Actual alignment specs from BRZ

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by taosracer

Thanks, when will you have your plates available ? Will they work with the stock struts, or coilovers only ? I'm familiar with the Whiteline bits, but I prefer the adjust-ablility.

Yes, they will work with both stock struts and coilovers.

Hope to have them available very soon. If you like, send me a PM and I'll send you a note when they're in.

Originally Posted by taosracer

All of those measurements are very peculiar, especially the front caster. They should not be drastically different like that. The rear tow is completely screwy too, as it would make the car want to crab down the road.

How confident are you of the technician, the rack used and the specs you got from it.

I agree, these numbers are a little screwy. Caster and SAI especially.

- Andre

[Scooby South]

that exactly what we thought...Tech...friend...been doing performance stuff for a while now... that and he was my co-driver this past weekend...

Bill

[blu_]

Anyway you clipped the front right wheel somehow?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Just got mine aligned with WL com-c hats and oem camber bolts.

-2.3 front camber and in the rear -2.25 rear left and a awful -2.75 rear right. Cant wait for the WL kit to reel that back in some.

This car is lowered with our proto springs.

Caster is SICK. The WL com-c hats ON THIS chassis gives upwards of .80 caster gain which is amazing. camber gain is about .75 for the whitelines too.

So yes we will offer a BRZ intro kit. Springs, bolts and hats.

[EMguy]

Can anyone clarify the proper location and part number for the OEM camber bolt?

This page tells me to use 901000394 in the upper attachment point. Is this right?

[uspspro]

I know generally more caster is better, but that's more caster than I've had on any other car. Is there a point where it is too much?

Is caster otherwise adjustable?

Is all that negative camber in the rear coming from just the lowering springs?

[taosracer]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Just got mine aligned with WL com-c hats and oem camber bolts.

-2.3 front camber and in the rear -2.25 rear left and a awful -2.75 rear right. Cant wait for the WL kit to reel that back in some.

This car is lowered with our proto springs.

Caster is SICK. The WL com-c hats ON THIS chassis gives upwards of .80 caster gain which is amazing. camber gain is about .75 for the whitelines too.

So yes we will offer a BRZ intro kit. Springs, bolts and hats.

Thanks.

The front specs look perfect. I wonder where they would be without lowering. That's too much camber in the rear for my taste for sure. The stock -1.5 (by my measurements) would be just about right, as long as they're even side to side. I like a little toe-in in the rear for more braking stability.

Any chance you guys will experiment with the WL hats on the stock springs ?

[uspspro]

Originally Posted by uspspro

I know generally more caster is better, but that's more caster than I've had on any other car. Is there a point where it is too much?

Is caster otherwise adjustable?

Is all that negative camber in the rear coming from just the lowering springs?

RCE any thoughts here??

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by uspspro

I know generally more caster is better, but that's more caster than I've had on any other car. Is there a point where it is too much?

Is caster otherwise adjustable?

Is all that negative camber in the rear coming from just the lowering springs?

There can be a point when there is too much caster, but we're not there yet. It's also a little bit track and driver dependent.

Caster is non adjustable with OEM parts.

Our car started with a good bit of negative camber in the rear, but did gain extra back there due to the drop. There is some variability from car to car and with a little more effort some of that camber could be dialed out through the "slop" in the OEM parts. But we're waiting on a real solution.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by taosracer

Thanks.

The front specs look perfect. I wonder where they would be without lowering. That's too much camber in the rear for my taste for sure. The stock -1.5 (by my measurements) would be just about right, as long as they're even side to side. I like a little toe-in in the rear for more braking stability.

Any chance you guys will experiment with the WL hats on the stock springs ?

Probably not but they will definitely make a good addition to even a completely stock car.

- Andrew

[jamal]

Does KCA326 not fit for some reason?

[phm14]

Great info Guys, thanks for posting. Good to see useful tech data on the site. Keep it coming.

[Scooby South]

Originally Posted by Scooby South

here is Mine...from Saturday:

Just got another check at my work..

[taosracer]

I installed the concentric bolts yesterday, and there is a negligible increase in -camber. I wasn't able to get it on the alignment rack to measure it, but based on the #s posted by jdrxb9 and the slight amount of visible movement with them, I think they're only gaining .2-.3 degrees. I'll be putting adjustable plates on mine soon enough, and the bolts will be usefull in finely adjusting the camber to get zero cross numbers.

