Stripped Wheel Bolt - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Flame9020 · 03-07-2018, 08:48 PM

I was changing my wheels the other day and noticed that all but one lug nut would torque to 100ft.lbs. The last would just spin and spin and spin so I think the bolt might be stripped. This happened with two other nuts I tried. I can crank it down until it tightens but then it's extremely hard to remove.

Questions are:
1. If the bolt is stripped where can I buy more/what part is it?
2. Are there bolts that are better/less prone to stripping than the stock bolts?

guybo · 03-07-2018, 08:57 PM

1) 100 ft-lbs is way beyond spec. 2) the damage was probably done by the last person to put the wheels on (cross threaded) 3) the lug nuts might have stretched threads and that's the issue with them not wanting to back off.

Leonardo · 03-07-2018, 09:01 PM

I just replaced all of mine with a ball joint separator. It was fairly easy. i got extended ones, so dont have a part# for you.

VIP BRZ · 03-07-2018, 09:08 PM

you can purchase a new stud from your dealer but they are prone to stripping

APR makes a more solid stud
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/arp-...l#.WqCM4WrwZhE

Teseo · 03-07-2018, 10:11 PM

A pie-size of antiseize on threads for next time makes wonder too

guybo · 03-08-2018, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teseo

A pie-size of antiseize on threads for next time makes wonder too

never use any grease or antiseize on lug studs! They go on dry because anything on the studs changes the torque. Plus they are designed to seize up to a point- you don't want them backing off

tyler_win_photo · 03-08-2018, 06:17 AM

1) Factory spec is around 89 ft-lbs.

2) You've likely stripped the stud if you can free spin and it's not getting any tighter. That's a more labor intensive job than simply finding a new lug nut. You're going to need a press to get that thing in. I would recommend upgraded studs like ARP.

finch1750 · 03-08-2018, 12:49 PM

ARP studs require removal of the hub FYI. There is a DIY one the forum how to do it without a press, but a press is the correct way.

For now the OEM from the dealer is cheap and can be installed while it is still on the car (if in the rear you just need to rotate the hub around to get clearance to pull it out the back). Then use the washer method to install. And you might need a new lug nut while you are at it

Leonardo · 03-08-2018, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyler_win_photo

1) Factory spec is around 89 ft-lbs.

2) You've likely stripped the stud if you can free spin and it's not getting any tighter. That's a more labor intensive job than simply finding a new lug nut. You're going to need a press to get that thing in. I would recommend upgraded studs like ARP.

A ball joint separator will easily remove and install the lug studs without removing the hub. A press is nice, but not necessary. I did all 20 of mine in an hour.

wparsons · 03-08-2018, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leonardo

A ball joint separator will easily remove and install the lug studs without removing the hub. A press is nice, but not necessary. I did all 20 of mine in an hour.

You can install stock or extended in the front like that, but only stock length in the rear. To get the ARP studs in the rear you have to pull the hub out of the knuckle.

DAEMANO · 03-08-2018, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wparsons

You can install stock or extended in the front like that, but only stock length in the rear. To get the ARP studs in the rear you have to pull the hub out of the knuckle.

This is the correct answer

Leonardo · 03-08-2018, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wparsons

You can install stock or extended in the front like that, but only stock length in the rear. To get the ARP studs in the rear you have to pull the hub out of the knuckle.

I just took off the rear rotor to get to them. I installed extended studs.

EDIT: I did not install ARP studs. If there is something different about them, I could be wrong about the process working with them. Mine are Ichiba +5mm rear studs that I installed with the ball joint tool. Additionally, there is zero way to mess up the threads using the ball joint separator to install over the "washer method".

finch1750 · 03-08-2018, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leonardo

I just took off the rear rotor to get to them. I installed extended studs.

EDIT: I did not install ARP studs. If there is something different about them, I could be wrong about the process working with them. Mine are Ichiba +5mm rear studs that I installed with the ball joint tool. Additionally, there is zero way to mess up the threads using the ball joint separator to install over the "washer method".

