What Model Year for track car?

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by Hades

Keep in mind, with a Miata you're likely to want/need a rollbar for the track. That makes it unstreetable IMO unless you're willing to take a risk cracking your skull getting rear ended.

If you're going full blown track car (with a cage, trailer, whole nine yards), Miata wins on most accounts.

I agree with this completely. I had a NA that I took to the track about a dozen times when I was younger with a roll bar, etc. Looking back, probably not the safest thing to do for a car that's 2200 lbs and had crash structure technology from the mid 90s. It was super cheap, and as mentioned before the consumables are next to nothing, but man when you're going 110 down the straight in that little thing there's really not much protection.

So my vote is to go with the twins. The FRSs are generally cheaper than the BRZs. Unless you're willing to put in a cage for a Miata, I don't think it's worth the risk...

[pgranberg11]

miatata + k swap. donezo.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by kooliosupraboi

I remember bruising the side of my knees from bracing against the door and the center area.

That goes away with a race chair and a proper harness. With those two safety items installed, you go from climbing into the car to strapping the car on, and the days of bracing yourself are behind you, regardless of which car you're driving. You'll be fixed in place and the effort you would have expended holding yourself in place is now available to be spent on your driving. It's a significant upgrade to performance as well as safety.

Valid points have been raised regarding the issue of running a rollbar or cage in a street/track car. Done poorly, you would certainly increase the risk to yourself in the case of an accident on the street. There are designs that can take that risk into account and significantly minimize it. For example, if you're running a four-point cage (where the entire cage is behind the driver's and passenger's chairs), you're arguably at no increased risk while driving on the street without a helmet on. If I had a four-point cage and wanted to add on to it in a minimal way, I would take it up to a six-point by adding in modified NASCAR bars that didn't require acrobatics to get into and out of the driver's and passenger's chairs. A qualified cage builder can explain all of this better than I can.

I realize you're just getting your feet wet here, and I wanted to (hopefully) add to your perspective as you get started. Until you've got the nut behind the wheel squared-away, I recommend focusing on safety equipment for your car: e.g., brake fluid & pads, oil cooler; and for yourself: rollover protection, a helmet that fits well, a HANS-type device, a race chair that fits you, and a six-point harness.

[14stu]

I really like the Miata setup where you use the passenger seat area to stack your track tires (basically you mount a vertical pole and slide the set on top, the pole unscrews for racing and you mount your ballast, if required, where the tires were).

If you aren't going full prep, the twins are a better option since you don't need a rollbar and you can fit all your stuff in the car without tearing out seats (plus the added room if you're sticking with the stock seats).

A stock NA, NB, or NC is going to flop around on its soft suspension, you'll want a harness and/or race seats just to keep in control. The NA and NB are getting pretty old, so stuff will break (they're cheap and easy to fix, but you will have to do work on them and you might have a couple of trackdays cut short).

NC's are a great bargain, you can get a much newer car for close to what the much older and higher mileage NA or NB's go for. You'll still want a cage and a seat.

A twin is a ton of fun with just brake pads and fluids (you'll want tires too if you don't want to be super slow with the primacy's). There's also no immediate need for a cage or seats and a harness (they'll still help and are worth doing, but you can get away without them). I'd recommend doing the Velox/Verus fuel door fix to avoid the fuel starve issue and a 2015 will avoid the coil pack issues.

My local dealer has been honoring my warranty even though he knows I track my 2014 routinely (it's also prepped for the STX autox class). He's replaced my coil packs and entire wiring harness under warranty, as well as replacing my transmission (I had a mysterious ball bearing in my fluid when I was changed it and I think it was from a synchro, they just threw in a tranny without really trying to figure out what was wrong). I'm liking tracking a car with a warranty, but your experience will greatly depend on how friendly your local dealer is.

