[ck-GT86]

Advisory: I do not condone the removal of your airbag, this is strictly by choice and your preference. Keep the safety police out of this thread, this serves solely for information purposes. ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY WHEN YOU TOUCH ANY MAJOR ELECTRONICS IN YOUR CAR – DON'T BE LAZY.
That being said…Here’s how to make your own resistor for your airbag in the case you only received one, like I did from Works Bell.

Why:
Not sure the reason behind this, but it seems like Works Bell no longer provides an additional resistor for their hubs. I purchased the WB540 standard size and only got 1. Seems like a common issue with a quick search through the Interwebs.

Parts Required:
- Nite 2W 2.2Ohm (2W2D2) resistor
- Crimp-type Pin 0.1” Male (PCN-PM1-10) – You can use any pin really that will plug into the airbag harness
- Copper wire: stranded or solid

Tools (suggested, not required)
- Soldering iron
- Very fine electrical rosin core solder
- Heatgun with heat shrink
- Electrical tape
- Wire stripper

1. Strip half an inch off the end of the copper wire. You can use stranded or solid for this application, as long as the gauge is somewhere above 18. I kept the wire on the roll during the entire process, you can size it to whatever size you want. Don’t make the wiring too long though, remember the resistor has to bend and fit into the hub.



2. I used “Helper Hands” to keep the wire in place on one arm, took a pin and held it in place on the other arm. Helper Hands are awesome for those of you that solder often. Feed the wire through the wire guides on the pin. Solder the wire and the pin together

3. Once dry, you have the option to feed some heatshrink over the soldered wiring. If not, make sure you wrap it up in electrical tape.



4. If you didn’t cut the other end of the wire, go ahead and do so now. I used about 2 inches of wiring for each wire, somewhere between there and 1.5” should be okay. Strip the end.


5. If you want to shrink wrap this end too, cut a piece and feed it onto the wire or the resistor. I heat shrunk the entire resistor, so I fed a larger piece over and left it alone until I was ready to blast it with heat.


6. Solder the bare wire to the resisitor. You can trim the resistor down if you’d like, it didn’t dawn on me that I could do this until after since the final piece is a bit big.

7. Slip over the heatstrink once the wires cool down.


8. Repeat the same process for the other side: strip, feed, solder, heatshrink, cut, strip, heatshrink, solder

9. After all is done, take out your heatgun or blowdryer and give the resistor some heat.

10. Note: I strongly advise using heatshrink when you’re doing anything electrical. Electrical tape will work, but make sure you make the joints tight so the tape won’t come apart. Not only will it keep the wires together, but it also looks clean in the end.

11. Since your battery is disconnected, remove the horn or wheel off of your hub.


12. Like the other resistor, plug this one in. My homemade resistor went to the black airbag connector, and the one provided from Works Bell went to the red connector. The plugs are omnidirectional by the way, you can plug them in either end.



13. Secure the resistors to the airbag connections with additional electrical tape.



14. Plug everything back in. NO MORE AIRBAG LIGHT!

Total cost:

$8 and change from Fry’s for the parts.



.ck