follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine, Exhaust, Transmission

Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-04-2014, 12:46 PM   #29
DarkSunrise
Senior Member
 
DarkSunrise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 22 BRZ (Previously 13 FR-S)
Location: USA
Posts: 5,794
Thanks: 2,164
Thanked 4,242 Times in 2,220 Posts
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiv@Openflash View Post
By the looks of it (high higher, soft fuel cut), you have a tune file loaded. So I don't think that is the culprit. That header may just require custom tuning. Do you know if you were running a 93oct map or a 91oct map? The 93oct map, on 93oct, will make a few hp more.
That was 93 octane map on 93 octane fuel.

Do you think it's worth trying another dyno (i.e., coolant might have been cold, ECU may need to adjust, etc.) or should I just go straight to custom tuning? The odd part to me are the losses before 3500 RPM. I'm not a tuner, but that makes me think the engine wasn't completely happy for those runs or things hadn't properly broken in yet.
__________________
"Never run out of real estate, traction, and ideas at the same time."

2022 BRZ Build
2013 FR-S Build
DarkSunrise is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2014, 01:16 PM   #30
Shiv@Openflash
Senior Member
 
Shiv@Openflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: 2013 FRS
Location: SF, CA
Posts: 2,629
Thanks: 1,055
Thanked 5,469 Times in 1,494 Posts
Mentioned: 605 Post(s)
Tagged: 9 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
That was 93 octane map on 93 octane fuel.

Do you think it's worth trying another dyno (i.e., coolant might have been cold, ECU may need to adjust, etc.) or should I just go straight to custom tuning? The odd part to me are the losses before 3500 RPM. I'm not a tuner, but that makes me think the engine wasn't completely happy for those runs or things hadn't properly broken in yet.
I think the best thing would be to flash the stock file back into the ECU and then dyno on the same dyno. Just make sure the engine is warmed up and that you do a few runs to get the header up to temp. That will give you a good idea of what kind of changes to expect with the new mods. If you still see the same loss of torque below 3500rpm, then it's caused by the new modifications and it's very unlikely that a tune is going to recover that. Where the tune will help primarily is from the midrange dip area and up. Very little can be done to improve low end response as that is most influenced by engine pumping efficiency.

Once you have this data, realistic expectations can be set and you can begin the custom tuning process.

That's how I would do it at least
Shiv@Openflash is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Shiv@Openflash For This Useful Post:
DarkSunrise (11-04-2014)
Old 11-04-2014, 08:20 PM   #31
drewbot
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
 
drewbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '13 Whiteout FR-S A/T
Location: Mississauga, ON
Posts: 1,996
Thanks: 1,985
Thanked 1,452 Times in 752 Posts
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by s2d4 View Post
Open Loop actually.
Crap, but you know what I meant
drewbot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 02:16 AM   #32
Fast_Freddy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: Passat
Location: East Coast
Posts: 626
Thanks: 331
Thanked 188 Times in 130 Posts
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Since the intake wasn't changed I don't see all the fuss about the ECU needing time to learn. When I had my Ecutek tune flashed and dyno tuned there was no ECU re-learning required and subsequent dyno testing showed no further gains attributable to ECU re-learning. IMO the OP's results demonstrate one of the problems with "one-size-fits-all" canned tunes.


My mods were Borla UEL, Tsudo HFC front pipe, K&N drop-in. Base whp un-tuned was 160, canned stage 2 tune made 170 and the final tune produced 177whp.
Attached Images
 
Fast_Freddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 05:46 AM   #33
s2d4
Senior Member
 
s2d4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R32 GTR, AW11 MR2 SC, GTS86 R
Location: OZ
Posts: 2,615
Thanks: 603
Thanked 1,223 Times in 708 Posts
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Loss of power in close loop -> no learning required, no need to be up to temp.
Some stock cars need MAF scaling -> no learning required, no need to be up to temp.
177whp tuned warm vs 178whp tuned cold-> no learning required, no need to be up to temp.
160whp stock vs 177whp stock-> no need to care about different conditions, different engine, who cares if one is surprisingly high and one is surprisingly low.
__________________
s2d4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 07:15 AM   #34
steve99
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: FT86
Location: Australia
Posts: 7,998
Thanks: 1,035
Thanked 4,987 Times in 2,981 Posts
Mentioned: 598 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
That was 93 octane map on 93 octane fuel.

