AP Sprint BBK - The cost/benefit review

[Slip Angle]

I'm not a big fan of the J hooks though. They make a noise on the street like a playing card in the spokes of your bicycle. I have some deep grooves that formed at the points on each end of the J's. Smooth rotors for me when it finally comes time to replace them. Fortunately, Essex has both available.
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Jim Pomroy

Hi Jim,
Just wanted to let you know that I got the same groove and occasional brake "shudder/vibration" with my ap sprint kit when using aggressive cl sintered pads. I switched to ferrodo pads and no more groove and fantastic performance with better longevity. I think the sintered pads were making too much heat causing more issues than the added stopping power was worth. I like the ferrodo pads aside from noticing they tend to chunk up on the leading edge which i think is partly due to design.... No tapered edge like you see from some other manufacturers.

[Brzerker]

Thanks OP! This will be awesome data for justification on the AP kit purchase!

Clearly the hero we all deserve

[Gear_One_Performance]

Damn, that's some seriously impressive life from a set of rotors.

[ansibe]

This is an excellent thread. OP, thanks for initiating it.

I seem to be getting about 15 days out of the OE rotors with Carbotech xp12, but I'm not as fast as the OP. OE tires as well (which I like, even though it's an unpopular sentiment). No significant 'heat checking' - those are the small cracks, right?

Why use titanium shims? Do they keep heat out of the fluid? I don't even run shims with my xp12.

Finally, does the AP setup fit behind the OE wheels?

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by ansibe

This is an excellent thread. OP, thanks for initiating it.

I seem to be getting about 15 days out of the OE rotors with Carbotech xp12, but I'm not as fast as the OP. OE tires as well (which I like, even though it's an unpopular sentiment). No significant 'heat checking' - those are the small cracks, right?

Why use titanium shims? Do they keep heat out of the fluid? I don't even run shims with my xp12.

Finally, does the AP setup fit behind the OE wheels?

Yes, small cracks is normal heat checking. I was running ti-shims to help disperse heat and extend the life of the dust boots and help keep the fluid cool, as I was getting pedal compression after a session or two in the summer at Sebring (with a passenger) with the RBF600. Not so with the Torque RT700.

AP setup requires spacers up front with OEM wheels.

[ansibe]

My rotors are not heat checking, but I do see some obvious wear. Because of this, I have been replacing them at the same time as the pads. Maybe I'm too quick to replace. Should I just wait until they're at min thickness?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ansibe

My rotors are not heat checking, but I do see some obvious wear. Because of this, I have been replacing them at the same time as the pads. Maybe I'm too quick to replace. Should I just wait until they're at min thickness?

Post up pictures of both the inside and outside, and i can let you know.

[ansibe]

Thanks Mike, that's very kind of you. It will take a while until I can get pictures, but I'll definitely take you up on this.

[brzaapi]

Well, I just got into my AP Endurance kit. I have been bugging CSG Mike with a bunch of little questions. Mainly, because he lets me. Sorry about that Mike.

But so far the kit is great except i am having to get use to a little squeal. However, it seems to be getting better over time. I swapped from XP8s to XP10s. Which leads me to my question here to all the track rats here that run this kit.

When you need to swap pads, what trick or technique are you using to press the pistons back into the caliper. I am sure you could use some plastic or wood and use channel locks, but i would rather not. I have a brake caliper kit, and i am sure I may be able to do something with it. But i bet some of you guys here have smarter ways of doing things, without the risk of marring up the calipers or worse damaging the pistons.

Thanks for the help in advance.

[Takumi788]

Sub'd - Future AP Sprint user. I <3 spread sheets

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by brzaapi

Well, I just got into my AP Endurance kit. I have been bugging CSG Mike with a bunch of little questions. Mainly, because he lets me. Sorry about that Mike.

But so far the kit is great except i am having to get use to a little squeal. However, it seems to be getting better over time. I swapped from XP8s to XP10s. Which leads me to my question here to all the track rats here that run this kit.

When you need to swap pads, what trick or technique are you using to press the pistons back into the caliper. I am sure you could use some plastic or wood and use channel locks, but i would rather not. I have a brake caliper kit, and i am sure I may be able to do something with it. But i bet some of you guys here have smarter ways of doing things, without the risk of marring up the calipers or worse damaging the pistons.

Thanks for the help in advance.

I like these: http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-pist...er_p_5970.html

Since I don't actually own a set (nor do I own an AP BBK yet) I've gotten away with using a paint stirrer stick broken in half with a C-clamp. One half of the stick to protect the caliper, the other to push the pistons in. Slightly tedious on the 4 piston calipers I've done it on, but it works.

[brzaapi]

Thank you sir. yeah that is essentially what i did, and have done in the past. But i thought maybe there is some little genius trick that someone on the forum here could share.

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I like these: http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-pist...er_p_5970.html

Since I don't actually own a set (nor do I own an AP BBK yet) I've gotten away with using a paint stirrer stick broken in half with a C-clamp. One half of the stick to protect the caliper, the other to push the pistons in. Slightly tedious on the 4 piston calipers I've done it on, but it works.

[kster1]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I like these: http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-pist...er_p_5970.html

Since I don't actually own a set (nor do I own an AP BBK yet) I've gotten away with using a paint stirrer stick broken in half with a C-clamp. One half of the stick to protect the caliper, the other to push the pistons in. Slightly tedious on the 4 piston calipers I've done it on, but it works.

I ordered that GiroDisc spreader not too long ago but haven't had a chance to use it yet. It's heavy though and looks very well made.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I like these: http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-pist...er_p_5970.html

LOL $225. What a joke.