Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
Hey Gem, these look good but educate me, what do these do for you?
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Well, I'm not the engineer who made them Jeff Perrin is, so he's better off answering this but I will try
Inside the Energy suspension bushing is a molded in steel insert, that has the inner workings of -well, the best analogy would be a ball and socket.
See pictures, million words..
-Then, realize the factory design is like a hockey puck sized rubber of softer durometer, rather than urethane, and its not captive internally, its just bonded on both sides to metal plates. These bonds are the failure points. Sure its got a level of captivity to its design as well, but not the same. Its been known to both fail and give to excessive movement under high loads, especially when they get hot, and where I live, it does get pretty hot, then you add the way I drive, more power and catering to my pleasure as a lab rat for FI, it made sense to buy these and benefit their added bonuses. Set it and forget it type of build, buy the stuff that will make you enjoy it the most.
-The Perrin mount is not only captive, but also of stiffer material than stock, and of more robust design overall. Ideal for anyone exceeding the stock vehicle power specs, and I'd say essential for folks adding FI as far as having a mount thats more stout than stock. Safety with greater MTBF and load capacity.
-Like any hardened motor mount, it will help reduce the entire drivetrain movement under acceleration and deceleration, which assists in more efficiently transmiting more power to the ground.
-improved reliability under racing and other extreme conditions that can tear apart OEM mounts, which can make for a bad day at the track.
-Differences-like any car mounts on a Subaru absorb the vibration from the engine and keep the engine in place while it is running, but you can feel more NVH, while havent put this on my BRZ yet, I have HD mounts on other vehicles in my garage, so I'm pretty familiar with the added NVH, and as Perrins blog points out, its mostly at idle, and mostly for folks who arent on a stock tune, so the rpms can be raised 100-150 to get out of that idle where the motor's "resonant operational frequency" is low enough to be felt. Just a little should do the trick. I like how they feel, I can 'read' my motor better.
if youre bone stock you may enjoy it, but I doubt its at all justifiable unless youre like drag racing your stock car, but who does that?
hope that helps