Quote:
Originally Posted by Laika
Just now watching the video. Very informative. I expected this to be quite in depth but this is a step or two higher than what I expected.
"according to the manual, you don't want to fuck this step up". I couldn't stop laughing at this for some reason. People should watch this for at least for entertainment value even if they never plan to replace the seals themselves.
Edit: Just finished, I never even considered an improper installation from the factory. Obviously this must be an automated process which would lead one to wonder what percentage of direct injectors are built/sealed correctly.
Also, as for the bevel, my instinct would tell me that a bevel that is made with small tolerances with respect to the seal, would be beneficial in keeping the seal in place, no? The video contradicts this and I'm sure my thinking is likely to be wrong since I don't know the second thing about DI and I only play an engineer on tv.
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It's all a guess, we don't have access to engineering with this car to get straight answers. But as said in the video, these injectors are different in design from other DI out there. They must have beveled the edge assuming it was better for the seal to move up instead of blowing into a fixed edge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by track_warrior
Injector #3 this time last time it was #2 that caused the engine to die. Im guessing the seals were worn and since they did not replace them last time they finally failed. I got the code during a WOT for merging on to a highway from 4000-5000 rpms but really no symptoms other than a misfire and air & fuel ratio imbalance code, my new engine is not even broken in how sad.
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Id you actually had a failed seal and burned injector, replacing all seals and failed injectors would make sense. The cylinder with the failed injector should also have the plug and coil replaced. When the seal fails fuel spray or sratification could easily change and ruin plug. The increased heat/misfire would also destroy the plug and heat up the coil.
If they they did not completely address all of this then chances are that's why you had the second failure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayau
First of all, thanks for taking the time to do this.
Were you experiencing DI issues and decided to replace the injectors, or was this just something you wanted to do?
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I had a loud pop sound under engine load and some very odd hesitation when the engine was running on DI injectors only.
Given the fact I am running FI, and no one has done any video or threads on pulling them it was dual purpose for me along with learning more about the car.
In the end I think it was spark advance or issues with the Perrin tune that may have caused the backfire sound in the intake not the seals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRZnut
Would be great to know what makes DI's 1/2/3 different, and if the DI seal failures are specific to 1, 2, or 3. Anyone know?
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Each number represents a different stratified flow. Which means the way the injector sprays fuel into a layered mist. It is extraordinarily complicated. Since the plugs sit right next to the injector tip the fuel mist when ignited must swirl in a specific way as to avoid damage to the plugs.
The only way to test the difference is to buy all three and send them to a lab or use a machine like this to test flow difference.
Like in this test at 5 Minutes:
[ame]http://youtu.be/Zeooiins5WQ?t=4m59s[/ame]
And
[ame]http://youtu.be/Zeooiins5WQ?t=6m37s[/ame]
The differences I suspect are associate with the block casting. Variations in cylinder, injector ports and even possibly the variance in plug angle may dictate the need for differently designed injectors spray patterns.
Hence 1, 2 and 3.
Alternate reasons could be DI ECU differences, which would require different injectors. That is a stretch though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo
There is no way to tell what's number injectors you have without pulling them? It's not vin specific? Did you ask Toyota about that?
Very nice video btw. Very informative.
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I asked 3 different dealers, they all said the same thing, pull them.
On a out of warranty or private shop situation this will be the only solution anyway.
Again this is what blows about cars like this. Japanese companies are absolutely secretive about this type of information and even more secretive about not disclosing problems. Which is why there will always be a silent roll out one day of a revised part or TSB.
I will never get a phone call answering my questions, and there will never be a corporate presence on these forums.