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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 04-27-2012, 05:31 PM   #52
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With a relatively low redline and without variable valve lift, I don't think this engine will see major gains with just I/E/tune. But who knows, Subaru mentioned the engine easily hit its target output on its initial shake-down dyno run, so perhaps there is some untapped potential there.
I think it's a question of how much low end torque you're willing to give up. As Dimman pointed out before, the 3S-GE can make better than Ferrari 458 specific torque with the TRD cams (and ITB/intake assembly, exhaust, and 13.1 compression), but if you're stuck without variable cam profiles then your low end torque basically doesn't exist :P

My proposed solution: a true performance oriented mild hybrid system to boost low end torque so it feels like a 2.4L everywhere
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Old 05-01-2012, 03:56 AM   #53
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I know when I saw the TRD version of the FRS at the Toyota museum. I ask the lady which is the head of TRD USA, what are the HP number on the intake is 9hp and the exhaust is 4hp. I do not know if each gain is the part alone or compounded each other though. But there are numbers to be gain if her statement is which is probably true.
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:20 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
With a relatively low redline and without variable valve lift, I don't think this engine will see major gains with just I/E/tune.
i believe this motor has variable valve timing
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:27 AM   #55
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i believe this motor has variable valve timing
Timing yes. Lift no.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:43 PM   #56
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I'm gonna leave it alone. OEM Bone Stock. The most I'd do is roll around 17 inch rims with some sticky tires in the summer, that's about it. And put snow tires on the stock rims for the winter since I do live in the mountains, god snow driving in this car is going to be interesting, if even feasable? (nothing like driving an impreza in a blizzard) :o
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:37 AM   #57
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No offense but I think Miatas doesnt have a good potential to increase the hp output so I wouldn't compare it with the FA20. I think the engine might have the potential likw the Honda K20A so 20-30whp may be possible.
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:34 AM   #58
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No offense but I think Miatas doesnt have a good potential to increase the hp output so I wouldn't compare it with the FA20. I think the engine might have the potential likw the Honda K20A so 20-30whp may be possible.
I'm still scared to try to crack this cars' ECU though.

KA20's you could do all kinds of shit too, may bee I just have to wait, as I'm not gonna be the guinea pig.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:23 AM   #59
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If I/H/E/T might give roughly 20hp+ then what would be the additional gain numbers adding a TRD/HKS SC?
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:44 PM   #60
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im leaning toward a sc for the first time. seems less maintenance then turbo. hks made 394whp with the sc.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:55 AM   #61
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im leaning toward a sc for the first time. seems less maintenance then turbo. hks made 394whp with the sc.
that wasnt just the sc kit though, they changed a few internal components and whatnot. Realistically you'll gain 50-70hp with a sc kit.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:13 AM   #62
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What about a port n polish along with I/h/e/t and SC
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:08 PM   #63
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P&P isn't generally worth a whole lot. It's more of a 'I want to spend money on a bad bang/buck mod' for most cars. :P

edit: At least for mild builds, that is.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:12 PM   #64
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Cams before port work.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:12 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by AJ PwR View Post
No offense but I think Miatas doesnt have a good potential to increase the hp output so I wouldn't compare it with the FA20. I think the engine might have the potential likw the Honda K20A so 20-30whp may be possible.
The older miatass have great motors for turbo, and the duratec/mzr is no slouch either...
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:34 AM   #66
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that wasnt just the sc kit though, they changed a few internal components and whatnot. Realistically you'll gain 50-70hp with a sc kit.
yea that's true. idk what to do about the compression though. its so high for stock and the car comes with equal length headers, that's 2 big power increases for Na applications.
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:56 AM   #67
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If I were going to modify the car I would start by looking at ways maximize the amount of power being put down at the wheels. Improving the efficiency of the stock engine will bump the torque and HP curves up without any low end loss. A good place to start would be replacing the stock flywheel with a light weight aftermarket flywheel. Follow this with lightened pulleys and a lighter drive shaft. Finally get lighter wheels.

Although you don't improve the power of the engine at the crank, you do get more power being put down at the wheels. Other benefits include better fuel economy, better response, easier heal-toe, less stress on the engine (improved reliability) and lighter weight over all. The only down side is everyday drivability; especially with a sub 10 lb fly wheel.
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