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Old 07-10-2019, 01:20 PM   #254
Pure Automotive
 
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7/10/19 Update:

I held in my hands, yesterday, a fully welded up prototype version of the K swap oil pan. The next step is scanning it into CAD and ordering the aluminum to be cut. After I have a complete one, we will work on baffling and once that is complete we will start a pre-ordering process and put them into production. Estimated timeline, 1 month.

Here is all the info on the pans.

-We measured its capacity. It looks like it will hold just over 5 quarts (factory spec) and will not hang below the subframe level.

-It will clear the stock subframe completely without modification with our mounts

-It will be built from sheet aluminum that has been cut with a water jet and hand tig welded to perfection. It will use the stock oil drain plug thread pitch, the stock engine side flange pattern, and fit any K series engine.

-It will have baffles that will reduce sloshing and starvation for both front and rear. These baffles will be based around an RSX Type S oil pump. This pump is the best for high RPM and is much smaller than the TSX picktup assembly.

RSX Type S looks like this:



The stock TSX pump looks like this:



You can see why we think the RSX pump is better!

So while we are on the subject, here is my current swap guide that I'm putting out there for the parts we will have available:

1. Order a K24A2 engine with low miles. We have gotten 2 from 2006 Acura TSX, these are 10.5:1 compression. CRV are K24A1 and are 9.6:1 if you want to do boost later maybe or just get a good deal. K24A4 is Honda Element 9.7:1, K24A8 is Honda Accord 9.7:1, and theres many more. Here's a good guide on Hybrid Racing: https://www.hybrid-racing.com/blogs/...ne-build-guide

2. Replace the timing chain, timing chain guides, and oil pump with the RSX Type S pump. While you're at it, do the valve cover gasket and anything else that looks sketchy or oily.

3. You're going to need a different intake manifold. There are 2 options, either get an adapter plate and do an S2000 intake manifold. Or just get a Skunk2 Manifold and flip the plenum around. I would do the Skunk manifold because its not too much more money and its a nicer piece.

They come like this:



But then you can remove the plenum and flip it to face forward like this:



We sell them on SwapYour86.com here: https://www.pureautomotiveperformanc...take-manifold/

Using this plenum requires a different water pump setup. I've browsed alot of different options and so far the easiest one is this one:



This is an all in one, belt routing, alternator mounting, PS deleting solution.

This setup is for Non - AC, and for now, to 100% honest, I don't plan to figure out an AC setup until we get the rest of the swap parts done. It is 100% possible, but for now I'm taking the path of least resistance.

I haven't gotten this far yet, but I also think you need one of these: http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/K24-...ter_p_480.html in order to run that manifold easily.

The last thing to address is the water housing on the back of the head. The factory one is too close to the firewall, so you'll need one of these:
https://tractuff.com/products/tractu...ive-k-swap-rbb

This seems to be the preferred method of routing all the coolant hoses for RWD.



I think I'm going to tinker with one of these to see if its the best solution for the cooling system, looks promising and would prevent having to make a custom radiator fill neck into the coolant hoses. I'm skeptical of clearance for the clutch master cylinder though.

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Honda's are great because there's already sooo many good parts out there for this stuff!



Sorry for the information dump, but I think this is vital information that people need to know going into the swap, things like this are going to make the swap so easy compared to any other we've ever done before.

As always, thanks for your patience, and I hope I've been helpful to you!

-Brady
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