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jdubious · 08-08-2014, 08:41 PM

I spent much of my free time this week reading this thread.....whew!

Anyways, I don't really have the funds for expensive parts right now but am interested in adjusting camber on my stock suspension. I saw the topic of the Whiteline rear adjuster kit come up a few times but it seemed to almost be avoided by the experts. I don't think installing them will be a problem for me but after studying the pdf I have questions about the design(no opinions needed)

Does the longer adjuster bolt bottom out inside the essentric tube or does is jam against the short bolt when adjusting? The instructions say the front and rear bushings must be adjusted together(aimed in the same direction) but with everything installed you cant see them. Therefore you will have to judge strictly by the position of the control arm relative to the subframe whether or not they are aimed the same. Here is where it gets fun....since the adjuster bolts face each other and can only be rotated clockwise, when you get one about where you think you want it the other can not simply be turned to match. You will have to go a complete rotation in the opposite direction until it comes around, by then you realize thats not quite right and the process starts again. If the adjuster bolt does in fact bottom out inside the tube you could at least mark the bolt to indicate the exact direction the cam is pointing....I believe this would help a great deal. If the adjuster bottoms out against the short bolt....it might be a deal breaker for me.

Also, slotting the front struts appears to be difficult to do on the alignment rack. If done with the wheels off what would be a good amount of material to remove? I figure adjustments between OEM and -2.5 would be plenty, if thats even possible...idk. It appears at some point the knuckle is just going to hit the strut, idk where that would put the camber. I dont want to remove any more material than necessary but then again....I don't want to be back and forth from the shop to the alignment rack.

Maybe slotting the struts on the alignment rack ain't so bad???

OH!! BTW.....you guys are doing a great service for this community! It took me all this time to find this thread....There must be many others who need it but still don't know.

Edit- wow, i just read this PDF http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro_...ges/3100IS.pdf It says to use a torch to remove the old rubber mounts..PU

08-08-2014, 08:41 PM	#1839
jdubious Member Join Date: May 2013 Drives: 13 Scion FR-S Location: Texas Posts: 89 Thanks: 44 Thanked 20 Times in 19 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I spent much of my free time this week reading this thread.....whew! Anyways, I don't really have the funds for expensive parts right now but am interested in adjusting camber on my stock suspension. I saw the topic of the Whiteline rear adjuster kit come up a few times but it seemed to almost be avoided by the experts. I don't think installing them will be a problem for me but after studying the pdf I have questions about the design(no opinions needed) Does the longer adjuster bolt bottom out inside the essentric tube or does is jam against the short bolt when adjusting? The instructions say the front and rear bushings must be adjusted together(aimed in the same direction) but with everything installed you cant see them. Therefore you will have to judge strictly by the position of the control arm relative to the subframe whether or not they are aimed the same. Here is where it gets fun....since the adjuster bolts face each other and can only be rotated clockwise, when you get one about where you think you want it the other can not simply be turned to match. You will have to go a complete rotation in the opposite direction until it comes around, by then you realize thats not quite right and the process starts again. If the adjuster bolt does in fact bottom out inside the tube you could at least mark the bolt to indicate the exact direction the cam is pointing....I believe this would help a great deal. If the adjuster bottoms out against the short bolt....it might be a deal breaker for me. Also, slotting the front struts appears to be difficult to do on the alignment rack. If done with the wheels off what would be a good amount of material to remove? I figure adjustments between OEM and -2.5 would be plenty, if thats even possible...idk. It appears at some point the knuckle is just going to hit the strut, idk where that would put the camber. I dont want to remove any more material than necessary but then again....I don't want to be back and forth from the shop to the alignment rack. Maybe slotting the struts on the alignment rack ain't so bad??? OH!! BTW.....you guys are doing a great service for this community! It took me all this time to find this thread....There must be many others who need it but still don't know. Edit- wow, i just read this PDF http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro_...ges/3100IS.pdf It says to use a torch to remove the old rubber mounts..PU Last edited by jdubious; 08-12-2014 at 08:31 AM.