today. this is not as easy a job as the instructions make out. I used this video as a guide also:
mine are all installed, torqued to spec and didn't cross thread anything. cross threading these bolts on the way back in would be way too easy - as others have found. my tips: get the car up on a stand (i used a quickjack), use a couple of bottle jacks to support the rear of the subframe and the front of the diff. have a trolley jack handy to help adjusting the control arms to align the subframe when putting the bolts back in. don't use power tools - just f$#ken don't. I used a breaker bar to release the bolts and normal ratchet when it was loose. When putting the bolts back in make sure to align the subframe with the chassis bolts per the video so you can hand thread the bolts back in. shine a torch up into the hole so you can see when it is all aligned properly. with adjusting I could hand tighten all of my bolts most of the way in before having to use hand tools. if you cannot get the bolts in 60% - 70% of the way by hand you need to back it out, adjust the subframe using the jacks, by hand pressure, or having someone lean on it with their foot, until you can get the bolts in by hand. ANY kind of resistance - back it out and adjust it so you can get it in 60% - 70% of the way. Have the subframe resting on the jacks and other subframe bolts that you're not working on so it hangs approx 15mm off the chassis so you can get the bushes slid in. this allows you the play to adjust the subframe to get each bolt back in. do them one at a time and leave them all hanging down 10mm - 15mm after doing them back up so you have the adjustment in the subframe to get them all back in by hand. when they are all in, jack the subframe up to the body, tighten the bolts up and then torque to spec. be patient!! I was ready to throw a bolt to the sh#thouse because I couldn't get it hand threaded in. Having an extra jack to push up on the lower control arm helped a lot. Once you do your first one you will be set. Just take your time. This is a very worthwhile upgrade and well worth the hassle! Last edited by sneaky_pete; 05-14-2020 at 05:02 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to sneaky_pete For This Useful Post: | Plumbus (01-12-2021) |
04-20-2020, 02:50 AM | #90 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Drives: '13 Subaru BRZ Crystal Black Silica
Location: Vermont
Posts: 55
Thanks: 7
Thanked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
If anyone does this and has an issue with the crossthreading like i did, I cleaned up my threads and actually installed a bolt from a wrx/sti afterwards that worked perfectly. Same pitch but slightly shorter.
But if anyone crossthreads during their install, i can send my bolt that i used to help clean the threads to you. |
08-02-2020, 10:02 AM | #91 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Drives: 2018 BRZ
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 929
Thanks: 1,389
Thanked 784 Times in 446 Posts
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Installed on my 2018 BRZ yesterday. Had the same corrosion on the passenger side rear subframe bolt (none on the other bolts), car probably didn't see salt (I suspect it was driven only spring to fall by the first owner for a year and then traded in). I had the car up on 4 jack stands and used a bottle jack to support the subframe. Did back first, then front.
After removing the bolts, lowered the subframe with the bottle jack about an inch. Raised the subframe back with the bottle jack and didn't have any issue getting the bolts back in. For the front bushings I supported the front of the diff. Drivetrain lash is greatly reduced, I'm very happy with this mod. Didn't notice any added NVH (I already have the transmission/shifter and steering rack bushings). Next would be the diff support bushings (KDT925). Regarding the torque specs, I've trusted the specs in this DIY (from the shop manual) vs. Whiteline - it felt much more inline with the loosening torque (especially the front 14mm bolts - 54 vs 16). My snag during the install was lack of 1/2 drive extension. Passenger side had good clearance, but for the rear driver side I had to remove the wheel to get more clearance around the exhaust. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Ohio Enthusiast For This Useful Post: | MJones_RB (08-03-2020) |
01-17-2021, 02:23 AM | #92 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Drives: '17 BRZ PP
Location: Vice City
Posts: 207
Thanks: 394
Thanked 76 Times in 58 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Also had to remove the S pipe from my catback so the xmember didn't rest on it as it lowered, and had to remove some plastic aero panels under the gas tank(s?). I used a steel bristle brush and isopropyl to clean the bolts, as well as cleaned all contact surfaces. Lubricant included was more than enough for all bushings, kinda wished I lubed all of them in one go evenly instead of leaving remaining lube. Removing wheels made the job 10x easier. I'm just curious, did everyone torque the bolts to service manual specifications? The Whiteline instructions had a much lower figure, like 71 lb ft or something instead of 107 for the service manual. The bolts torqued fine with 107 lb but the bushings look ballooned or sandwiched due to the pressure. Not sure if this is ok or not. |
|
|
|
Tags |
bushing, crossmember, diy, whiteline |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Adjustable Camber Arms vs. Whiteline Camber Bushings | digital_assassin | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 70 | 06-02-2013 06:06 AM |
Installed the Whiteline crossmember bushing(no pics sorry) | gmookher | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 10 | 01-26-2013 02:00 PM |
++PERRIN REAR SHIFTER BUSHINGS NOW IN STOCK! SPECIAL PRICING!++ | genometuning | Transmission and Driveline | 4 | 10-12-2012 09:23 PM |