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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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04-19-2016, 02:36 AM | #43 |
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-2.1, 0 toe for the front
-1.7, 0 toe for the rear Stock suspension with SPC camber bolts. Suits what I'm looking for. Use my car for daily/track/auto x |
04-19-2016, 05:16 AM | #44 |
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-3.5 Front -2.5 Rear and 0 Toe all round. Feels lovely and gets the tyres in their happy place. Next track day they will be adjusted via pyrometre but so far they are wearing fairly even.
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04-19-2016, 09:42 AM | #45 |
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Ride height? Suspension. Im looking for good numbers to give the alignment guy
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04-19-2016, 10:24 AM | #46 |
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Ride height? I don't know that it makes a difference. LCA's and Front camber plates and Camber washers set camber. Obviously on coilovers. MCA Reds. Only the best.
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04-19-2016, 11:01 AM | #47 |
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Wheels:
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 ~ Size 17” x 8.0” ~ Bolt 5 x 100mm ~ Offset +42mm ~ Hub 56.1mm Tires: BFGoodrich G-Force Comp II (245/40R17) Suspension: WORKS/Ohlins Stage III ~ SuperPro Rear LCA Current Alignment: Front: Camber: Left Front -0.8° ~ Right Front -0.8° Caster: Left Front 5.3° ~ Right Front 5.7° Toe: Left Front 0.01° ~ Right Front 0.01° Front: Total Toe 0.02° ~ Steer Ahead 0.00° Rear: Camber: Left Rear -1.8° ~ Right Rear -1.8° Toe: Left Rear 0.01° ~ Right Rear 0.00° Rear: Total Toe 0.02° ~ Thrust Angle 0.01° Chassis Ride Height: Ground height to fender tip: 647.7 mm (25 1/2 in) Rocker sill to ground 146.05 mm (5 3/4 in) Fender lip to wheel center 355.6 mm (14 in) |
04-19-2016, 11:28 AM | #48 |
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Installed coilovers this weekend and car goes in for alignment on Thursday. 1 inch drop, I've requested -2.2 in the front and -1.7 in the rear. Got SPC LCAs for the rear and camber bolts and adjustable top hats for the fronts. Requested 0 toe all around. Figure this is a good starting point for a DD car on HKS Hipermax 4 GT coilovers (6k front, 4k rear)
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04-21-2016, 10:04 AM | #49 |
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04-22-2016, 01:14 AM | #50 |
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05-11-2016, 01:22 PM | #51 |
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Of the people who posted and have -3 or more negative camber in the front (necessary if car is pushed to the limit with any desire for even tire wear), I see the following:
@solidONE: -3.0f (0 toe) / -2.5r (1/16" toe) @Northwest86: -3.5f (0 toe) / -2.5r (0 toe) @GTM_Challenge: -3.0f (0 toe) / -2.6r (0 toe) @kvnchu: -3.2f (0 toe) / -2.8r (0.2 toe) @CSG Mike (old post): -3.2f (0 toe) / -2.5r (0 toe) My first setup was -3.4f/-2.7r 2yrs ago with the car very lowered (was a mistake by the shop who arranged alignment and corner balancing) - car felt balanced and wore tires evenly...but was for street and track and the height didn't work for street. My current setup with stiffer springs and new valving, and the Ohlins-recommended ride height is -3.0f/-2.5r. Car understeers and wears outer edge more. Rear appears to wear evenly at -2.5r. My guardian angel suggested to try -3.5f (1/32 toe out) / -2.4r (1/16 toe in), and that looks right on the money based on what I've seen so far and what I'm looking for, so that's what I'll go with. Last edited by dp1; 05-11-2016 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Updated with recommendation from @CSG Mike |
05-11-2016, 02:12 PM | #52 |
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I got the requested alignment posted above with 1 inch lower ride height and -2.2f and -1.7r. On track it was well balanced with just a hint of understeer until I busted a front swaybar end link during my 2nd session and noticed that changed to a hint of oversteer. As I am still fairly inexperienced, I prefer understeer so I'll be getting new endlinks before long.
Regarding tire wear, I started the day with 4/32 and ended it with 2/32 and it's nice and even. I was running 30psi square cold, I didn't make it a point to check what the hot pressures were but I suspect it went up to around 35 psi. Because some of the streets around here are in terrible shape and have pretty deep ruts, I find now that I've cambered my wheels as much as I have, my car sometimes pulls a bit to the left or right as I sit in the ruts. Roads with good pavement don't do this but unfortunately for me, there aren't any on my daily commute. |
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05-11-2016, 09:44 PM | #53 |
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Lynxis,
Based on other cars I have owned and what I have read/learned about this car, that should be a really nice set-up for a dual purpose car. There is no need to drop the car more than an inch for performance a dual set-up. I usually run .5 extra camber in the front with zero toe in front and just a touch of toe in for the rear. Keep us posted on you developments. |
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05-11-2016, 11:19 PM | #54 |
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Alright it's been some time since I had it on track but I was DDing and going to Watkins Glen on this last year, before going back to winter mode.
Suspension mods: RCE Yellows on stock struts Raceseng CasCam plates SPL rear LCAs Tires: 245/40R17 R-S3 V2 Front: Camber: -2.5 deg each side Caster: +7.0 deg both sides Toe: 0.0 Rear: Camber: -2.0 deg each side Toe: 0.15 total toe IN While it could probably be 75% chalked up to the driver (me), I felt like I could reduce the rear toe a bit. When pushed the car would mostly understeer, only a few corners could I get any good rotation (the bus stop felt good). Extremely stable at speed. Wear was pretty good on the back, a bit of camber wear on the front, but I put a LOT of road miles on the car too. Probably a bit too wide on the tires, but it was my one concession to vanity. I now have a pyrometer so once I get back out on track I'll experiment a bit more methodically. |
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06-01-2016, 11:30 PM | #55 |
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Just curious how that alignment is working for you? Are you getting even wear with -3.5 up front?
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06-02-2016, 08:14 AM | #56 | |
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Quote:
This alignment will be set next week and I have two 3-day track weekends coming up starting two weeks from now, will update after. Car will be lowered about 30mm from stock and on JRZs with 9k/11k springs and Toyo RR slicks (sidewalls aren't too stiff). Car will have quite a few/significant suspension upgrades next week so it may take me more than two weekends to figure out damper settings and push the car harder. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dp1 For This Useful Post: | smg1138 (06-02-2016) |
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