[taosracer]

Here is the BRZ manual's instructions on adjusting the front alignment:

CAUTION:
To ensure proper functioning of the brake system, be sure to perform the neutral position setting of the VSC (VDC) sensor as initialization after alignment adjustment or removal/replacement of suspension or underbody parts. (Refer to )
1. Tire inspection (Refer to )

2. Vehicle height inspection
(1) Perform vehicle height inspection after bouncing the vehicle at the corners by large amounts to stabilize the suspension.
Standard value

Tire size
Dimension B - Dimension A
(mm {in})
Dimension C
(mm {in})
Dimension D
(mm {in})
Dimension E
(mm {in})

P205/55R16
146 {5.75}
225 {8.86}
375 {14.76}
372 {14.65}
215/45R17
146 {5.75}
225 {8.86}
375 {14.76}
372 {14.65}
CAUTION:
·Perform the inspection while the vehicle is at curb weight (with the spare tire, jack, and service tools loaded and with a full fuel tank).
·These values are for adjusting the wheel alignment and do not indicate the actual vehicle height.
NOTE:
·Dimension A ··· Center of the head of the front lower arm No. 1 bushing mounting bolt
·Dimension B ··· Center of the front wheel
·Dimension C ··· Center of the rear end of the rear lower arm No. 2 bushing mounting bolt threaded portion
·Dimension D ··· From the front fender arch upper end to the center of the front wheel
·Dimension E ··· From the rear fender arch upper end to the center of the rear wheel
3. Inspection of camber, caster, and kingpin angle
CAUTION:
Perform the inspection while the vehicle is at curb weight (with the spare tire, jack, and service tools loaded and with a full fuel tank).
(1) Place the front wheel on the turning radius gauge.
Standard value

Tire size
Camber
Caster
Kingpin angle
P205/55R16
215/45R17
0°00±0°45'
5°54' (Reference)
15°31' (Reference)

NOTE:
Make sure the ground contact surfaces of the front and rear wheels are at the same height.

(2) Set the adapter into the center of wheel, and then set the wheel alignment gauge.
Captions in illustration

(1)

Wheel alignment gauge

(2)

Turning radius gauge

(3)

Adapter
(3) Measure the camber angle in accordance with the operation manual for wheel alignment gauge.
(4) Check whether the measured value is within standard value.
(5) Measure the caster angle in accordance with the operation manual for wheel alignment gauge.
(6) Check whether the measured value is within standard value.
4. Camber adjustment
CAUTION:
Perform the inspection while the vehicle is at curb weight (with the spare tire, jack, and service tools loaded and with a full fuel tank).
(1) Jack up the vehicle, and then remove the front tires.

(2) Loosen the lower mounting bolt and nut of the shock absorber ASSY FR and knuckle.

(3) Replace the upper mounting bolt of the shock absorber ASSY FR and knuckle with a replacement bolt. (Part No.: Flange bolt 14×60 (901000394))
CAUTION:
Insert the bolts from the rear of the vehicle.

(4) Using the lower mounting bolt of the shock absorber ASSY FR and knuckle as a supporting point, adjust the camber with the play in the bolt, steering knuckle bolt hole, and shock absorber ASSY FR bolt hole.
CAUTION:
The limit of difference between the left and right camber values is 0° 30'.
NOTE:
The range adjustable by replacing the bolts is 0°± 45'.

(5) Tighten the two bolts using two new nuts.

Standard value:
Tightening torque=155N·m { 1581kgf·cm}
{114.3ft·lbf}
(6) Install the front tires.

Standard value:
Tightening torque=120N·m { 1224kgf·cm}
{88.5ft·lbf}
(7) Lower and remove the jack, and bounce the vehicle several times to stabilize the front suspension.
(8) Check the camber again.
(9) Check the toe-in.
5. Side slip inspection
(1) Check the side slip using a side slip tester.
Standard value : 0±4mm {0±0.16in} (per 1 m {3.3 ft})
CAUTION:
·Enter onto the side slip tester in the straight ahead position at a speed equal to or less than the walking speed (approx. 4 km/h {2.5 MPH}), and perform the inspection while in neutral.
·Do not depress the brake pedal on the side slip tester.
·Do not turn the steering wheel on the side slip tester.
(2) If it is out of standard value, check the wheel alignment.
6. Toe-in inspection
(1) Bounce the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.
(2) Move the vehicle straight 5 m {16.4 ft} forward by manually pushing it.
CAUTION:
If the vehicle has been moved backward, be sure to move it forward by the same distance.

(3) Adjust the height of the toe-in gauge pointer so that it is at the same height as the center of the front wheel axis, and set it behind the tire.
Captions in illustration

*1

Toe-in gauge

*a

Tread center

*b

Dimension B

Front side of vehicle
(4) Place a tread center mark on the back of both front tires, and measure the distance between the marks (dimension B).
(5) Move the vehicle forward by pushing it slowly to rotate the front wheels 180°.
CAUTION:
Be sure not to rotate more than 180°, and if the wheels have been over-rotated, repeat from the setting up of the toe-in gauge.

