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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
View Poll Results: I have used speed bleeders long term (2+ years) and had - | |||
no issues with them, would recommend | 16 | 84.21% | |
minor issues with them, but still would recommend | 0 | 0% | |
minor issues with them, so would NOT recommend | 2 | 10.53% | |
major issues with them, so would NOT recommend | 1 | 5.26% | |
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll |
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05-13-2014, 11:49 PM | #29 | |
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1) top off the reservoir 2) hook up the power bleeder 3) pressurize 4) crack open the bleeder 5) watch the reservoir to ensure it's not going dry 6) close the bleeder 7) depressurize 8) unhook the power bleeder 9) repeat steps 1-8 a good 5-10 times until your fluid is all flushed from each corner and fresh fluid is throughout your entire system. It makes a LOT more sense to fill up the bottle, rather than unhooking the whole contraption every time you need to "top off" I assume you're doing the above steps, correct? Have you used speed bleeders? Or are you just assuming you'll like the power bleeder better? I like both products, but to say the power bleeder is easier to use is just ridiculous. |
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05-13-2014, 11:51 PM | #30 | |
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If the power bleeder makes your life easier, that's all that matters |
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05-13-2014, 11:55 PM | #31 | |
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"9) repeat 5-10 times" is talking out your ass I never go over 10psi out of paranoia and even that was enough to do both front ap calipers having to repump once. The rear passenger I repumped maybe 3 times and that included pushing out the contents of the old reservoir. It takes roughly 5 seconds to hit 10 psi, or maybe I'm just good at jerking rods |
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05-13-2014, 11:56 PM | #32 |
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You should probably google before posting any more.
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05-13-2014, 11:57 PM | #33 | |
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05-14-2014, 12:01 AM | #34 |
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05-14-2014, 12:03 AM | #35 | |
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This is stupid, You should try google instead of posting out your ass. I'm done segwaying this thread |
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05-14-2014, 12:10 AM | #36 |
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05-14-2014, 09:05 AM | #37 |
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Vroom4, were they stainless steel ones or regular non-ss ones?
Thanks.
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05-14-2014, 09:15 AM | #38 |
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Yes this seems like a good idea moving the valve to the tube. But then am guessing the seal at the bleeder to the tube point becomes the weakest link where air could get in. That seal needs to be real good. Anyone have experience with these?
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05-14-2014, 09:55 AM | #39 | |
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Your steps are unnecessary though. Once it's filled with 1L or 2L of fluid, depending on your preference, there's no need to ever unhook it from the reservoir until you're done. Maybe repressurize (couple pumps, who cares), but definitely not unhook it, fill it up, and hook it back up - those are supposed to be done right the first (and only) time. Once pressurized, you simply go from caliper to caliper watching the bubbles and brake fluid color - not sure how that's slower than anything else, especially since you're not returning to the cabin to depress the brake pedal. |
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05-14-2014, 01:12 PM | #40 | |
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05-14-2014, 02:07 PM | #41 |
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Hmmm...Im gonna have to check this Motive out or buy it. It does sound much easier than Speed Bleeder valves/bottles the more I read about it:
-No need to enter cabin to pump (which makes you unable to see the bled fluid moving in the bleed tube "live" (at the same time as you're pumping to check for air bubbles/new fluid)..you can only check your bleed tube after you leave the cabin and while the fluid is in a static state. -No need to worry about and keep rechecking if that small master cylinder reservoir is full and keep refilling it as you pump/bleed (just fill the large motive reservoir once with a good amount, 2L, and you're good to go) ..biggest things/main points, is that you don't need to pump brake pedal in cabin and also you can actually see the fluid moving "live" to easily see when the fluid turns into the new fluid and also bubbles..which is still a little guessing game if you're stuck in the cabin pumping. |
05-14-2014, 02:15 PM | #42 | |
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