[TommyW]

Cost wise a Miata for about 10k with 5 k in suspension wheel/tires and roll bar and its tough to beat. Cheap to track and a lot of fun. An 86 with tires is also awesome so it's almost a coin toss really. I've had both but in my 86 I can pretend I'm in a GT3.

I'll tell you though if you get an 86 leave the stock tires on for your first few track days and get used to the big slip angles so that when you put decent rubber on you'll have no problem with the small slip angles.

[fatoni]

You can get track prepped miatas for 6k so it's hard to say anything else.

[jmimac351]

I've owned a bunch of Miatas and used them on the track. NC cars have become quite affordable. I "stole" this car as it got a little wet from hurricane Irma. It's a "certificate of destruction" car and I can't put a plate on it, but it looks great and is made to go to the track. No reservations about ripping it apart and putting a seat, bar, fire suppression, etc in a "nice car". If I told you how much I paid for this car you wouldn't believe me. Although the car got a little wet (just water inside on the floorboards), the ECU is actually located in the engine compartment under the battery and fairly high. There are no important electronics down low in the car. That makes NC Miatas a great option from that standpoint, notwithstanding the fact that they are a great car.

What I'd suggest is this... find your local "miata parts salvage guy" or someone else who buys cars from Copart. That's where this car came from. You can get a great deal on a "track only" car. Of course, you need a truck / trailer to get it to the track. For the money I'll have in this car, I will be able to get out of it for "free" if that time ever comes. I'll have so little money in it that it may be a dumb idea to ever sell it... unless I find one even cooler. It will be ultra safe. I can wad it up in a pile of junk on the side of the track and go find another one and have more fun building that one.

Driving a car on a track that you can leave on the side of the track on fire and it not bother (or impact you financially) takes stress out of the entire experience. There's no "I don't want to wreck my car" stuff in your head. Consumables for a car like this are like buying a cup of coffee. It's just a non-issue and it removes a lot of the potential aggravation from the hobby from constantly pouring money into the car. You can just go "Have Fun". Remember, the Fun is when you are changing directions at a high rate of speed, not going a buck-fitty in a straight line. HP may help you pass people, but it doesn't necessarily mean "More Fun". HP = Heat, Wear... $$$.

If you do decide you want to go a little faster you can (get good Instruction) swap in a 2.5L motor for less than a set of shocks. It bolts right in from a minivan, etc. Miatas actually ARE the answer... Those who Know, know.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by jmimac351

I've owned a bunch of Miatas and used them on the track. NC cars have become quite affordable. I "stole" this car as it got a little wet from hurricane Irma. It's a "certificate of destruction" car and I can't put a plate on it, but it looks great and is made to go to the track. No reservations about ripping it apart and putting a seat, bar, fire suppression, etc in a "nice car". If I told you how much I paid for this car you wouldn't believe me. Although the car got a little wet (just water inside on the floorboards), the ECU is actually located in the engine compartment under the battery and fairly high. There are no important electronics down low in the car. That makes NC Miatas a great option from that standpoint, notwithstanding the fact that they are a great car.

What I'd suggest is this... find your local "miata parts salvage guy" or someone else who buys cars from Copart. That's where this car came from. You can get a great deal on a "track only" car. Of course, you need a truck / trailer to get it to the track. For the money I'll have in this car, I will be able to get it out of it for "free" if that time ever comes. I'll have so little money in it that it may be a dumb idea to ever sell it... unless I find one even cooler. It will be ultra safe. I can wad it up in a pile of junk on the side of the track and go find another one and have more fun building it.

Driving a car on a track that you can leave on the side of the track on fire and it not bother (or impact you financially) takes stress out of the entire experience. There's no "I don't want to wreck my car" stuff in your head. Consumables for a car like this are like buying a cup of coffee. It's just a non-issue and it removes a lot of the potential aggravation from the hobby from constantly pouring money into the car. You can just go "Have Fun". Remember, the Fun is when you are changing directions at a high rate of speed, not going a buck-fitty in a straight line. HP may help you pass people, but it doesn't necessarily mean "More Fun". HP = Heat, Wear... $$$.