ARP studs are about 2" longer then stock. They will not clear for the install without removing the hub in the rear

What style ball joint tool did you use? I see 2-3 kinds when I google it and have only used a fork myself

Leonardo · 03-08-2018, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finch1750

ARP studs are about 2" longer then stock. They will not clear for the install without removing the hub in the rear

What style ball joint tool did you use? I see 2-3 kinds when I google it and have only used a fork myself

via Imgflip Meme Generator

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEYz3Z8rHgo"]Lone Wolf Racing Honda S2000 Using a ball joint separator to remove wheel studs - YouTube[/ame]

Press out the old, flip tool over, press in the new.

03-07-2018, 08:48 PM	#1
Flame9020 Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Drives: 2015 Scion FR-S Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 31 Thanks: 9 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Stripped Wheel Bolt I was changing my wheels the other day and noticed that all but one lug nut would torque to 100ft.lbs. The last would just spin and spin and spin so I think the bolt might be stripped. This happened with two other nuts I tried. I can crank it down until it tightens but then it's extremely hard to remove. Questions are: 1. If the bolt is stripped where can I buy more/what part is it? 2. Are there bolts that are better/less prone to stripping than the stock bolts?

03-07-2018, 09:01 PM	#3
Leonardo Country Boy 4 Life Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 19' & 06' Ridgelines, 13' FR-S Location: EUGENE Posts: 5,228 Thanks: 6,719 Thanked 5,293 Times in 2,720 Posts Mentioned: 47 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I just replaced all of mine with a ball joint separator. It was fairly easy. i got extended ones, so dont have a part# for you. __________________ I LIKE TIRES!

03-08-2018, 06:17 AM	#7
tyler_win_photo Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Drives: 2014 Scion FRS (Asphalt) Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 559 Thanks: 39 Thanked 173 Times in 143 Posts Mentioned: 6 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	1) Factory spec is around 89 ft-lbs. 2) You've likely stripped the stud if you can free spin and it's not getting any tighter. That's a more labor intensive job than simply finding a new lug nut. You're going to need a press to get that thing in. I would recommend upgraded studs like ARP. __________________ AVO Stage 2 Turbo Build Thread https://wheelwell.com/tyler-nguyen-1...014-scion-fr-s

03-08-2018, 12:49 PM	#8
finch1750 Undisputed El Presidente Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Zenki 37J ZN6 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 11,593 Thanks: 9,403 Thanked 9,411 Times in 5,270 Posts Mentioned: 374 Post(s) Tagged: 33 Thread(s)	ARP studs require removal of the hub FYI. There is a DIY one the forum how to do it without a press, but a press is the correct way. For now the OEM from the dealer is cheap and can be installed while it is still on the car (if in the rear you just need to rotate the hub around to get clearance to pull it out the back). Then use the washer method to install. And you might need a new lug nut while you are at it __________________ "Just like how a strut bar somehow enables you to corner 20MPH faster around a cloverleaf on-ramp, when the reality is, you can do it already but you just don't have to balls to do it." - CSG David

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03-07-2018, 08:57 PM	#2
guybo Huge E85 fan! Join Date: May 2016 Drives: 2016 Scion FRS Location: Tampa, FL, USA Posts: 1,850 Thanks: 539 Thanked 1,010 Times in 605 Posts Mentioned: 32 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	1) 100 ft-lbs is way beyond spec. 2) the damage was probably done by the last person to put the wheels on (cross threaded) 3) the lug nuts might have stretched threads and that's the issue with them not wanting to back off.

03-07-2018, 09:08 PM	#4
VIP BRZ Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Location: CA - San Fernando Valley Posts: 491 Thanks: 242 Thanked 333 Times in 179 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	you can purchase a new stud from your dealer but they are prone to stripping APR makes a more solid stud http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/arp-...l#.WqCM4WrwZhE

03-07-2018, 10:11 PM	#5
Teseo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Drives: frs Location: Gunsai Posts: 4,951 Thanks: 7,461 Thanked 2,978 Times in 1,801 Posts Mentioned: 23 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	A pie-size of antiseize on threads for next time makes wonder too

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