Do you think it's worth trying another dyno (i.e., coolant might have been cold, ECU may need to adjust, etc.) or should I just go straight to custom tuning? The odd part to me are the losses before 3500 RPM. I'm not a tuner, but that makes me think the engine wasn't completely happy for those runs or things hadn't properly broken in yet.

I think it would be worth logging a couple of wot runs in 3rd 2000-7500 to see what it looks like.

you may have exhaust leak upsetting O2 readings causing high fuel trims or heaps of knock ect that is cause of power loss be interesting to see street log to make sure it all looks ok.

on oft log

afr
commanded afr
wideband afr this is second o2 sensor
knock correction
flkc
iam
ltft
stft
rpm
load
steve99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 07:52 AM   #35
wparsons
Senior Member
 
wparsons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FR-S Manual
Location: Whitby, ON, Canada
Posts: 6,716
Thanks: 7,875
Thanked 3,352 Times in 2,134 Posts
Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Garage
My money is still on doing the pulls before VVT activated, especially with the losses down low.
__________________
Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak...
flickr
wparsons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 07:54 AM   #36
ztan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Drives: Toyota 86
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 311
Thanks: 44
Thanked 358 Times in 142 Posts
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Does it take a while for AVCS to get cam position registration initially sorted after flashing the ROM and doing a run?

I seem to remember a recommendation to let the car idle for at least 30s, if not more, after re-flashing.

OP and Fast_Freddy: was there any settling in time after reflashing between pulls, or did the pull get run straight away (i.e. was there any time for the cam timing to get settled)?
ztan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 08:04 AM   #37
DarkSunrise
Senior Member
 
DarkSunrise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 22 BRZ (Previously 13 FR-S)
Location: USA
Posts: 5,794
Thanks: 2,164
Thanked 4,242 Times in 2,220 Posts
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by s2d4 View Post
Loss of power in close loop -> no learning required, no need to be up to temp.
Some stock cars need MAF scaling -> no learning required, no need to be up to temp.
177whp tuned warm vs 178whp tuned cold-> no learning required, no need to be up to temp.
160whp stock vs 177whp stock-> no need to care about different conditions, different engine, who cares if one is surprisingly high and one is surprisingly low.
Could I ask what you mean when you say "no need to be up to temp?" I'm no expert, but I thought I read somewhere that low coolant temps could result in up to 20 hp less on the dyno with these engines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 View Post
I think it would be worth logging a couple of wot runs in 3rd 2000-7500 to see what it looks like.

you may have exhaust leak upsetting O2 readings causing high fuel trims or heaps of knock ect that is cause of power loss be interesting to see street log to make sure it all looks ok.

on oft log

afr
commanded afr
wideband afr this is second o2 sensor
knock correction
flkc
iam
ltft
stft
rpm
load
Thanks for the suggestion, I will see if I can get some 3rd gear logs in a few days.
__________________
"Never run out of real estate, traction, and ideas at the same time."

2022 BRZ Build
2013 FR-S Build
DarkSunrise is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 08:43 AM   #38
s2d4
Senior Member
 
s2d4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R32 GTR, AW11 MR2 SC, GTS86 R
Location: OZ
Posts: 2,615
Thanks: 603
Thanked 1,223 Times in 708 Posts
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
Could I ask what you mean when you say "no need to be up to temp?" I'm no expert, but I thought I read somewhere that low coolant temps could result in up to 20 hp less on the dyno with these engines.
.
All of that was sarcasm.
__________________
s2d4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 08:53 AM   #39
DarkSunrise
Senior Member
 
DarkSunrise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 22 BRZ (Previously 13 FR-S)
Location: USA
Posts: 5,794
Thanks: 2,164
Thanked 4,242 Times in 2,220 Posts
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by s2d4 View Post
All of that was sarcasm.
Doh I skimmed over your post and that went completely over my head
__________________
"Never run out of real estate, traction, and ideas at the same time."

