I am going to be installing a torque amp electronic supercharger on my car.
From what I have seen it will make more power than the phantom as it spins at 70k rpm but has a smaller compressor.
I am expecting close to 6 psi on the initial hit and then a couple of PSI up top.
I am going to activate the ESC via the TPS sensor wire.
I have OFH and and am using the open flash tablet and their custom tuning to dial in the map.
My kit ships out 7/17 and I will update the build progress here after I receive it.
I believe that I am the only one that is going to be running this on a twin.
EDIT*** Install guide below****:
Here is a complete list of all the parts required for the install:
1x 3in ID pipe. The perfect length is 2.5-3".
I used something similar to this but a bit shorter.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Exh...es&sr=8-6&th=1
2x 3in silicon hoses
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093LL64LY...t_details&th=1
1x 3 to 2 in silicon reducer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Y7W572...roduct_details
2x 1/2in to 1/2in fuel line barb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3L6912...roduct_details
1x 1/2in fuel line
you only need a foot or two of this.
1x 1&1/2in PVC pipe rubber cap clamps
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FP3NMSH...roduct_details
1x mini low profile fuse tap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K3N64WW...roduct_details
If you are using the optional control box to control the boost via tps or tps and a combination of other settings I highly recommend these to make tapping into the wires easy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN...t_details&th=1
You will also want some zip ties and electrical tape to run the cables.
Installation process:
Remove the MAF sensor by removing the two screws.
Unbolt the factory airbox by removing the three bolts and loosening the hose clamp. (it's pretty self explanatory but there is one bolt on the front of the airbox one on the front of the resonator and one on the back right of the airbox down low).
Once you have the airbox and resonator off you need to drill the rivets that are holding the resonator on in the side of the tube. Once you drill them out remove the resonator and cap the opening with the pvc pipe cap.
Next, pull off the 90-degree elbow with the hose attached to the 1/2in tube that is going into the intake tube.
Once that is off loosen the hose clamp on the engine side that is holding the intake tube on and remove the intake tube.
Reinstall the airbox.
Before installing the compressor you want to drill a small hole in the middle of 1 of the 3 in silicon hoses. You want this to be just smaller than the 1/2in fuel line barb. Once you have the hole drilled insert the barb. Mine was such a tight fit that I probably didn't need to use any adhesive but i added some anyway. If you add adhesive to the barb make sure that none gets on the inside of the pipe.
Now install the 3 in-silicon hose without the hole to the throttle body and tighten the hose clamp partially. slip the 3in metal pipe into the silicon and then put the 3 to 2-in reducer on the other end. Do not fully tighten the clamps yet.
Install and tighten the 3in silicon hose with the hole in the middle to the airbox. Make sure the hole is level and facing the rear of the vehicle.
Insert the turbo and tighten all the hose clamps.
insert a 1/2in barb into the line that originally was plugged into the intake with a 90 degree elbow. (remove the elbow before inserting). Then add the 1/2in fuel line to the end of the barb, trim to length and attach it to the barb on the silicon hose.
Now place the 48 battery in your chosen install location (I used the trunk)
Run the wires through the cabin and firewall. the easiest location is to go under the passenger doorwell.
I removed the sound intake tube which is underneath the passenger carpet under the glove box. I then ran all of my wires through here. There is already a rubber grommet here, and there are a few wires so it's a lot easier than using the harness hole. Just make sure to pop out the plastic insert from the cabin and pull the hose out from the engine bay
Now trim the wires to length and attach the battery ring terminals to the battery.
The red connector goes into the motor controller make sure to plug the motor controller into the compressor(the gray plug goes in the compressor) prior to mounting it and trimming the wires as the wires aren't that long. I mounted mine in the right front of the engine bay to keep it cool.
Plug the temperature sensors into the compressor and motor controller.
If you are using the simple pedal switch go to the cabin and mount the switch under your pedal. Then install the supplied button in a place of your choosing. You can also wire up an auto-on relay per the instruction manual.
I mounted mine right above the cigarette lighter in the console. The button displays useful information such as boost status and error states.
If you are using the control box. unplug the 3 wires(black, yellow, red) from the pedal switch and run them through the firewall to the engine bay. Then plug them into the control box (colors are labeled on the box). (I found it easier to cut the connectors off and re-attach them once I had them through the firewall) then plug in the large black connector with scews to the control box and you need to locate the black, orange, and red wires. insert your fuse tap into a switched fuse (most all fuses should be switched but I used the 15amp one at the front) in the fuse box. Insert the original fuse in the bottom slot and the new circuit fuse in the top slot (closest to the wire coming off of the tap). The fuse box will close but it will be tight. Then attach the red wire from the large black connector to the fuse tap. Now take the orange wire and connect it to the red and white wire coming out of the throttle. (this is just to the right of the intake and is metal with a black plastic top). I used the tap connectors linked above to make it easy.
Then take the black wire from the connector and attach it to a ground or ground wire. Mount the control box using adhesive or self-tapping screws. I mounted it with 2 screws into the lid of the fuse box. Just make sure to pick a place where there are no fuses that you could hit when drilling.
Now clean up all the wires and ensure that everything is working properly.
The best way to do this is to unplug the red 48v cable from the 48v battery and turn on the car to acc and with the torque amp powered on ensure that the button flashes (boosting) at the desired throttle position and functions correctly.
If you are using the control box you can easily adjust the settings by loosening the screws on the control box and removing the cover. you will see 2 blue potentiometers with screws near the black pressure sensor. Turning the #1 screw (closer to the fat part of the pressure sensor) changes the throttle point at which the compressor will supply low boost. Turning the other screw changes how quickly the compressor will ramp up to full boost. you can plug your pc in and check the settings in the control box to make sure everything is working properly. If you are not seeing full boost turn the #2 screw until you get 100% in the torque amp column at the desired throttle position. Refer to the manual before doing so as it can be a little confusing your first time. It is really pretty easy though. You can even go wild and program your own curves and set up rpm and gear dependent boost and so on but I won't go into that as it is all in the manual. FYI it is pretty involved and will require additional wiring if you chose to boost by rpm and gear.
Once you are happy with the settings and are sure that the system is functioning properly plug back in the red connector and you are all set!