View Single Post
Old 10-25-2012, 07:13 PM   #10
DrifterX
Super Special Awesome GO!
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: 2013 FR-S Ultramarine M/T
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 54
Thanks: 6
Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I read a great explanation of this just a few days ago.

Basically, Boost + Compression = Effective compression ratio.

When lowering or raising compression, you will see around a 3% loss or gain in power for about 1 compression ratio. This isn't perfect math, but it's simply.

When raising boost, you tend to see about a 3% per 2 psi.

If you take a motor and lower its compression from say, 12.5:1 to 10.5:1 giving it approximately a 6% loss in power. Now let's say we add 10 psi, giving it an approximate 15% increase. We've netted an overall change of 9%.

Yet our effective compression ratio is actually lower. (The math for effective compression ratio is... (boost/14.7) *2) + Actual compression ratio

So 10/14.7 = .68 *2 = 1.36 + 10.5 = 11.86. Which means you can actually boost more.

The reason for all this is, even though you are compressing it, N/A does not allow for more air than atmospheric, (Also why cars have less power at higher altitudes) whereas a turbo will cram air in there causing it to have more oxygen per square inch, or more fuel to burn with the gasoline.

I hope this makes sense.

Oh and as for why to not lower your compression ratio. If you have a low compression ratio, your non boosted power is substantially less. (Like you have lost that 6% earlier, but with no gain) so you tend to notice lag more and it is less effective for racing which requires you dip lower into RPM ranges. (I.E. road courses etc.)
DrifterX is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to DrifterX For This Useful Post:
AreteAuto (12-16-2015), Baldoak (05-05-2016), Creole (09-30-2014), Harvie1031 (04-02-2016), shiro (11-14-2013), usptwins (10-25-2012)