CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Rabbit of Caerbonnog

So would your camber recommendation change if I were to switch from 17x7 to 17x9? Or does it not matter?

For your uses I wouldn't change my recommendations.

- Andy

[200hp/tonne]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I would choose Bilstein B6. Koni Yellow a very close second and I might choose them if I autocrossed heavily.

- Andy

I went to my first autocross and loved it, and I want to track and autocross more. At an impulse, I bought and installed a set of ST front and rear sway bars. Should I choose RCE Yellow + Bilstein B6 or also look at Tein Street Flex(or Tein Flex A/Z), Bilstein B14 or ST Coilovers?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by 200hp/tonne

I went to my first autocross and loved it, and I want to track and autocross more. At an impulse, I bought and installed a set of ST front and rear sway bars. Should I choose RCE Yellow + Bilstein B6 or also look at Tein Street Flex(or Tein Flex A/Z), Bilstein B14 or ST Coilovers?

I say keep what you have for now and finish out the season. Drive as much as you can and have fun. Maybe add the Bilstein B6s if you really want to do so.

IMO the low end coilovers are not significantly better than RCE Yellows + quality shocks on the track or auto-x. Some of them are perhaps a downgrade ...

I would think about upgrading to a quality coilover next year, but focus on improving your driving for now and learning what you can.

- Andy

[Bobblehead]

I've posted in this thread before, but after a job change and other life stuff my want/needs have changed a little.

I want to lower my car an inch, and have been considering the Eibach Pro-Kit and H&R Sport springs. Which do you guys prefer? Is there a different set in this price range (<$300) that you'd recommend?

My main concern is ride comfort. This thing is my daily driver and I really don't want to hate my life every time I have to drive to work. I don't autocross the car very much at all, so I am willing to sacrifice a little bit of handling for comfort. I live in a relatively rural area with a lot of very fun twisty roads that I like to drive spiritedly on.

Upon lowering the car, I realize that I'll need to get it re-aligned. What camber/caster/toe/etc settings will ensure decent tire life and handling? What about crash bolts, camber plates, etc?

After my stock Primacy's wear out, I'll be putting a set of Cooper ZEON RS3A's in 245/40R17. I have a set of Enkei TX5 rims in 17x8, if that makes any difference.

TL;DR: Comfort challenge: Eibach Pro-kit vs H&R Sport? What alignment and other parts should I buy?

EDIT: I bought the H&R Sport springs. All other questions still stand.

[OkieSnuffBox]

@CSG Mike


OK, forgive me if I missed it earlier in the thread. Do either of you have recommended "pinch weld" heights to use as a baseline?

I'm used to the Miata world where we set ride heights based on ground to the bottom of the pinch weld, so everyone is on the same page. Especially since basically everyone runs either a 205/50 or 225/45/15 so they have the same OD.

I'm running 255/35/18, so approx. .15" higher than stock OD tire.

I'm on Ground Control 375/425 (purchased used), I'm relatively happy with the damping curves, but I need to either swap out the rear spring for one that is 1" shorter (to gain some shock travel back), or since I'll need control arms to dial in camber, I thought of going with one that adds some travel back in, like Stance (yeah, I know I know).

I'm thinking the control arm is the way to go, since I'll need to buy them anyway and it saves me an additional $130ish on two springs + not needing to take mounts apart and put back together.






Thoughts?

[philooo]

I am installing the Tarmac2 with planned 2 to 3 inch drop for dedicated track car.

Will the resulting camber be ok for the track ? or do I have to plan on purchasing lower control arm(s) ? and toe link(s) ?

If so, what do you think in mixing spherical link with the oem rubber until I get all arms updated in the future ? or should I use an all spherical or nothing approach ?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by philooo

I am installing the Tarmac2 with planned 2 to 3 inch drop for dedicated track car.

Will the resulting camber be ok for the track ? or do I have to plan on purchasing lower control arm(s) ? and toe link(s) ?

If so, what do you think in mixing spherical link with the oem rubber until I get all arms updated in the future ? or should I use an all spherical or nothing approach ?

That's a big drop! You will want rear LCAs for sure, maybe toe links.

With that much drop, the Raceseng lowering rear top mounts would be a good idea and maybe some lowering front camber plates.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Bobblehead

I've posted in this thread before, but after a job change and other life stuff my want/needs have changed a little.