(6) Measure the distance between the marks at the front of the vehicle (dimension A).
Captions in illustration

*1

Toe-in gauge

*a

Dimension A

Front side of vehicle
(7) Calculate the toe-in.
Standard value

Toe-in (mm {in})
0±3 {0±0.12} (at curb weight)

NOTE:
Toe-in = Dimension B - Dimension A

7. Toe-in adjustment
(1) Measure the length of the threaded portion of the left and right rack ends.
Criteria : Difference between left and right is 2.0 mm {0.079 in} or less
(2) Remove the rack boot clips.
(3) Loosen the tie-rod end lock nuts.
(4) If the difference between the threaded portion of the left and right rack ends is out of standard value, adjust them.
(a) If the measured toe-in deviates toward the outer side, extend the shorter rack end.
(b) If the measured toe-in deviates toward the inner side, shorten the longer rack end.
(c) Check the toe-in again.
(5) Turn the left rack end to right and turn the right rack end to left by an equal amount to adjust the toe-in so that it is within standard value.
Standard value

Toe-in (mm {in})
0±3 {0±0.12}

(6) Tighten the tie-rod end lock nuts.

Standard value:
Tightening torque=85N·m { 867kgf·cm}
{62.7ft·lbf}
CAUTION:
Temporarily tighten the lock nut while holding the hexagonal part of the steering rack end so that the lock nut and the steering rack end do not turn together, and then tighten the lock nut while holding the width across flat of the tie-rod end.
(7) Using pliers, install the clips on the rack boots.

8. Wheel turning angle inspection
(1) Set the turning radius gauge.
(2) Check the wheel turning angle.
Standard value

Inside
Outside

36°54' (Reference)
31°12' (Reference)
CAUTION:
·Perform the inspection while the vehicle is at curb weight (with the spare tire, jack, and service tools loaded and with a full fuel tank).
·While the vehicle is at curb weight, apply the foot brake using a brake pedal depressor, etc. to prevent the front wheels from rotating during the inspection.
·Remove the stop light fuse to prevent the stop light from illuminating during the inspection.
Captions in illustration

*a

Inside

*b

Outside

Front
9. Confirmation of front tires in the straight-ahead position
10. Mid point setting of the VSC (VDC) sensor (Refer to )

[Kido1986]

Originally Posted by taosracer

I installed the concentric bolts yesterday, and there is a negligible increase in -camber. I wasn't able to get it on the alignment rack to measure it, but based on the #s posted by jdrxb9 and the slight amount of visible movement with them, I think they're only gaining .2-.3 degrees. I'll be putting adjustable plates on mine soon enough, and the bolts will be usefull in finely adjusting the camber to get zero cross numbers.

Don't be confused by the different part #s posted for these bolts. I ordered and used #20540AA090 which are the same as the concentric bolts I've seen on the many Imprezas I've owned and worked on over the years. I've also seen reference to # 901000394. These are actually the bottom, non-adjusting ones.

Im very interested in your outcome. I want to prep my car for stock class SCCA and I definitely need camber to avoid outside tirewear. Please post the camber specs with as much camber as possible dialed in as these are Stock legal but plates are not.

So you're saying both of those part numbers give you the same bolts, just from different applications?

[taosracer]

Originally Posted by Kido1986

Im very interested in your outcome. I want to prep my car for stock class SCCA and I definitely need camber to avoid outside tirewear. Please post the camber specs with as much camber as possible dialed in as these are Stock legal but plates are not.

The other solution to gain -camber without plates is to "hog out" the bottom holes in the struts a little. May not be "spec legal" but very difficult to detect without a tear down.

I had to do this on the Tokico D-specs that I have on my WRX wagon, as they are sedan specific (wider track) and needed to gain back lost -camber. Using a burr and elongating the hole about 1.5 mm towards the outside of the strut gained back 1.0 degree.

[Kido1986]

Im a mechanical idiot. Me + power tools + important suspension = dead me in a retaining wall haha

Just keep us updated as soon as possible. Im getting my car in ~3 weeks and need to order the bolts since they take time. Just want to make sure they get an actual result. I know you're skeptical of your results but Im hoping for close to a degree... hoping.. hahah. 1.5 would be perfect but I know that's too far to hope for.

[taosracer]

Another solution is to use two (per side) smaller diameter bolts that allow play in both the top and bottom holes of the steering knuckle. By kicking the bottom out and top in, you can achieve some -camber.

Readily available after market camber adjusting bolts could also do the same, but might not be "legal".

[UncleFester]

I was able to get up to -2.6 camber in the front using Subaru bolts, though I settled on -2.2 to start. Although the rear is not camber adjustable we managed to get -1.0/-1.2 by manipulating the toe. Toe is now zeroed out on both ends.

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by UncleFester

I was able to get up to -2.6 camber in the front using Subaru bolts, though I settled on -2.2 to start. Although the rear is not camber adjustable we managed to get -1.0/-1.2 by manipulating the toe. Toe is now zeroed out on both ends.

Wow - that is a lot. What did your car start out at? Did you check what your max was without bolts? And when you say subaru bolts, you mean this: (Part No.: Flange bolt 14×60 (901000394)), correct?

[dwx]

Yeah -2.6 sounds like an alien car or not the right bolts. RCE was using different tip hats and could not get that much camber...