[DarrenDriven]

Section Two: Removing and Replacing the Front Strut

I am going to start on the driver's side front strut. Everything on the passenger side will be exactly the same, so please remember to do BOTH sides or else everyone driving behind you will think that you are really fat.



8: Let's start with removing the ABS signal lines from the strut. They are attached with two different plastic clips, let's start with the top one. Start by pushing down on the backside top of the clip with a long flat-tipped screwdriver to release the upper catch mechanism. As you do this, gently pull the wire above the clip away from the strut to prevent the catch from doing its job.



9: Now use your flat-tipped screwdriver as a lever against the bolt below the clip to push the lower catch up. This should release the clip entirely so you can pull it out of the strut assembly.



10: The lower plastic clip is even easier. Just push your flat-tipped screwdriver into the tab where the arrow indicates, and that will release the catch and the cable.



11: The brake hydraulic line needs to be detached from the strut assembly using a 12mm socket and a 9" extension. Hold your socket wrench low and the long extension makes unbolting this line a snap.



12: Unbolt your swaybar link from the strut assembly. Once the nut has been removed you might realize that there is not enough room to push the link out of the hole. Grrrr...



13: Take a moment to unbolt the link on the passenger side! This will remove tension from the swaybar and now you can easily remove the links from the struts on both sides at the same time. Lay the swaybar link to the side so it is out of your way.



14: Now remove the two 19mm nuts from the bottom of the strut assembly. You should turn the nut with the socket and use your wrench on the bolt side.



15: A little wiggling and your two bolts should come right out. The bolts are a little different from each other, but don't worry because they will only fit back in the correct way.



16: Now that your bolts are out you can tip the hub assembly forward. There is enough slack in the brake lines that you won't hurt them by letting the hub fall forward.



17: OK, now pop the hood (if you haven't already) and remove the three strut top nuts using a deep 12mm socket. When you remove the third nut your strut is going to fall! Use your other hand to hold it, or have a second person help you here.



18: Wahoo! Here is your front strut! Now we get to disassemble it.



19: Remove the dust cap from the top of the strut.



20: Here is my shadetree system for removing a spring safely from a strut. The spring is under pressure and if you just unbolt the top then it will likely shoot off. With a wheel pinning the strut against an immoveable object, and a 2nd person using their foot to push against the wheel, you don't have to worry about any violent action. Additionally, I use an additional piece of plywood over the spring that I stand on just in case it wants to move up. (see plywood being held at top of photo) These springs did not have much potential force and unbolting the top bolt with a deep 14mm socket was very anticlimactic. This method ONLY works with an air impact wrench.

(Since writing this, I have simply started removing the nut by holding the strut vertically, pushing down with all of my weight with the impact wrench, then simply zipping the nut off. There just isn't enough pressure to cause a catastrophic reaction. This is potentially very dangerous, and I would not recommend ever doing it with hand tools as you just can't put enough downward pressure on the strut with a socket wrench. Try this at your own risk... I have had no issues, but if you hurt yourself then don't blame me!)

If you do not have an impact wrench then the only correct way is by using spring compressors. They are available at pretty much any auto parts store, and I think they are free loaners at Autozone. If you have ANY doubts about this step you should take your struts to an auto repair shop and have them remove your springs.



21: Here are your strut components. Old boring stock spring on top and new Eibach spring on the bottom, along with the new bumpstop.



22: Remove your old bumpstop and install the new one with the larger hole end going on first.



23: Here is what the new bumpstop should look like when it is installed.



24: Slip the boot over the bumpstop.



25: Install the spring with the more compressed end at the bottom of the strut. Push the strut top onto the spring, paying attention to where the original spring made an indentation into the rubber underneath. Push down on the top of the strut and secure the nut. Again, an impact wrench makes this much easier, but hand-thread the nut first so you don't cross-thread it with the impact wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can use the impact, but don't hammer the nut... just get it tight and leave it.
Strut Top Nut Torque: 41 ft-lb



26: Reinstall the dust cap onto the top of the strut.




27: Slip the strut back into the wheel well and get the bolts lined up with the holes, then hand-tighten the nuts. It does not matter which direction the top gets reinstalled, any direction is OK. Tighten the three nuts.
Strut Tower Nuts (x3) Torque: 17 ft-lb



28: Use some muscle and line the hub assembly back up with the strut. Remember, the two bolts are different so install the bolt with the larger shoulder into the larger hole. Preschool skills, people!



29: Again, tighten the nut and hold the bolt from moving.
Strut to Hub Assy Nuts (x2) Torque: 114 ft-lb




30: Reinstall the 12mm bolt that holds the brake line to the strut and clip the ABS signal line back on. Your first front strut is now finished.

Brake Line Bracket Bolt Torque: 24 ft-lb

*** Repeat #6-30 for the passenger side. ***





31. Now that both sides are done you can reattach the swaybar endlinks on each side. These do NOT need to be extremely tight and I use my Ryobi electric impact to avoid over-torquing the nut. Don't hammer these or over-tighten them!
Swaybar Endlink Nut Torque: 34 ft-lb




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