I need help

[kqchung]

So i'm a complete noobie at this but i have a raven frs and I finally have some money to add new stuff to the car. So i was wondering what are your thoughts on these?

BC Racing BR Series Coilovers, lowered about 2-3 fingers between fender and tire.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/BC-Racing-Coilovers-12-13-Scion/dp/B00E0PSW1U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416511006&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=frs+coilover+yellow"]Amazon.com: BC Racing BR Series Coilovers 12-13 Scion FR-S - ZN6: Automotive[/ame]

or

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6JO512/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf _rd_s=desktop-2&pf_rd_r=1P4J0H3VC42YD941G4HD&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd _p=1976646602&pf_rd_i=desktop"]Amazon.com: Tein (GSQ54-1USS2) Street Basis Coilover: Automotive[/ame]

As for tires

Enkei rs05rr 18x8.5, I'm not sure about the other numbers. I for sure dont want any rubbing or fixing the fenders. so if anyone knows the set that would be great.

So if someone could help me out I would appreciate it.

[swarb]

both are entry level. tein basis have height adjustment only and some say they dont go that low, but low enough if u want 2-3 fingers gap. bc have camber plates and adjustable rebound. 6k/4k rates on the bc not sure of the tein.

Buy from forum seller, and or local, evasive, etc, if u run into any problems they can help you. Otherwise its luck of the draw from online retailers that send wrong parts and you have to pay return shipping.

Race comp engineering aka rce have many good reviews and I would suggest you look them up.

[cdrazic93]

If youre willing to buy RS05RR's spend some more money for much better quality coilovers. Hell you could even get a combo setup thats better than some coilover setups. KW, Bilstein, RCE, ST, Feal, RS*R have very good quality coilovers compared to Tein entry level and BC entry level for >$2,000.

[kqchung]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

If youre willing to buy RS05RR's spend some more money for much better quality coilovers. Hell you could even get a combo setup thats better than some coilover setups. KW, Bilstein, RCE, ST, Feal, RS*R have very good quality coilovers compared to Tein entry level and BC entry level for >$2,000.

Thanks for the ideas! Those coilovers are ones my friend told me about but I'm open ears here trying to stay under $4500 for rims, tires and coilovers.

I was think I may get gramlight 57 xtreme at 17x9 245/40/17 ET 40, well thats what my friend said. what are your thoughts. and What coilovers would best suit that?

[PNW FRS]

From massive amounts of reading on this sub-forum re: struts, coil overs, etc... and my own 6 months of dealing with similar product and all the post-install quirks... consider the following:

- Any coil over that does not come with a Torrington Bearing (upper spring perch) may end up giving you annoying spring bind (noise) depending on how far you drop. I ended up "two fingers" of gap and had to spend $100 on a set of Torrington Bearings (from Fortune-Auto) and $75 labor to have a wrench take off the struts so I could do the install of the TB. Coil bind gone! (Huzzah).

- My coil over set came with replacement end links (for connection to sway bar). The replacements are shorter... but adjustable. After using them "as-is" i.e., shortest length... I'm getting binding noise.... so I go in tomorrow to have a suspension guy work on finding a better length to end that noise. (More $$....)

- Mine came with camber plates... in the case of my coil overs... after the rear struts are installed and the drop made.. the negative camber of rear wheels was evident and having camber plates at front allowed adjustment of front.

- Confirm with your vendor that there will be a set of REAL documentation from the manufacturer... and a packing list so you know you have all the parts (mine didn't have either and I was shorted a bolt that holds down the brake line to the strut body... had to scrounge one up during the install.

- Don't forget you'll need an alignment after the drop... give the setup a week or so to let the springs settle-in... and try to find an alignment shop that understand the nuance you've added to the OEM setup. Not every shop (i.e., technician) is qualified -- s/he may only "know" OEM.


Anyway... good luck with the decision.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by PNW FRS

- Mine came with camber plates... you'll need these b/c when you put the rear struts on, you'll notice the negative camber after the drop.

Two things:

1. Camber plates are for the front of the car, not the rear. To adjust rear camber you'll want adjustable rear LCAs.

2. Not every car/driver needs camber plates. It depends on the coilover since some allow you to adjust camber at the lower mount (like KW and RCE). Also depends on how you use the car and if you need the extra negative camber that plates will get you. If you track or auto-x the car often then yes they can be helpful but for most street drivers a quiet OEM mount will be a better choice.