2022 BRZ Build
2013 FR-S Build
DarkSunrise is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 10:11 AM   #40
BuBlake
Chronic Flashturbator
 
BuBlake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: '13 Scion FR-S MT
Location: Texas
Posts: 319
Thanks: 202
Thanked 98 Times in 55 Posts
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
My guess is that the AFR is pegged rich or your IAM is lower than 1. I would gladly take a look at your logs and let you know if I see any problems. Log KC learned, Adv multiplier, AFR, commanded AFR, Engine speed, Engine Load, and MAF voltage. After making a few small adjustments to my own OFT tune I went from sort of feeling like I had a faster car to not being sure if I need forced induction.
__________________
OFT Stg 2 UEL E85 - Borla UEL Header - Invidia Q300 - Invidia catless frontpipe - Fa20club CAI - Billet Power Blocks - Michelin PSS 245/35/18 all around on Motegi Racing SP10 18x8 +38 - Eibach Sportline springs - SPC LCA
BuBlake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 10:36 AM   #41
DarkSunrise
Senior Member
 
DarkSunrise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 22 BRZ (Previously 13 FR-S)
Location: USA
Posts: 5,794
Thanks: 2,164
Thanked 4,242 Times in 2,220 Posts
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuBlake View Post
My guess is that the AFR is pegged rich or your IAM is lower than 1. I would gladly take a look at your logs and let you know if I see any problems. Log KC learned, Adv multiplier, AFR, commanded AFR, Engine speed, Engine Load, and MAF voltage. After making a few small adjustments to my own OFT tune I went from sort of feeling like I had a faster car to not being sure if I need forced induction.
Awesome thanks man. I will try to get some logs in the next few days and post them up.
__________________
"Never run out of real estate, traction, and ideas at the same time."

2022 BRZ Build
2013 FR-S Build
DarkSunrise is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2014, 10:46 AM   #42
wparsons
Senior Member
 
wparsons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FR-S Manual
Location: Whitby, ON, Canada
Posts: 6,716
Thanks: 7,875
Thanked 3,352 Times in 2,134 Posts
Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by ztan View Post
Does it take a while for AVCS to get cam position registration initially sorted after flashing the ROM and doing a run?

I seem to remember a recommendation to let the car idle for at least 30s, if not more, after re-flashing.

OP and Fast_Freddy: was there any settling in time after reflashing between pulls, or did the pull get run straight away (i.e. was there any time for the cam timing to get settled)?
I don't remember what the reasoning is, but it definitely takes a while before VVT changes start happening.

I don't remember how long it normally takes, but I just watch the OFT until the valve timing starts changing and then drive away.
__________________
Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak...
flickr
wparsons is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Quick Review-OpenFlash (Dyno Test) - Stock vs. Vishnu Stage 1.0 vs. Vishnu Stage 1.1 FRSTEVE Software Tuning 105 08-04-2017 04:48 AM
Stock FR-S/BRZ shock dyno & stock FR-S spring dyno xwd Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting 16 08-07-2014 09:04 PM
Stock Dyno vs GReddy Intake Dyno JTOFJPN Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 0 06-01-2014 03:56 AM
Stock Dyno and Perrin Stage 1 Results brillo Software Tuning 4 01-24-2014 08:26 AM
FINAL RESULTS: Taking Full Blown Stage 1 To The MAX! @Pure Automotive (Dyno Inside!) Pure Automotive Forced Induction 57 03-27-2013 11:41 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.