I want to lower my car an inch, and have been considering the Eibach Pro-Kit and H&R Sport springs. Which do you guys prefer? Is there a different set in this price range (<$300) that you'd recommend?

My main concern is ride comfort. This thing is my daily driver and I really don't want to hate my life every time I have to drive to work. I don't autocross the car very much at all, so I am willing to sacrifice a little bit of handling for comfort. I live in a relatively rural area with a lot of very fun twisty roads that I like to drive spiritedly on.

Upon lowering the car, I realize that I'll need to get it re-aligned. What camber/caster/toe/etc settings will ensure decent tire life and handling? What about crash bolts, camber plates, etc?

After my stock Primacy's wear out, I'll be putting a set of Cooper ZEON RS3A's in 245/40R17. I have a set of Enkei TX5 rims in 17x8, if that makes any difference.

TL;DR: Comfort challenge: Eibach Pro-kit vs H&R Sport? What alignment and other parts should I buy?

EDIT: I bought the H&R Sport springs. All other questions still stand.

Of those two, I'd go for the Eibach's because they come with replacement bumpstops.

I would recommend the front OEM camber bolts you can get from the dealer (or do a search here for the part number). You can get around -1 or so up front, and probably end up around -2 in the rear. That's fine for a daily driver. 0 toe front, and a tiny bit of toe in for the rear.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

@CSG Mike


OK, forgive me if I missed it earlier in the thread. Do either of you have recommended "pinch weld" heights to use as a baseline?

I'm used to the Miata world where we set ride heights based on ground to the bottom of the pinch weld, so everyone is on the same page. Especially since basically everyone runs either a 205/50 or 225/45/15 so they have the same OD.

I'm running 255/35/18, so approx. .15" higher than stock OD tire.

I'm on Ground Control 375/425 (purchased used), I'm relatively happy with the damping curves, but I need to either swap out the rear spring for one that is 1" shorter (to gain some shock travel back), or since I'll need control arms to dial in camber, I thought of going with one that adds some travel back in, like Stance (yeah, I know I know).

I'm thinking the control arm is the way to go, since I'll need to buy them anyway and it saves me an additional $130ish on two springs + not needing to take mounts apart and put back together.






Thoughts?

The shorter springs would make me nervous that you'll see coilbind, but hard to tell without measuring. The LCAs seem like they make sense for you.

For ride heights we usually measure from center of wheel to fender.

- Andrew

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The shorter springs would make me nervous that you'll see coilbind, but hard to tell without measuring. The LCAs seem like they make sense for you.

For ride heights we usually measure from center of wheel to fender.

- Andrew

What measurements do you use from there? Or maybe you could measure one of your cars on level ground to the pinch welds?


Center of wheel to fender is harder to be accurate and doesn't take into account things like rolled/flared fenders, OD of the tire, etc.

[thunderlights]

Hi, not too sure if this question belongs here but i am planning on buying the Bilstein B8 dampeners with lowering springs and I am wondering if they will give me added clearance to run wider tires up front on an 18x9.5 et 40 wheel. Thank You!!

[PandaBRZ]

Originally Posted by thunderlights

Hi, not too sure if this question belongs here but i am planning on buying the Bilstein B8 dampeners with lowering springs and I am wondering if they will give me added clearance to run wider tires up front on an 18x9.5 et 40 wheel. Thank You!!

The Bilstein struts are the same size as stock so you won't gain any additional clearance over stock.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

What measurements do you use from there? Or maybe you could measure one of your cars on level ground to the pinch welds?


Center of wheel to fender is harder to be accurate and doesn't take into account things like rolled/flared fenders, OD of the tire, etc.

Wheel center to fender is the most accurate you can get easily - not perfect, but more consistent than anything to the ground where the diameter and pressure of the tires change the numbers, assuming you have a perfectly flat surface. Tire size is irrelevant to wheel center (if you prefer, hub center.)

C

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by cjd

Wheel center to fender is the most accurate you can get easily - not perfect, but more consistent than anything to the ground where the diameter and pressure of the tires change the numbers, assuming you have a perfectly flat surface. Tire size is irrelevant to wheel center (if you prefer, hub center.)

C

Less variables, but less accurate IMHO. I suspect the difference in OD in a tire at 28psi and 35psi would be hard to pick up with a tape measure. Since we aren't talking about touring tires or something.

@Racecomp Engineering do you have a hub to fender height starting place?


Thanks in advance!