If you do decide you want to go a little faster you can (get good Instruction) swap in a 2.5L motor for less than a set of shocks. Miatas actually ARE the answer... Those who Know, know.

Plus the fact of a well driven Miata keeping up with about anything in the corners...

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Plus the fact of a well driven Miata keeping up with about anything in the corners...

OP said he is too big for the Miata.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kooliosupraboi

Wow thanks for the tremendous amount of replies in such a short time.

To address all the people suggesting miata, here's why I'm leaning towards the 86 twin more. Don't get me wrong, I've always wanted a miata as a track car, even before I got my STI. However, one thing that is making me reluctant to get a miata is size for me. I don't fit very well in one..

NA with the seat all the way back, my knees hit the wheel and my hands get very close to being caught at my knees. I've driven one at autox for several runs. It's not as noticeable when driving, but that was autox so it was pretty short and hectic to really notice. I would think for a full track it might become more obvious.

I haven't driven an NB/NC so hard to say on seating position there.

ND, much better than NA but still knees come close to wheels, I remember bruising the side of my knees from bracing against the door and the center area.

I have driven FRS, and its way more comfortable to drive than any of the miatas stock for stock that's for sure. I don't know for certain if a bucket seat with an aftermarket steering wheel would help in a miata, but if it does, then I might be game again. But I don't really want to take that risk. Kind of a primary reason why I chose the 86 over the miata.

But it seems like to me the consensus is MY14+ which I will continue to do my search on...

I plan to keep plates on the car for the near future. The main purpose would be to drive on the track, but I would probably drive it occasionally here and there on the streets if I feel like it.

@ Racecomp Primary reason for frs track car is for driver improvement and fast laps eventually. Trying to keep it stock (except tires+brakes) until I can "max" it out.

Sounds like a perfect candidate for stock class 86CUP.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/86cup

www.86cup.us

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Plus the fact of a well driven Miata keeping up with about anything in the corners...

SPM and 86Cup Street cars are approximately similar in lap times at most socal tracks.

Ironically, the SPM S2 Miatas make up more time on straights, while the 86CUP street class cars make it up in corners.

Who woulda thought?

[ryejeff]

Thanks all for the excellent discussion here.

I have a desire similar to the OP's. I want to get a car that I can take to a track and I am somewhat torn between a Miata and a twin.

I already have a '99 Miata (unlike OP, I fit great in it). My Miata is a competitive car for ES autocross. I don't want to put a roll bar in it because the extra weight will compromise its autox performance. And even if I did put a roll bar in it, it has no cruise control and would be a bit tedious to drive to/from any non-local events.

I would prefer a roof and the additional transport space of a twin. But is that roof and space worth the additional cost (of vehicle and consumables) vs. getting another Miata and doing light track-prep?

I do not have any plans to trailer my car, so is there enough comfort/convenience difference in longer transits to sway the decision?

[ls1ac]

Perhaps the op should sit in a prepped Miata. With all the "junk" removed then the seat can be farther back and lower and it has less spring and padding..

[Pat]

Originally Posted by ryejeff

Thanks all for the excellent discussion here.

I have a desire similar to the OP's. I want to get a car that I can take to a track and I am somewhat torn between a Miata and a twin.

I already have a '99 Miata (unlike OP, I fit great in it). My Miata is a competitive car for ES autocross. I don't want to put a roll bar in it because the extra weight will compromise its autox performance. And even if I did put a roll bar in it, it has no cruise control and would be a bit tedious to drive to/from any non-local events.

I would prefer a roof and the additional transport space of a twin. But is that roof and space worth the additional cost (of vehicle and consumables) vs. getting another Miata and doing light track-prep?

I do not have any plans to trailer my car, so is there enough comfort/convenience difference in longer transits to sway the decision?

Bring your Miata to a track or autocross event where you can drive a twin back-to-back with it. That should make your decision much easier.