[pcguru2000]

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

I will repeat the thought that you are over-thinking this whole thing. Firstly, you don't draw the run current from the dome circuit, you only draw the signal from the ECU-side ground wire that controls the dim relative to the door trigger inputs. Relays and diodes are there to isolate the circuits, not drive them directly. If you aren't grasping that, speak with an experienced MECP professional.

Diodes don't isolate circuits they prevent reverse polarity. Are you testing me? My relay is driven off of one circuit and controls continuity on the 2nd. I know the flowchart software sucks so there may be what looks like excessive connections which is is really a distribution block to the different LED's and Neons.

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

As for the underglows, you're using older tech and integrating it with new, so you're going to feel wanting when it's done. Your choice obviously, but you will notice the dated look. LEDs are now the preferred option for many reasons, including robust tolerance and cheap manufacture costs.

I like the retro looks and neons actually looks better than LED because there's no spot affect at any distance. The only downside is power draw (cant' have these on all night but they won't be unless my door is open), heat (negligible effect since they are going to be in the engine bad and inside the rear bumper. Can get as cheap as free. These are 10 years old and I wanted to put them to good use. I enjoy the nostalgic look and will probably also get the louvers windows.

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

Do more research into how the door trigger and dome light circuits work in these cars. You have it completely backwards in believing that power is supplied. Power is constant to the dome light at all times, it's the ground that is your trigger.

I completely understand how they work, I just don't want to molest the connections.

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

Secondly, it doesn't matter what route you take the dealership is going to blame it on whatever modification you do. If your fear is having warranty issues with these mods, then don't do them. Again you run a larger risk by creating an entirely new system and then integrating that into the vehicle, don't think they won't notice. Especially considering the extensive work it would take to remove said system in case of dealer repairs. I repeat, cleaner install is the better install.

It's not black and white like you make it out to be. There are variations in risks of voiding the warranty and being able to prove by a preponderance of the evidence that a modification did not void the warranty. If you attach a wire or use a circuit in the car as a switch, there's a greater burden of proof on you that this did not void the warranty. Thus a large risk to a warranty voiding scenario but a small level of complexity. "The easy way"

I created my own mechanism completely separate from the manufacturers' mechanism that detects the door being open. There is no plausible causality for any damage to other circuits. Thus a small risk to warranty voiding scenario since you are not touching their equipment, but a higher level of complexity. "The hard way" but may not be the right way and definitely not the easy way.

The only thing I was concerned about is the small magnetic field emanating from the magnet that will be attached to the door. (this controls the open/closed door switch).

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

Many people get remote starts installed on their brand new or leased vehicles, and remove them after their term is up. We don't run a whole new system, we install to the factory system and use all the triggers it provides. This is the exact same concept.

Sure, and if there are starter issues, ignition issues, engine computer issues during the time this is hooked up, the owner has to deal with proving to the dealer that this is completely unrelated. If I needed to get a remote start installed, I'd bring you the car and hope to get a guarantee from you that any damage your installation causes, you will repair at your expense. Of course, more likely, your invoice indemnifies you of every wrong doing and you probably can only be sued in the state of delaware, right? So you're not worried that you might get sued.

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

This may offend you, but it's obvious you know just enough about electronics to be dangerous. That is the core of why you're over-analyzing the crap out of this situation. Do what you feel is best for you, but you asked for reasons not to and I gave them along with thorough explanations from practical experience. It's your choice which route you prefer to go.

No longer dangerous...but I was when I was 10 years old and I built from scratch a vhf tv signal jammer to annoy my mom watching TV, and later I found out it was jamming every tv in the neighborhood. (This is before cable tv so yes, i'm dating myself). Sounds to me like you got a little intimidated at someone finding an alternate way to do something that threatens your installation business. Sorry about that, but hopefully this gives you an alternative if a customer says "I don't want to cut into any wires." Try to keep an open mind that the way your boss at best buy told you to hook up a door activated device may not be the only possibility. Open your mind young skywalker.

I've done low voltage and high voltage installation and still kicking, never had an issue.

I was hoping to get additional ideas of what else you could use a door trigger for..i.e. a completely hidden car alarm that doesn't use any ecu, built in door switch, windows level, trunk etc trigger.

Or maybe you have an integrated reed switch into a relay that I haven't heard about.

Or maybe a strobe light kit that strobes when the doors are opened.

Or sound affects that activate when the door is open.