- Andy

[Captain Snooze]

Off topic but in future you might like to make your topic heading a little more informative.
"I need help" gives no indication what you need help with. You need help with making scones? We don't know.
"Thoughts on BC Racing BR Series Coilovers?" lets us know exactly what the thread is about.

[DAEMANO]

Listen to Andy @Racecomp Engineering

Since you're not going for a very aggressive drop, springs, shocks and wheels and a more street oriented tire might be a better idea. If you're getting coils for camber plates, then save money by just adding camber bolts, they'll reliably get you -1.5 front camber. The rear will add natural negative camber as you lower it. You'll save money, improve performance and get the look you're going for.

I hate using "fingers" for ride height, but here's my experience with springs. So if I had to eyeball it...

Stock = 2.5 finger gap
- .5" = 2.0 finger gap = RS*R Down Sus + Aftermarket bumpstops or cut OEM bumpstop or Racecomp Tarmac Kit (note - track/autoX rate)
- .8" = 1.5 finger gap = RaceComp Yellow Kit (includes new shorter bumpstops)
- 1.0" = 1.2 finger gap = Eibach ProKit (includes new shorter bumpstops) or Mach V lowering springs + Aftermarket bumpstops or cut OEM bumpstop
- 1.2" = 1.0 finger gap = RS*R Superdowns or CG lowering springs + new Aftermarket bumpstops
- 1.4 = .8 finger gap = Eibach Sportline or Tein S-Techs + new Aftermarket bumpstops
-1.6 = .6 finger gap = Coilovers meant for riding this low.

Now that I did that I'm going home to take a shower.

[kqchung]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Off topic but in future you might like to make your topic heading a little more informative.
"I need help" gives no indication what you need help with. You need help with making scones? We don't know.
"Thoughts on BC Racing BR Series Coilovers?" lets us know exactly what the thread is about.

My bad i'm trying to learn/figure out what i want on my car; wasn't sure how to title it.
Just your guys opinion about this set up?
gramlight 57 xtreme 17x9 ET40, with the bc coilover + swift springs at 8k front and 10k rear?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by kqchung

My bad i'm trying to learn/figure out what i want on my car; wasn't sure how to title it.
Just your guys opinion about this set up?
gramlight 57 xtreme 17x9 ET40, with the bc coilover + swift springs at 8k front and 10k rear?

What's your goal with the car? Daily driver, auto-x, track days?

What type of tire are you planning on running? What's your budget?

- Andy

[kqchung]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

What's your goal with the car? Daily driver, auto-x, track days?

What type of tire are you planning on running? What's your budget?

- Andy

its a daily driver but i want to be able to track it too. umm my buddy told me to get hanhook rs3 for tires. my budget for everything somewhere around 3.5-4k. if i could do it for less i would be extrememly happy

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by kqchung

My bad i'm trying to learn/figure out what i want on my car; wasn't sure how to title it.
Just your guys opinion about this set up?
gramlight 57 xtreme 17x9 ET40, with the bc coilover + swift springs at 8k front and 10k rear?

I don't need to be as qualified as Andy over here to tell you for a DD, 8K and 10K springs are going to make your valving in your dampers really soft. Shoot for maybe 4-5k for the front and 6-7k for the back. This should provide decent resistance to body roll, while still have competent valving in your dampers to work at lower than stock height at 60+mph.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by kqchung

its a daily driver but i want to be able to track it too. umm my buddy told me to get hanhook rs3 for tires. my budget for everything somewhere around 3.5-4k. if i could do it for less i would be extrememly happy

How far do you want to lower it? Do you care?

[Boofneenee]

Originally Posted by kqchung

Thanks for the ideas! Those coilovers are ones my friend told me about but I'm open ears here trying to stay under $4500 for rims, tires and coilovers.

I was think I may get gramlight 57 xtreme at 17x9 245/40/17 ET 40, well thats what my friend said. what are your thoughts. and What coilovers would best suit that?

omg with a budget of $4500 fuck the suspension upgrades. go FI already